94-95 cobras 1/4 mile times

94mustangcobra · Sep 30, 2006

hey what's up, hopefully my sig saved so i don't have to retype my mods but what kind of 1/4 times are the snakes posting. my best time with chrome rims all around fronts measuring 17x9 245/45/zr17 and rears 17x10.5 275/40/zr17 sumitomo all around 14.6@95 in south GA, at SGMP. mind you that was a full tank of gas with spare tire in trunk and my stereo of 2 subs and a 600w amp plus a full bottle. with the spray i ran a 13.9@100 even. with my BFG DRs 235/60/r15 on v-6 rims i ran a 13.4@103 w/ bottle and 14.0@98 with the motor. fuel pressure is at 50 psi and timing is 10 degrees. does this sound right or sound too slow for the combo. block has 130K on it and no rebuild yet. thoughts??

blksn955.o · Sep 30, 2006

sounds alittle soft to me?

with stock gt40 heads off a 95 cobra a TFS1 cam and a ported stock gt lower, 3.73's, pullies, K&N, 14*, 24#inj, and a 73mmC&L (to get the 24's to somewhat work). untuned ran a 13.5 @102 with a bad 2.3-ish 60ft. the only time I had that combo at the track.

ON the stock gt longblock and pullies, gears, K&N, 14*'s I ran a 14.3 and with a 125 shot (wet) I ran a 13.1 @ 107 on street tires both times.

Redsnk95 · Sep 30, 2006

I ran 13.40s with the same type of mods on motor on 17" nittos, why is your fuel pressure so high?

Bosko5.0 · Sep 30, 2006

well you were fully loaded

Redsnk95 · Sep 30, 2006

yea but not enough for the car to be off over half a second....

blksn955.o · Sep 30, 2006

FWIW every pass so far at the track has been full weight for myself and with 3/4 to a full tank.

94mustangcobra · Sep 30, 2006

well i ran it at 45 psi and it would sputter a little on the launch with the bottle, so i pumped it up and it cleaned it up. the rims i know are extremely heavy, but the car was never a powerhouse, i'm sure my driving could be better but i consistantly trap 95 to 96 mph on the motor. also i shift around 5800.

blksn955.o · Sep 30, 2006

There should be no need to turn up the FP, the n2o should bump it for when the n2o is on, and your stock times will be effected if its too high.

Stock is 39 (remember set it to this with the vac. OFF the regulator).

Also I would play around with shifting at several diff. rpms and see what happens. I know the cobra has better heads but even then the cam is softer and your prob. not making much past the 5,300-5,500 mark...maybe roll the shift point down a few hundred rpm to see if your mph goes up. I would think you could pull off a 100-101 with not too much trouble factory-ish. Also if you have not set your timing N/A set it to 14*, and for best results on bottle and a 125 try 10*.

I liked the MSD digital6+ as I could run 14* N/A and when the bottle master "on" switch was on it activated the built in retard setting timeing down to 9-10*.

Jackie Chan · Sep 30, 2006

that sucks

Daniel50 · Oct 1, 2006

did you say fuell pressure at 50psi?! mine is at 35psi lol

gcomfx.com · Oct 2, 2006

blksn955.o said:
There should be no need to turn up the FP, the n2o should bump it for when the n2o is on, and your stock times will be effected if its too high.

Not in my experience. Depends on your M/A setup and injector sizes, plus all the devices in play that effect spark (tuning, coil, plugs, gap, timing, etc). For my car I have to add FP on the dry shot. The 125 set up is just out of my vaccum range for the stock computer to bump. 100 shot it was okay...

I run aprox. 35 psi N/A and 43psi when using the 125 dry shot.

I also can not leave the car at 43 psi for N/A runs, or it runs like poo. The car will even trigger the CEL light - codes showing a rich condition in both left and right banks.

blksn955.o · Oct 2, 2006

The N.O.S. 5115 kits work just fine, the vac. tee deal bumps press. just fine. Now small pump issues not being able to hold the press. that high may be another, but I have seen several 125 5115 kits work just fine on the stocker.

