a few rebuild and compability questions

[my$100project]

Ok, I purchased the stang for $100.00. After much consideration and work, I've decided to make this car my beginning phase. I have spent numerous hours grinding rust from inside the engine compartment and under the vehicle. (everywhere.) Again after MUCH consideration, 2 cheap angle grinders and a half dozen or so brushes, I have decided to keep this vehicle for the time being and upgrade parts (keeping the old around) on a montly basis, until the time comes when I find a local foxbody in good shape. I am in the final stages of the engine rebuild and was wanting some information before installing.
Some information you may need to know is. It's an 89 G.T. 5.0 H.O. displacement left @ 302 C.I.

1.) For the initial break-in period- Where should I set my timing? Example: 10 degrees BTDC, 8 Degrees BTDC----ETC--, Also any other safety precuations I should take during this period. (Wait to install off-road x-pipe exhaust system-remove smog pump,etc)? I don't want the computer riching the a/f ratio during this process? Completely stock.

2.)I'd like to convert to change the rear-end. Very shortly, I'm going to be purchasing a 3.73:1 dif gear. I figure during this time I might as well upgarde to a 31 or 32 spline axle (whatever is available for the 89 mustang.)
---Also I want to convert the brakes to an all disc system. I know I will have to replace the master cylinder and proportioning valve. However, I'm not sure what used years are interchangeable and what are not. I also thought about converting to 5 lug at the same time. I have no clue where to start in this area, and any information would be very helpfull.
Here is a link to a used (sn95) system. How is this interchangeable? What else is required for the 5 lug and all disk brake conversion.

3.)Lastly, I don't like how the car sits. I'm going to be upgrading the suspension. I got on summit and noticed both eibach (highly respected in my book) and ford racing products both sell a lowering spring kit. Eibach runs $250 and fords racing product line is only $140. Is there a stiffness or height difference here, or am I just paying for the Eibach name?

I plan on keeping the engine stock for the time being. I will probably stroke the engine when I find a new body.

Look forward to your responses.

 

[NKau]

Ok, I purchased the stang for $100.00. After much consideration and work, I've decided to make this car my beginning phase. I have spent numerous hours grinding rust from inside the engine compartment and under the vehicle. (everywhere.) Again after MUCH consideration, 2 cheap angle grinders and a half dozen or so brushes, I have decided to keep this vehicle for the time being and upgrade parts (keeping the old around) on a montly basis, until the time comes when I find a local foxbody in good shape. I am in the final stages of the engine rebuild and was wanting some information before installing.
Some information you may need to know is. It's an 89 G.T. 5.0 H.O. displacement left @ 302 C.I.

1.) For the initial break-in period- Where should I set my timing? Example: 10 degrees BTDC, 8 Degrees BTDC----ETC--, Also any other safety precuations I should take during this period. (Wait to install off-road x-pipe exhaust system-remove smog pump,etc)? I don't want the computer riching the a/f ratio during this process? Completely stock.

10 deg. btdc should be fine. Exhaust mods shouldn't make a noticable difference in how the car runs. From what I understand, eliminating the smog pump will cause your car to run slightly leaner, but should not cause you any grief. My pump is removed, and I have no problems.

2.)I'd like to convert to change the rear-end. Very shortly, I'm going to be purchasing a 3.73:1 dif gear. I figure during this time I might as well upgarde to a 31 or 32 spline axle (whatever is available for the 89 mustang.)
---Also I want to convert the brakes to an all disc system. I know I will have to replace the master cylinder and proportioning valve. However, I'm not sure what used years are interchangeable and what are not. I also thought about converting to 5 lug at the same time. I have no clue where to start in this area, and any information would be very helpfull.
Here is a link to a used (sn95) system. How is this interchangeable? What else is required for the 5 lug and all disk brake conversion.

http://svo73mm.cjb.net/ That site should tell you everything you need to know about upgrading to 5 lug. To upgrade to 31 spline axles, keep in mind that you will need some sort of aftermarket posi unit made for 31 spline axles; can't just plug 31 spline axles into a stock differential.

3.)Lastly, I don't like how the car sits. I'm going to be upgrading the suspension. I got on summit and noticed both eibach (highly respected in my book) and ford racing products both sell a lowering spring kit. Eibach runs $250 and fords racing product line is only $140. Is there a stiffness or height difference here, or am I just paying for the Eibach name?

I know the Ford B/C springs drop the car close to an inch; don't know which Eibach kit you're looking at, so I can't comment on that. I've had great results with the Ford springs on both cars I've had them on. All depends on how much of a drop you're after; if you want more than an inch drop, the Ford springs won't cut it.

 

[my$100project]

http://svo73mm.cjb.net/


dam dial up---dead link---can't load

 

[vristang]

I am pretty sure some thread searching will turn up some handy info on the brake comversion.
Here is what I did with my 90 GT.
I found an entire rear end from a 95 GT with disc brakes, 3.27, but a bent axle. For the money it was a good deal. I put in new 31 spline Mosers and an Auburn street limited slip. I absolutely love it! Great control in the corners and great from a stop too. For the proportioning valve I picked up a distribution block from another wrecked 95, and simply pulled the spring out and installed it in my dist. block. Quick and very easy. Because I used a 95 rear end I did have to get 95 backspaced wheels, but since I was getting new wheels for 5-lug anyway it didn't matter. In the front I purchased new Cobra calipers and rotors, and used the 95 spindle, and used the stock A-arm (if I remember right).
Hope this gives you some ideas.

 

[BaXTeR3221]

I know that brake site has been down for a while. I dunno if its going to be back up again, but if you search on here, there are plenty of threads that deal with the same thing.