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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

95 GT long cranks/rough

  • Thread starter Thread starter psychorugby
  • Start date Start date Apr 16, 2012
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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,303
1,648
214
Acworth, GA
Oct 9, 2012
#21
  • Oct 9, 2012
  • #21
Your replacing quality parts with Chinese junk. You are making more problems down the road.

Kurt
 
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psychorugby

Active Member
Sep 28, 2011
128
3
29
Tampa, FL
Oct 9, 2012
#22
  • Oct 9, 2012
  • #22
revhead347 said:
Your replacing quality parts with Chinese junk. You are making more problems down the road.

Kurt
Click to expand...

That's why I said for aesthetic reasons on the MSD coil. I have the cap and rotor already, the car is red, and I was going for a red/polished theme under the hood. I will probably still get the Performance Distributor Screamin Demon coil and TFI module.
 

BradleyMustang3

Member
Jun 4, 2011
148
0
17
New York
Oct 9, 2012
#23
  • Oct 9, 2012
  • #23
yea a performance tfi helps a bit not a lot but its slightly noticeable and does look a lot nicer. they last longer also because theyre less likely to short out due to heat. like i said make sure you use the thermal compound on the back side. after that you should be fine. if not let check your pip in the distributor if you havnt already
 
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psychorugby

Active Member
Sep 28, 2011
128
3
29
Tampa, FL
Oct 9, 2012
#24
  • Oct 9, 2012
  • #24
BradleyMustang3 said:
yea a performance tfi helps a bit not a lot but its slightly noticeable and does look a lot nicer. they last longer also because theyre less likely to short out due to heat. like i said make sure you use the thermal compound on the back side. after that you should be fine. if not let check your pip in the distributor if you havnt already
Click to expand...

The distributor is new. Literally, the only things I have not replaced are the TFI, wires, coil, and injectors (if you want to go that far). I will try timing with a warm motor this weekend, replacing the SPOUT connector with the motor running. I will say the car runs like never before, the cold starts are just annoying.
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
1,944
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79
Vernon BC
Oct 9, 2012
#25
  • Oct 9, 2012
  • #25
Timing the engine warm is a must. With the spout out engine speed won't matter as the PCM can't affect the timing but shouldn't be necessary with a warm engine. TPS volts with the throttle closed on the EEC-IV PCM can be between .65v - 1.25. The adaptive strategy will allow the PCM to learn the idle volts between these limits. However, a mid point of about .95-1.0 volts is the norm for a good TPS. The stock TPS on these cars are not adjustable as they were on the earlier years. Do not play with the idle stop screw as this will affect the TPS voltage and they are factory preset. There is nothing to suggest a problem with the TFI module. An small idle surge is probably due to a slow response from the IAC valve. Could be dirty or just getting old.
 
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psychorugby

Active Member
Sep 28, 2011
128
3
29
Tampa, FL
Oct 10, 2012
#26
  • Oct 10, 2012
  • #26
toyman said:
Timing the engine warm is a must. With the spout out engine speed won't matter as the PCM can't affect the timing but shouldn't be necessary with a warm engine. TPS volts with the throttle closed on the EEC-IV PCM can be between .65v - 1.25. The adaptive strategy will allow the PCM to learn the idle volts between these limits. However, a mid point of about .95-1.0 volts is the norm for a good TPS. The stock TPS on these cars are not adjustable as they were on the earlier years. Do not play with the idle stop screw as this will affect the TPS voltage and they are factory preset. There is nothing to suggest a problem with the TFI module. An small idle surge is probably due to a slow response from the IAC valve. Could be dirty or just getting old.
Click to expand...

I'll give this a shot. Thanks!
 
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psychorugby

Active Member
Sep 28, 2011
128
3
29
Tampa, FL
Oct 15, 2012
#27
  • Oct 15, 2012
  • #27
toyman said:
Timing the engine warm is a must. With the spout out engine speed won't matter as the PCM can't affect the timing but shouldn't be necessary with a warm engine. TPS volts with the throttle closed on the EEC-IV PCM can be between .65v - 1.25. The adaptive strategy will allow the PCM to learn the idle volts between these limits. However, a mid point of about .95-1.0 volts is the norm for a good TPS. The stock TPS on these cars are not adjustable as they were on the earlier years. Do not play with the idle stop screw as this will affect the TPS voltage and they are factory preset. There is nothing to suggest a problem with the TFI module. An small idle surge is probably due to a slow response from the IAC valve. Could be dirty or just getting old.
Click to expand...

I timed the car once it was warm, and everything seems to be good to go. I ended up backing off a degree or two. The only (slight) problem now is when I turn on the A/C, the RPM's drop off for a second and then whenever the thermostat kicks on. This is only at idle though.
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
1,944
54
79
Vernon BC
Oct 15, 2012
#28
  • Oct 15, 2012
  • #28
Any substantial change in engine load such as the A/C cycling on/off will result in a momentary change in rpm. The IAC valve adjusts the air flow to compensate and stabilize the idle.
 
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psychorugby

Active Member
Sep 28, 2011
128
3
29
Tampa, FL
Oct 15, 2012
#29
  • Oct 15, 2012
  • #29
toyman said:
Any substantial change in engine load such as the A/C cycling on/off will result in a momentary change in rpm. The IAC valve adjusts the air flow to compensate and stabilize the idle.
Click to expand...

I guess I never noticed it being this drastic before. Regardless I am excited to have her running again. Now I can install the suspension that is laying in my garage.
 
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