Progress Thread ace305 - Engine Build

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Checking cam shaft end play .004

Valve spring assembly
 

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well there was some discussion about lack of back pressure causing a loss in torque. I was not ready to purchase new heads so I decided not to spend to much on the stock heads.

How did you figure there would be a loss of back pressure? I don't understand this with what all you're doing but if so back pressure can be dealt with the exhaust. Also, you don't need to purchase new heads. From the pictures you've posted you would benefit from porting your current heads. The combustion efficiency will improve which would help mitigate any backpressure concerns. This is all before considering the boost from the mammoth SC. You should seriously consider contacting both KB and MMR and ask for their opinions on efficiency losses due to not porting your heads with their products. With everything already torn down costs should be minimal regardless if you use the local wiz that ports by hand or if you use a shop with CNC capabilities. There is little you can do that will return as much for the amount spent than porting heads.

Just curious about this but how did you determine cam specs for custom cams? Was it a recommendation from KB? If not, I would also get their opinion on your cam specs and get their opinion on how they match up with the tune they give with their SC. Will a custom tune be required? How did you determine your fuel requirements?

Don't mean to sound like I'm being overly critical but you're doing a lot of cool work to your motor and this is just advice to help you get the best bang for your buck. Both MMR and KB aren't going to offer any advice that wasn't asked for but both could write a book about bad results with those that didn't ask the right questions. The best piece of advice I was ever given was to ask about what questions I should be asking about buying and installing your products. It's the reason for my moniker because if I don't ask they assume I know and not that I don't know what I don't know. A KB SC is the envy of a lot of people so get the most out of it.
 
thanks for the help I really enjoy the feedback, remember I am novice at this so I am learning.

KB said the 2.1 blower likes a little back pressure. this was KBs words.

the cams were custom ground for the KB blower and the specs I gave MMR. I have upgraded the fuel system and also have the boost a pump from KB. The car is being tuned by a local tuner. I currently have a custom tune with an SCT.

I am sure I won't get the full potential from this build, but that is not a real concern for me. If I can get to 450hp I will be over the moon.

MMR actually sent me the MMR900 even though I purchased the 750.

thanks for all the help
 
That was generous of MMR. Sounds like you did everything right. Kudos. What compression ratio did KB advise you get? You're gonna love the SC. To get any better IMO requires high dollar bespoke forced induction. A last piece of advice is to consider a pre-oiler. It would drastically extend the life of your engine.
 
That was generous of MMR. Sounds like you did everything right. Kudos. What compression ratio did KB advise you get? You're gonna love the SC. To get any better IMO requires high dollar bespoke forced induction. A last piece of advice is to consider a pre-oiler. It would drastically extend the life of your engine.
9 to 1 on the compression. I have never heard of a pre oiler. I will look into it

thank you
 
There are 2 types of pre-oilers. One is used to force oil through a fresh rebuild before the first start. This one is essential for your build but it's not what I was referring to. https://www.summitracing.com/oh/search/part-type/engine-prelubers

The other performs the same function but is used on installed motors and uses the oil in the pan or reservoir on dry sump system. What it does is circulate oil when you put your key in and creates oil pressure before you start the engine. It only takes a couple of seconds and cold starts are detrimental to all engines but even more so to OHC engines and then again even more so to boosted and high compression engines. Here's a quick explanation but there are studies on the internet about how good they are for engines. There are many more available than this one, Moroso for example although they call theirs an accumulator but some do a lot more than pre-oil like compensate for drops in oil pressure from hard cornering. http://engineprelube.com/

9:1 is higher than I would have expected but it's why I asked.

Best of luck with your build. You've definitely gone the extra mile with it.
 
There are 2 types of pre-oilers. One is used to force oil through a fresh rebuild before the first start. This one is essential for your build but it's not what I was referring to. https://www.summitracing.com/oh/search/part-type/engine-prelubers

The other performs the same function but is used on installed motors and uses the oil in the pan or reservoir on dry sump system. What it does is circulate oil when you put your key in and creates oil pressure before you start the engine. It only takes a couple of seconds and cold starts are detrimental to all engines but even more so to OHC engines and then again even more so to boosted and high compression engines. Here's a quick explanation but there are studies on the internet about how good they are for engines. There are many more available than this one, Moroso for example although they call theirs an accumulator but some do a lot more than pre-oil like compensate for drops in oil pressure from hard cornering. http://engineprelube.com/

9:1 is higher than I would have expected but it's why I asked.