The eec computer does not bump (unless your talking about the zex computer thing-y) the FP is "fooling" the inj. with the elevated press.

zex I have never worked with nore seen work in real life. Just NX-wet, TNT-didnt like, N.O.S.-dry, and compucar-wet. wet and dry never changed the fuel press on anything from 100-150shot. We actually played around with one buddies car bumping the FP alittle and only lost ground on the bottle or n/a.

94mustangcobra · Oct 2, 2006

well i tuned it to see if it would run, put 14 degrees base timing in it, and dropped FP down to 39 psi with vacuum disconnected. it ran like ****, wouldn't idle, took it for a drive, punched it in 1st gear and it was like driving my wife's sentra. i took the FP to about 43-44 psi and it pulled hard but the timing was up so i don't know if the FP had anything to do with it. mind you i was running N/A all night.

blksn955.o · Oct 2, 2006

something is wrong if it will only run well at 44psi and not 39.

gcomfx.com · Oct 3, 2006

blksn955.o said:
The N.O.S. 5115 kits work just fine, the vac. tee deal bumps press. just fine. Now small pump issues not being able to hold the press. that high may be another, but I have seen several 125 5115 kits work just fine on the stocker.

The eec computer does not bump (unless your talking about the zex computer thing-y) the FP is "fooling" the inj. with the elevated press.

zex I have never worked with nore seen work in real life. Just NX-wet, TNT-didnt like, N.O.S.-dry, and compucar-wet. wet and dry never changed the fuel press on anything from 100-150shot. We actually played around with one buddies car bumping the FP alittle and only lost ground on the bottle or n/a.

The point was, we ALL have different combos of mods. I started with a cheap arse FP regulator. Looked just like the stock one except you could turn a screw in the vacuum connector. We found out I was running dangerously lean on the dyno. We maxed out that FP regulator and it didn't help one bit. Still VERY lean.

I now have a Kirban.... but have yet to dyno the car with it. Perhaps I'm just USED to bumping the fuel pressure now and spraying the 125 shot because of a shoddy FP regulator. Not really sure, I tend to play it safe. I don't see myself getting an opportunity to run the car again before I tear it down. But we'll see. If I do, I'll try it right quick in 3rd without moving the FP and see if it detonates.

Either way.... the components involved WITH the nitrous kit, can play a huge factor. All the internet advice in the world might not help this guy.... he really needs to get it on a Wideband dyno.

94mustangcobra · Oct 3, 2006

yeah i know, haven't had the time or the money, just figured there's plenty of people out there with my setup, and i'd get good advice from them who've been down that road.

gcomfx.com · Oct 3, 2006

My car HATES timing..... I mean it HATES it. My car will detonate and ping with 14* of timing. I have colder plugs, .035 gapped, and run premium gas when I tried the timing that high. And that's running it N/A.

I currently am sitting on 7-8* of timing.... I ran 6* for years to keep it from detonating on the bottle.

I would try dropping the timing down to see if you can lower your FP.

Also, remember to disconnect the battery after you do it. It'll help the computer relearn the changes.

94mustangcobra · Oct 3, 2006

my car loves timing and fuel pressure too, in tank i'm running a bbk 255lph, my ignition system is stock and i'm running AR 94 spark plugs gapped at .035, ford racing 9mm wires, i always run 93 in my tank too. with the bottle i run 10 degrees base timing with my FP at 50-55psi with a bottle of NOS octane booster from autozone. haven't had any problems cept i'm slow.

now again my longblock has 130K miles on it, and it's stock 9.2:1 compression, well as close to stock compression as it can be with 130K on it, done tests and they are all within 10% or less range no one being way off.

gcomfx.com · Oct 3, 2006

My compression is low.... another reason it comes out of the car in the next month or two.

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