After recently going thru a mini monsoon, my 99 Mustang V6 just decided it didn't want to start anymore. I replaced the battery with no joy. When trying to start, everything appears to go as normal with the starter attempting to fire, but it won't turn over. After a little more troubleshooting, I realised it doesn't sound like the fuel pump is coming on. The Instrument Cluster Test gives me an Ignition Run Circuit Open (dtc 9356) code. Is there anything else I should check before dropping my tank and replacing the fuel pump. I believe I already need to just to replace the filler neck gasket (leak), but just want to cover my bases before replacing the pump. Thanks for any help you can give!
99 No Start
- Thread starter Resqnyou
- Start date
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
Perform all tests and post the results.
Check all fuses in the engine bay and driver's kick panel.
Check the IFS shutoff in the trunk. Reset by pressing the red button.
Turn the key on, no not crank. Does the theft light go out after a 3 second "prove out"? If not, STOP and find out why.
Does the theft light come on during cranking? If it does, STOP and find out why.
Turn the key on/pause/off several times without cranking. Listen for the fuel pump to run each time. If you do not hear the fuel pump run, STOP and find out why. After key cycling, does starting improve? If so, suspect fuel pressure leak down or a weak fuel pump.
Hold the throttle half way down during cranking. Does this improve starting? If so, suspect a bad IAC.
Disconnect the electrical connector to the MAF. Does this improve starting? If so, suspect a bad MAF.
Does the check engine light come on during cranking? Does the tach bounce during cranking?
Since this problem began after a water event, inspect the crank shaft position sensor (CKP). The CKP is a NO START sensor. That is any interruption in the CKP sensor will result in no spark, NO fuel, and NO start.
Check all fuses in the engine bay and driver's kick panel.
Check the IFS shutoff in the trunk. Reset by pressing the red button.
Turn the key on, no not crank. Does the theft light go out after a 3 second "prove out"? If not, STOP and find out why.
Does the theft light come on during cranking? If it does, STOP and find out why.
Turn the key on/pause/off several times without cranking. Listen for the fuel pump to run each time. If you do not hear the fuel pump run, STOP and find out why. After key cycling, does starting improve? If so, suspect fuel pressure leak down or a weak fuel pump.
Hold the throttle half way down during cranking. Does this improve starting? If so, suspect a bad IAC.
Disconnect the electrical connector to the MAF. Does this improve starting? If so, suspect a bad MAF.
Does the check engine light come on during cranking? Does the tach bounce during cranking?
Since this problem began after a water event, inspect the crank shaft position sensor (CKP). The CKP is a NO START sensor. That is any interruption in the CKP sensor will result in no spark, NO fuel, and NO start.
Checked all fuses...everything is a go! Even swapped the fuel pump fuse just for good measure with no joy.
IFS switch appears to be in order... pressed reset with still no fuel pump.
Theft light comes on for three seconds (as advertised) and goes out like normal. However, when I turn the ignition to START, the Theft light comes back on, flashing.
I've read on a few different sites that this appears to be a problem with the PCM. Does the CCRM control the power to the PCM? I noticed right before this no start condition came about that the heater/ ac wasn't working properly, which I'm sure is part of the CCRM. If the CCRM has gone out, would this create all the problems I am having with the fuel pump and no start conditions? Thanks for the help!
IFS switch appears to be in order... pressed reset with still no fuel pump.
Theft light comes on for three seconds (as advertised) and goes out like normal. However, when I turn the ignition to START, the Theft light comes back on, flashing.
I've read on a few different sites that this appears to be a problem with the PCM. Does the CCRM control the power to the PCM? I noticed right before this no start condition came about that the heater/ ac wasn't working properly, which I'm sure is part of the CCRM. If the CCRM has gone out, would this create all the problems I am having with the fuel pump and no start conditions? Thanks for the help!
Just to add a little more info, my instrument cluster has also been acting up, with mileage displays disappearing and reappearing at random times. It did this before the no start, and continues to do it now. May be something totally unconnected, but I thought I might add it in, just in case. Thanks again!
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
Check ground G204 located behind the center console. It is shared by the cluster, GEM, AC/heater blower motor, and RADIO.
Check the grounds around the radiator core support. Esp the grounds around the battery.
The cluster displaying all "_" usually indicates that the cluster and PCM do not "see" each other.
Check the PCM connector for moisture and corrosion.
Check fuse F2.2 for power when this problem occurs. We need to narrow down if this is a power problem external to the PCM or a problem in the PCM itself.
Check the grounds around the radiator core support. Esp the grounds around the battery.
The cluster displaying all "_" usually indicates that the cluster and PCM do not "see" each other.
Check the PCM connector for moisture and corrosion.
Check fuse F2.2 for power when this problem occurs. We need to narrow down if this is a power problem external to the PCM or a problem in the PCM itself.
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