a few questions about flywheels...

fowlertj · Feb 13, 2004

I am pretty sure that I screwed up. I was changing my clutch and I sheared one flywheel bolt and and cracked another. Not wanting to keep one bolt that was broke and another sheared in service I replaced them. My friend managed to talk me into just good ole grade "A" bolts. Now I have the car all together again and I have a drivetrain vibration. I am almost positive that this bolt swapping is the problem. So now my questions are:

1-Do I just buy some more grade "A"'s or do I need some special ones? If you think that I need some special ones please give your opinion.

2- I am thinking that I really dont want to tear that thing all the way down to replace flywheel bolts. I see a few have aluminum flywheels or upgraded. Is it worth it?

3- for the uprgrade, how much money are we talkin. I've seen aluminum flywheels for 350-400 and steel for 270-400.

Thanks for any help you can give.

Tim

TIMMY2734 · Feb 13, 2004

Summit and Jegs carry ARP flywheel bolts for less than $10. If your car is pretty much stock, go with a steel flywheel.

One question about your vibration: Is the vibration constant? Did you mark the driveshaft when you pulled it?

fowlertj · Feb 13, 2004

the vibration is constant above 35mph no matter wether I am accelerating, deccelerating , clutch engaged or disengaged. It gets worse as the mph increases. I just now thought that wouldnt have anything to do with the flywheel. hmmmm???? Now I am confused. I mean it would have something to do with it..but if it gets worse as the mph increases its probably a driveshaft or rear end issue then. I have changed the rear tires already. Both of the U joints have been replaced. I'm lost anyone with any ideas please post.

Asha'man · Feb 13, 2004

If it does it with the clutch disengaged (i.e., no power being transferred past the clutch), it has to be flywheel-related.

Ash

Mustang5L5 · Feb 14, 2004

Get up on a straight road, when you feel the vibration push the clutch in and shut off the engine. MAKE SURE you don't lock the steering wheel and be ready to turn it on in case you need it.

If the vibration stops, its the flywhee. If the vibration continues, it's something else

Mustang5L5 · Feb 14, 2004

One more thing. Don't fool around when it comes to flywheel bolts. Flywheels are eavy and at 5500 RPM there is a lot of potential energy stored in them. If those bolts snap, you are in trouble.

Buy Brand new GRADE 8 bolts. I usually try to go to Ford and get them for $12 since their quaility for bolts is very high. ANy aftermarket bolt manufacturer will have quality bolts as well

fowlertj · Feb 14, 2004

thanks

mustang, thanks for the tip. I never even thought about that. I will try that and get back to ya. I have definitely learned my lesson about flywheels.

grrrrrrr · Feb 14, 2004

You NEED to make sure you get the torque specs down right also as well as bolts that are specified for the task. If you rev the motor and sidestep the clutch with less than adequate hardware, you could wind up with the flywheel cutting right through the floorboard and into your leg... a 15lb flywheel traveling at 5500 rpm's is no joke. Those bolts transfer all your motors energy to the wheels by way of the clutch and transmission and so on and so forth, if it doesn't find it's way to the ground through the drivetrain, it will find another way to get there.. you don't want that... be careful and you'll be fine..

a few questions about flywheels...

fowlertj

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TIMMY2734

fowlertj

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Asha'man

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

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That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

fowlertj

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a few questions about flywheels...

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