Best of luck with your build. You've definitely gone the extra mile with it.
Awesome thanks for the info. MMR assured me that 9 to 1 with a KB was perfect
 
I didn't doubt the 9:1. I was just surprised. Did you lower your car? Do you plan on running your car at a strip when you're done? Just wondering because lowering these cars was a common mod but if you have a stock rear suspension except for lowering you'll be better off returning the car to stock height. Lowering is good for the street but it comes with a cost to traction at a strip. With what you're doing it will be pretty drastic.
 
I didn't doubt the 9:1. I was just surprised. Did you lower your car? Do you plan on running your car at a strip when you're done? Just wondering because lowering these cars was a common mod but if you have a stock rear suspension except for lowering you'll be better off returning the car to stock height. Lowering is good for the street but it comes with a cost to traction at a strip. With what you're doing it will be pretty drastic.
I have the suspension set up for road racing. its a full interior car minus the radio. Have just a few more suspension components to complete.
 

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You've got a good looking car. I like the rear offset. Did you do that or did you get it this way? I also assumed you started with a 4.6 which means you're in for a really different car then what you started with. What are your plans with the electronics?
I got the car stock. I did all the work. The only thing I didn’t do was install the aluminum drive shaft. Gonna pull the radio system. Making a custom radio bezel delete. Going to mount the SCT in its place. Air/fuel and boost gauge.
 
I haven't had anything to do with the 4.6 since '03 and those were very different motors then what you're dealing with but I'm impressed with your ambition. Your posts suggest this is your first time with a project like this because you've expressed some doubts. The engine is not a complicated engine and with good reference materials you shouldn't have any problems. Remember though it is an unforgiving engine. With what you are doing the area where you are working on the engine can't be clean enough. Much of the engine's potential is a result of the tolerances involved so if you can avoid it don't start anything you can't finish in the time you have. Put another way, don't walk away with something half done and covered with rags or whatever. It's just invitation to unknown future problems. Not all boost is created equally and I'm guessing you don't have a lot of experience with engines that create a lot of internal pressure or vacuum differentials.

Don't take anything for granted. Measure everything! You've put pictures up of bearings but did you mic them? Same with all journals. Spend the money on a large cam degree wheel like Como Cam's #4791. The smaller wheels are for those that can degree cams in the sleep or are working on older engines that don't have the tolerance requirements your engine does. I'm not familiar with your MMR short block but know if it is internally or externally balanced and fully understand what that means. It will go a long way with your understanding and confidence with what you are doing.

Like I said, you have a good looking car, you're going about your project the right way which is impressive in it's own right and admirable ambition. Feel free to contact me if anything comes up or if you have any questions.
 
I haven't had anything to do with the 4.6 since '03 and those were very different motors then what you're dealing with but I'm impressed with your ambition. Your posts suggest this is your first time with a project like this because you've expressed some doubts. The engine is not a complicated engine and with good reference materials you shouldn't have any problems. Remember though it is an unforgiving engine. With what you are doing the area where you are working on the engine can't be clean enough. Much of the engine's potential is a result of the tolerances involved so if you can avoid it don't start anything you can't finish in the time you have. Put another way, don't walk away with something half done and covered with rags or whatever. It's just invitation to unknown future problems. Not all boost is created equally and I'm guessing you don't have a lot of experience with engines that create a lot of internal pressure or vacuum differentials.

Don't take anything for granted. Measure everything! You've put pictures up of bearings but did you mic them? Same with all journals. Spend the money on a large cam degree wheel like Como Cam's #4791. The smaller wheels are for those that can degree cams in the sleep or are working on older engines that don't have the tolerance requirements your engine does. I'm not familiar with your MMR short block but know if it is internally or externally balanced and fully understand what that means. It will go a long way with your understanding and confidence with what you are doing.

Like I said, you have a good looking car, you're going about your project the right way which is impressive in it's own right and admirable ambition. Feel free to contact me if anything comes up or if you have any questions.

thank you. My biggest concern is being hospital clean. I have a plan to be very clean. I have researched so much I know he tolerances by heart. The MMR 900 rotating assembly is a kit that is designed to work together. I will plastiguage the tolerances for the mains and rod bearings just to be sure. I sent back the bearings that had issues and just received the replacements. They were checked from the Clevite factory before sending out to me.

I had MMR balance the forged crank. The Manley pistons and Manley H beam rods are also balanced.

As for degreeing the cams, I am not using adjustable cam gears or adjustable crank gear.

The piston rings have been filed for a boosted application by the machine shop that did my block.

I am picking up the block this week. Then the assembly will begin.

thanks again for all the help.
 
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