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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

95 intermittent no start

  • Thread starter Thread starter woody5484
  • Start date Start date Jun 13, 2011
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woody5484

New Member
Jun 13, 2011
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Jun 13, 2011
#1
  • Jun 13, 2011
  • #1
Hey guys first post here.

I've been charged with fixing a 95 GT with a reoccurring no start issue. Sometimes the car will fire right up and run all day, other times it just cranks and cranks with no fire. First thought was the fuel pump so replaced that (at 15 years it was time) Problem still there. Then we moved to the CCRM, tested it with the voltmeter and it didn't hold up so replaced that. Problem still there. Can hear the relay click, can hear the pump prime, still no fire. Now if I wait the pump will occasionally prime a second time, then the car will fire. Any ideas on this?

Thanks for the help.

P.S. been searching for half the day here and can't really find a similar issue thats been posted about.
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
1,944
54
79
Vernon BC
Jun 14, 2011
#2
  • Jun 14, 2011
  • #2
Three things come to mind. Fuel filter clogged, failing PIP sensor and/or the TFI (ignition module).
I would check the stored fault codes. See this link http://*******.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=b6fdf553ada596787d7329c8a539da3a&topic=2471.msg23982#msg23982
 
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woody5484

New Member
Jun 13, 2011
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Jun 15, 2011
#3
  • Jun 15, 2011
  • #3
Where is the pip sensor? That was gonna be my next guess because it seems like there is a pressure issue. Kind of like the pressure is bleeding off the fuel rail or isn't building high enough in the first place. For sure gonna change filters but have a feeling thats not it because when i do get it to run it doesn't hesitate one bit, runs like a top.
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
1,944
54
79
Vernon BC
Jun 15, 2011
#4
  • Jun 15, 2011
  • #4
The PIP (Hall effect sensor) is part of the distributor assembly. While the part isn't expensive it's fairly difficult to replace as the distributor needs to be removed (easy) and the gear pressed off (hard). Most will just get a replacement.
 
R

redsn95gt

Member
Aug 5, 2010
143
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16
Jun 16, 2011
#5
  • Jun 16, 2011
  • #5
Cost me about $100 with core at pep boys to get a stock rebuilt one. Worked great.
 
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woody5484

New Member
Jun 13, 2011
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Jun 17, 2011
#6
  • Jun 17, 2011
  • #6
Been researching the matter and think a rebuilt one is the way for me. Gonna attempt it this afternoon. Hopefully I don't jack the timing up in the process
 
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woody5484

New Member
Jun 13, 2011
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Jun 17, 2011
#7
  • Jun 17, 2011
  • #7
Got the reman unit and put it in this afternoon. Car starts and runs fine now but, if I stay in the throttle it starts to buck and hesitate. The tranny hesitates to shift as well, was able to get it revved up to about 5500 on test drive. Is this characteristic of just a degree or two off or did I forget something when I changed out the distributor? Don't currently have a timing light but will get one and set the timing on Sunday. What is stock timing something like 10-12 degrees?
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
1,944
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79
Vernon BC
Jun 17, 2011
#8
  • Jun 17, 2011
  • #8
Timing spec is 10*. You should be good to at least 12*. Timing has no bearing on shift issues. The auto will rev limit at about 54-55k by the PCM due to ballooning issues with the stock converter. The shift point at WOT should be below that point unless you have installed a shift kit or someone before you did. If there is a shudder in the up shift especially between 3rd and OD that is most likely a TC issue. See this link to a TSB from Ford.
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/mn12-techinfo/tsb/tsb-98-8-7.pdf
 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member
May 20, 2006
2,051
20
99
J-Ville, FL
Jun 18, 2011
#9
  • Jun 18, 2011
  • #9
woody5484 said:
Got the reman unit and put it in this afternoon. Car starts and runs fine now but, if I stay in the throttle it starts to buck and hesitate. The tranny hesitates to shift as well, was able to get it revved up to about 5500 on test drive. Is this characteristic of just a degree or two off or did I forget something when I changed out the distributor? Don't currently have a timing light but will get one and set the timing on Sunday. What is stock timing something like 10-12 degrees?
Click to expand...

You my friend have the "crappy reman'd dizzy blues". Everything you need to know is contained in this thread: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/839446-cobra-st-t-t-tuters-high-rpm.html#post8456992

I made a believer out of the OP of that thread and will do the same for you as well! Good Luck.
 
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woody5484

New Member
Jun 13, 2011
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0
Jun 18, 2011
#10
  • Jun 18, 2011
  • #10
I dont doubt that I got a defective part right out of the box, wouldn't be the first time. The only thing that chaps my ass is how am I gonna convince the kid behind the counter to give me my hundred bucks back? Like I said I'm gonna put a light to it tomorrow and set the timing exactly where it should be. If that doesn't help then I'll wrestle with the parts store.

By the way car is bone stock, acctually my mothers. I personally have had tabs on it for its entire life. I was thinking the high revs were something to do with the way the engine was stuttering and hesitating. I drive the car pretty hard and it has never reved that high so it obviously got my attention.
 
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woody5484

New Member
Jun 13, 2011
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0
Jun 19, 2011
#11
  • Jun 19, 2011
  • #11
Started by setting the timing this morning to 10* slightly better but still not right. Gonna start bumping it up, test driving, and see where it really wants to be at.
 

99FiveOh

15 Year Member
May 20, 2006
2,051
20
99
J-Ville, FL
Jun 19, 2011
#12
  • Jun 19, 2011
  • #12
If the car doesn't run right at 10* you have another issue. No amount of increasing it is going to fix anything. Just a fyi.
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
1,944
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79
Vernon BC
Jun 19, 2011
#13
  • Jun 19, 2011
  • #13
Have you checked the fuel pressure? I didn't see a reference on a quick reread of the posts. KOEO (or vacuum line disconnected from the FPR) should be in the 37-40 psi range and slightly lower KOER.
 
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woody5484

New Member
Jun 13, 2011
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Jun 19, 2011
#14
  • Jun 19, 2011
  • #14
Haven't run codes yet. Played with timing all morning. Set it at 10* with spout out, plugged it back in an the timing jumped up to more than 30* it was off the scale at any rate. Timed it with spout in down to 19* and it seems to like that the most but its still pinging at WOT. We ran the scale from 25 to 19 and it seemed more or less the same just changed the amount of ping. Should I back out even more. 19* seems really low to me.
 
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woody5484

New Member
Jun 13, 2011
8
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Jun 19, 2011
#15
  • Jun 19, 2011
  • #15
Haven't run codes yet. Played with timing all morning. Set it at 10* with spout out, plugged it back in an the timing jumped up to more than 30* it was off the scale at any rate. Timed it with spout in down to 19* and it seems to like that the most but its still pinging at WOT. We ran the scale from 25 to 19 and it seemed more or less the same just changed the amount of ping. Should I back out even more. 19* seems really low to me.
 
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