94 Gt Acts Like It Wants To Shut Down.

awill94gt

Active User
Feb 21, 2017
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electrically that is. It'll start up, starter currently is bad, and sometimes, only once has it shut off so far, will it die down , like the headlights will dim, the dash and lighting will dim, the tachometer will obviously drop.
Alt. tested good, as did battery.
Maybe ignition coil ? Stang is auto with about 90xxxx miles on it 5.0 v8 vert any idea.s
 
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Now we can get the attention of some world renowned (not really, but they are pretty smart) motorheads, but let me ask a few questions, more info=better help.
When you tested the alt was it on the car and was it load tested?
Was the battery tested?
The first thing I would do, if the battery and alt checked good, would clean and inspect the battery cables, check grounds and wiring connections to alt.
I suspect it to be an alt/battery problem, I believe there is a constant control module(?) on 94-5 models but I'm not familiar with those.
Just a thought, do you have an aftermarket stereo/amp installed?
 
Alt was tested on the car with load and battery was as well. Looking to clean connections today . control mod is on this particular stang as well. No after marker stereo/amp installed yet.,no
 
Do the simple stuff first...

Clean the battery posts and block grounds.
Make sure that all the ground places are clean and shiny bare metal: no paint, no corrosion.

The main power ground is from engine block to battery: it is the power ground for the starter & alternator.

The picture shows the common ground point for the battery , computer, & extra 3G alternator ground wire as described above in paragraph 2. A screwdriver points to the bolt that is the common ground point.

The battery common ground is a 10 gauge pigtail with the computer ground attached to it.
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
ground.jpg



View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSkbTmtBZUc



The battery posts and inside of the battery post terminals should be scraped clean with a knife or battery post cleaner tool. This little trick will fix a surprising number of no start problems.

The clamp on with 2 bolts battery terminal ends are a known problem causer. Any place you see green on a copper wire is corrosion. Corrosion gets in the clamped joint and works its way up the wire under the insulation. Corroded connections do not conduct electricity well. Avoid them like the plague...

The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. The clue to a bad ground here is that the temp gauge goes up as you add electrical load such as heater, lights and A/C.

Any car that has a 3G or high output current alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects. The 3G has a 130 amp capacity, so you wire the power side with 4 gauge wire. It stands to reason that the ground side handles just as much current, so it needs to be 4 gauge too.
 

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