Im having some issues with my 95 GT. It was running, albeit not very well but driveable, and then I noticed the EGR valve was missing one of the two nuts that hold it onto the manifold,. The other nut was loose, so there was a large gap between the valve and the manifold where I presume air would be able to freely enter the intake. I removed the valve and cleaned it, and checked the diaphragm before reinstalling it with new hardware so it makes a complete seal with the manifold. However after this, the car cant hold and idle for the life of it. It will run for 30 seconds or so after a cold start, then the rpms will start to dip and then overcompensate until it eventually cant catch itself in time and stalls unless I give it some gas. I have recently replaced a lot of sensors before this problem even started, so I'm running out of ideas.
What has been recently replaced:
New O2 Sensors
New MAF Sensor
Both temp sensors/sender
ACT sensor cleaned
EGR valve cleaned
New fuel pump
New fuel filter
Air Filter cleaned
I was able to pull codes both with the engine off and with it on (it was able to keep alive during the self test) and got a few EGR related codes as well as codes 314 and 311 (Secondary Air injection system banks 1&2 inop during KOER test) and code 177 (heated o2 Sensors bank 2 - mixture rich). Given that I have already replaced my O2 and MAF sensors, could this be a fuel pressure issue where the fuel pressure is too high and the only reason it wasn't doing this before I fixed my EGR valve was because unmetered air was being freely drawn in? I also just patched the vacuum lines that ran to the EGR valve and the two that ran to the smog pump output tube. Weirdly enough I tried seeing what the engine would do if I stuck the EGR valve open so I just bypassed the EGR regulator so that line gets a constant vacuum, and it is able to idle with the EGR valve open. Isn't that backwards? From what I've read the only way an EGR valve should be able to stall an engine is by being stuck OPEN not stuck closed.
I know that was a long post but if anyone read through it all and has any suggestions I would be very grateful. Im kinda a loss here.
What has been recently replaced:
New O2 Sensors
New MAF Sensor
Both temp sensors/sender
ACT sensor cleaned
EGR valve cleaned
New fuel pump
New fuel filter
Air Filter cleaned
I was able to pull codes both with the engine off and with it on (it was able to keep alive during the self test) and got a few EGR related codes as well as codes 314 and 311 (Secondary Air injection system banks 1&2 inop during KOER test) and code 177 (heated o2 Sensors bank 2 - mixture rich). Given that I have already replaced my O2 and MAF sensors, could this be a fuel pressure issue where the fuel pressure is too high and the only reason it wasn't doing this before I fixed my EGR valve was because unmetered air was being freely drawn in? I also just patched the vacuum lines that ran to the EGR valve and the two that ran to the smog pump output tube. Weirdly enough I tried seeing what the engine would do if I stuck the EGR valve open so I just bypassed the EGR regulator so that line gets a constant vacuum, and it is able to idle with the EGR valve open. Isn't that backwards? From what I've read the only way an EGR valve should be able to stall an engine is by being stuck OPEN not stuck closed.
I know that was a long post but if anyone read through it all and has any suggestions I would be very grateful. Im kinda a loss here.