98 GT died and now will not start

c.moser · Jul 13, 2011

Had my car out for first time in almost 2 weeks last night and now I have a problem. The car is 98 GT and is basically stock except for what's listed in my sig. I got on the highway after about 10 min of driving it. The engine shut off while I was going about 55 mph. I tried to turn the key while I was coasting but it wouldn't start so I pulled off to the side of the road. The car is getting power; all of the accessories work and the battery was replaced about 3 months ago. When I turn the key, the engine will turn over but it won't start. There is no check engine light and all of the gauges read normal. I changed the oil about a week ago but I don't see why that would cause this problem. The oil level is where it should be

Any ideas what this could be? Thanks in advance

I also forgot to mention that the car has some type of aftermarket alarm that the previous owner had installed. I had a problem with it going off for no reason when I bought the car about 9 months ago, but haven't since. I'm thinking this wouldn't cause the problem, because if the alarm was "tripped", the engine would not turn over when you turned the key correct? However the theft light did flash on and off really fast when I tried to start the car (I'm not sure if it always does that, never noticed it before if it does)

wmburns · Jul 13, 2011

The 98 factory PATS system will disable the starter if tripped. This gives a no crank. However, the system is also capable of disabling the fuel and spark. Gives a start followed by quitting.

So, the PATS system is able to shut the motor down.

It seems silly to ignore the flashing theft light as it's trying to tell you something.

Your situation is more complex because an aftermarket alarm system can do more than the factory system.

Try reseting by unlocking the driver's door with the key or unlocking with the FOB.

As for the blinking light, try this. Turn the key on but do not crank. The theft light should go out after a 3 second "prove out". If not, STOP and find out why.

c.moser · Jul 13, 2011

Thanks for the info.

I should have been more clear. I'm not ignoring the blinking theft light, I'm just not sure if it always blinks when you initially turn the engine over. I always thought if the alarm was tripped, the engine would not do anything at all when you turn the key on BUT my car IS cranking/turning over but will not start.

N8Dogg98 · Jul 13, 2011

I hate when people install aftermarket alarms... I feel for ya man. Like Burns said it sounds like an electrical problem, and there's nothing worse than chasing electrical gremlins. I'd rather chew aluminum foil

Jinx · Jul 13, 2011

Have you tried a "reset" by disconnecting the battery? It might clear the alarm/theft issue (if that is indeed the cause).

wmburns · Jul 13, 2011

Jinx said:
Have you tried a "reset" by disconnecting the battery? It might clear the alarm/theft issue (if that is indeed the cause).

Note on some alram systems and late model PATS, disconnecting the battery with "trip" PATS. Reset by unlocking the driver's door with the key and/or locking/unlocking with the remote FOB.

c.moser · Jul 14, 2011

After messing around with some different things, found out it was just a blown ignition fuse. Probably should have checked there first, but things are usually not that simple of a fix when it comes to me and car problems. Thanks for the suggestions guys

Lugnuts · Jul 14, 2011

Sorry I did not see this thread sooner.
New to the forum, not to cars.
While it is possible to pop a fuse while driving, it is more likely that a fuse will pop because of another reason or when that circuit is initially excited due to inrush current. Might be worth a look around the car for possible shorts on the same circuit. Last time I knew someone that had this happen, I found that one of the wires for his MLS eliminators wiggled loose and touched his exhaust and shorted there. If something like this has occurred, a fuse will only be a temp fix.
Just as a safety precaution in the meantime you might want to keep a couple extra fuses in the car.
FYI

c.moser · Jul 18, 2011

Lugnuts said:
Sorry I did not see this thread sooner.
New to the forum, not to cars.
While it is possible to pop a fuse while driving, it is more likely that a fuse will pop because of another reason or when that circuit is initially excited due to inrush current. Might be worth a look around the car for possible shorts on the same circuit. Last time I knew someone that had this happen, I found that one of the wires for his MLS eliminators wiggled loose and touched his exhaust and shorted there. If something like this has occurred, a fuse will only be a temp fix.
Just as a safety precaution in the meantime you might want to keep a couple extra fuses in the car.
FYI

You're right because it popped another one not even 50 miles later. I'll have to look around for possible shorts. Thanks for the advice

Lugnuts · Jul 27, 2011

Remember, you don't have to trace every wire in the car - that would take forever! Only check wires related to that circuit. So far wmburns (username) has proven to be the master of wiring diagrams. I would pm him for info - he is very knowledgeable and is usually more than willing to help out.

chunger · Jul 27, 2011

I was going to suggest that your issue sounds similar to mine:

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/839017-fuel-pump-went-out-98-gt.html

But, it sounds like you've already got it narrowed down to a fuse.

98 GT died and now will not start

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