95 idles is very low and rough?????

do a search about IAC....also have you taken off your MAF .......I only say this because I had the same problem...MAF was not "clocking" as I was told...and once adjusted it got better....I know you said you replaced TPS but do a search here as well on checking it....I'm sure more knowledgeable peeps will chime in..
Will....BTW..welcome to Stangnet

You should first attempt to set your idle mechanically...

Do this:
http://www.muscularmustangs.com/idlereset.php

If you are still having problems after following these procedures, report back.

Good advice above. Is it a stick or auto? If an auto, dont go crazy adjusting the idle too high.

Take detailed notes of idle adjustments you make so you can get back to where you started.

Good luck.

same thing is happening to me after i did my intake manifold swap, and i cant get it back to how it was. I am just happy now that it doesnt stall anymore on me.

Many things can cause bad idle. The first thing you should always check is the charging system because a bad battery or alternator can throw off the voltage to all sensors like TPS or MAF or power to ignition. After that, check for vacuum leaks which cause a rough idle. You may not hear the famous whistle, but spray all fittings, hoses and intake down with brake clean and look for a raised idle or unstumbling effect.
Also, how many miles are on the car? Your wires may look good but that doesnt mean anything. If the plug wires still have numbers on them then chances are they are original and if you have anything over 75k miles then they probably should be changed. Engine sensors dont usually go bad, and its usually the easiest cheapest thing thats hanging you up. I'm ASE at Midas and rough idles are almost always bad plug wires or a vacuum leak. When your TPS is bad you usually get a fluctuating idle, and they are adjustable so you may want to check the voltage on it at idle. It should read as close to 1 volt, like .99 at idle and then on up to like 4.5 at WOT. Test with motor off, ignition on!
Lastly, how about that EGR system. If the valve is clogged or stuck you can get poor performance and rough idle.
Shot in the dark, but is the air filter good?

Here is another mechanical idle setting write up. This has fixed almost all idle problems for the people that have used it.

MECHANICAL IDLE SETTING

'94-'95

Begin with a cold vehicle. The idea here is to get the car to a firm cold idle with enough air bleed capacity left in the idle circuit for IAC adjustment.

The idle stop should be set first. Back out the idle stop screw, away from the bell crank arm, until about 1/2 turn past the point where it no longer makes contact (blade fully closed). Using a 0.010" feeler gauge, tighten until gauge just drags between screw and bell crank arm. Remove feeler gauge. Tighten screw exactly 1 1/2 turns. If the screw is very loose, put a drop of loc-tite or silicone on it, so it doesn't work out of adjustment.

Now remove the connector to the Idle Air Controller (IAC) just on the other side of the throttle body. Start the car and allow vehicle to warm for 2 minutes. Give a small "blip" to let it settle. If it is having a hard time staying running you may have to get an assistant until you can get to the front of the car. Now open or close the air bleed screw (CCW opens) next to the IAC until the car idles at 575 to 600 rpm. For guys with aftermarket cams and an EEC tuner, you might want to idle a bit more briskly, say 650 to 675.

Obviously, this rpm range is by what the car and driver wants...IE, no set idle speed, whatever works for YOU.

Turn off the car. Now count the number of turns clockwise to close on the idle air bleed screw. If it falls between 1/2 and 2, it's okay, now reverse it out the same number of turns. Log the number somewhere in case you need it for the future. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.

If the air bleed screw is above 2 turns, it's a good idea to tighten the idle stop screw another 1/2 turn, and then repeat the idle setting. If it is below 1/2 turn, then loosen the idle stop screw by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and repeat the idle setting. Be sure to put another drop of silicone RTV on the stop screw if it was disturbed. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.