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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

A better rear main seal?

  • Thread starter Thread starter DrScientist
  • Start date Start date Apr 24, 2011

DrScientist

Member
Apr 19, 2011
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Apr 24, 2011
#1
  • Apr 24, 2011
  • #1
I am wondering if there is a better rear main seal for my 94GT than just the ford house special, or the autozone special. The reason I'm wondering is because I perceive there to be some sort of factory defect going on when it comes to the rear main seal in these cars. I have had two 94 GT's. Both their rear mains leaked. A buddy had a 95GT. His rear main leaked until he finally changed it out. Another friend of mine had a 94GT. His rear main seal leaked as well. So... is there some kind of seal that is made out of better stuff than the apparent junk that Ford specified?

You know, maybe like an "aftermarket" seal made by someone like fel pro or something. Is there any way to get an improved seal?
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
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Burlington, NJ
Apr 24, 2011
#2
  • Apr 24, 2011
  • #2
Most leak... i just used the standard felpro and cleaned the crank really well.
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
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Vernon BC
Apr 24, 2011
#3
  • Apr 24, 2011
  • #3
A lot of leaks that are thought to be the rear main are quite often a leak between the lower intake and the block at the back of the engine. Check that area carefully. You may need a mirror to see if it is dry or not.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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Apr 24, 2011
#4
  • Apr 24, 2011
  • #4
Additionally, the PCV's on these cars can easily get overwhelmed and the RMS often leaks as a result.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,297
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Acworth, GA
Apr 24, 2011
#5
  • Apr 24, 2011
  • #5
There are better rear main seals available through Summit. They are like $40 though. I've never had a problem with the standard one though. You need to take light sand paper to the crankshaft when you change it. There is a break in process between the rubber and the metal. Therefore, you need to rough up the surface on the metal to get it to break in with a new seal.

Also, don't forget to use thread sealant on the flywheel bolts. those bolt holes in the crankshaft go through to the other side, so oil can leak through there.

Kurt
 

ratio411

Founding Member
Apr 21, 2002
3,870
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109
Pensacola FL
Apr 24, 2011
#6
  • Apr 24, 2011
  • #6
Yeah, it's funny, out of every 5.0 we have/had, the 94 is the only one that leaks at the rear main.
Usually, when it comes to 5.0 engines, they leak at the rear of the valve covers, and it runs down the back of the engine. However, the 94 really is a rear main leak.
 

DrScientist

Member
Apr 19, 2011
84
0
6
Apr 24, 2011
#7
  • Apr 24, 2011
  • #7
HISSIN50 said:
Additionally, the PCV's on these cars can easily get overwhelmed and the RMS often leaks as a result.
Click to expand...

Mine seemed to be ok. I got a new PCV valve and screen from autozone. It was special order though.

toyman said:
A lot of leaks that are thought to be the rear main are quite often a leak between the lower intake and the block at the back of the engine. Check that area carefully. You may need a mirror to see if it is dry or not.
Click to expand...

Ok so I will check the back of the valve covers, and the back of the intake. You know what I need to do, is get some of that diechem and add it to the oil. Then get a blacklight at night and find out exactly where the leak is. I'm still guessing its the rear main though.

Anyone know why the rear main seal from summit is better? Is it made out of better material or something? Perhaps its thicker.
 
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