While using the Equus Ford OBD I code reader, after preforming the KOEO test and passing then preforming the KOER test I'm getting codes 33 ( EGR valve not opening properly (just replaced it today) and still getting that code why? Code 34 which is the same as 33, code 44 (thermactor air system fault) can you explain this in more detail for me? And code 94 (air diverter solenoid circuit fault) replacing tomorrow. I've checked my vacuum tube's and replaced the ones with obvious cracks which was only one that was going from the air diverter tree to the top of the EGR valve, the rest of the smog system looks fine to me and I don't hear any hissing (I also had to replace the smog pump recently because it broke). Also my salt and pepper 10 pin connectors looked to have some white semi liquid "grease" on only some of the pins, is that dielectric compound to prevent any electrical shorting? Or is that some kind of corrosion that I need to clean off? What can I clean the pins off with besides DEOXIT. Can I use some Isopropyl Alcohol I got lying around?
If all else fails I would want to do a smog system delete, would this "fix" my issue? Can I delete the EGR valve as well? What about the TAB/TAD solenoid? I've seen that if I go this route I have to make sure that I have aftermarket catalytic converter exhausts otherwise there is some issue with the cats not working properly
So I would only need the mid-pipes correct? How do I go about making sure I get the right pipes if I go this route? Guy in the link said the only aftermarket pipes he knows of that work with the smog system delete is the Magnaflow spun-metallic cats. I would also get the idler pulley to replace the air pump to keep the stock belt length. also
I'm not concerned with losing or gaining HP I just want the damn thing to run and not die on me anymore its my only car and my daily. Also Is this really the cause of me dying while driving in the heat??? The EGR valve not functioning or some vacuum solenoid not getting vacuum really the culprit for me dying on the side of the road just seems ludicrous to me.
Now with all of that and to the best of my ability trying to following the thread "help me create the surging idle checklist" (even though my idle wont surge it will just fall to 0 over 3-5 seconds it doesn't wander up and down) thread and throwing almost enough parts at this issue to basically replace most of the car itself why am I still dying while driving at completely sporadic intervals only in the heat I could be driving in almost any condition and if it's hot outside it's almost a guarantee the car will die a couple of examples are dying while driving 75 miles an hour without changing the speed, and then driving for a 100 miles in the heat for it to die when I come to a stoplight. Recently died after going up a large hill and once I reached the downhill part and the engine died without me even realizing until I tried turning the wheel and realizing I lost power steering looking at my dash to me my speedometer and rpm's say 0's. When the engine dies and I pull off on the side of the road if I wait 30 min 9 out of 10 times I can start the engine and drive another 50 miles to home. If I don't wait long enough the engine will most likely crank once and might start but wont be able to stay running and die again. Sometimes when I know its about to die the rpms will start to go just fall and no matter how much gas I give it it will end up dying. It will so far only die on longer road trips more then an hour, I can drive around town making stops or to work just fine with no indicators of it dying at all.
So I would only need the mid-pipes correct? How do I go about making sure I get the right pipes if I go this route? Guy in the link said the only aftermarket pipes he knows of that work with the smog system delete is the Magnaflow spun-metallic cats. I would also get the idler pulley to replace the air pump to keep the stock belt length. also
Distributor
MAF
Throttle body
TPS
EGR Valve
EGR position sensor
O2 sensors
Spark plugs, gaped properly
Spark plug wires
Ignition coil
IAC
Tfi
Smog pump
A/c compressor
Radiator
Alternator
Battery
fuel filter
These items below are not 100% sure but ive been told they were replaced
new fuel pump
fuel lines
MAF
Throttle body
TPS
EGR Valve
EGR position sensor
O2 sensors
Spark plugs, gaped properly
Spark plug wires
Ignition coil
IAC
Tfi
Smog pump
A/c compressor
Radiator
Alternator
Battery
fuel filter
These items below are not 100% sure but ive been told they were replaced
new fuel pump
fuel lines
Last edited:
)
, but i know it will come back, so i pulled the vacuum line off...
