well there was some discussion about lack of back pressure causing a loss in torque. I was not ready to purchase new heads so I decided not to spend to much on the stock heads.Why did you decide not to port the heads with all this work? Did KB have an opinion on this and how it will effect the boost?
well there was some discussion about lack of back pressure causing a loss in torque. I was not ready to purchase new heads so I decided not to spend to much on the stock heads.
9 to 1 on the compression. I have never heard of a pre oiler. I will look into itThat was generous of MMR. Sounds like you did everything right. Kudos. What compression ratio did KB advise you get? You're gonna love the SC. To get any better IMO requires high dollar bespoke forced induction. A last piece of advice is to consider a pre-oiler. It would drastically extend the life of your engine.
Awesome thanks for the info. MMR assured me that 9 to 1 with a KB was perfectThere are 2 types of pre-oilers. One is used to force oil through a fresh rebuild before the first start. This one is essential for your build but it's not what I was referring to. https://www.summitracing.com/oh/search/part-type/engine-prelubers
The other performs the same function but is used on installed motors and uses the oil in the pan or reservoir on dry sump system. What it does is circulate oil when you put your key in and creates oil pressure before you start the engine. It only takes a couple of seconds and cold starts are detrimental to all engines but even more so to OHC engines and then again even more so to boosted and high compression engines. Here's a quick explanation but there are studies on the internet about how good they are for engines. There are many more available than this one, Moroso for example although they call theirs an accumulator but some do a lot more than pre-oil like compensate for drops in oil pressure from hard cornering. http://engineprelube.com/
9:1 is higher than I would have expected but it's why I asked.
Best of luck with your build. You've definitely gone the extra mile with it.
I have the suspension set up for road racing. its a full interior car minus the radio. Have just a few more suspension components to complete.I didn't doubt the 9:1. I was just surprised. Did you lower your car? Do you plan on running your car at a strip when you're done? Just wondering because lowering these cars was a common mod but if you have a stock rear suspension except for lowering you'll be better off returning the car to stock height. Lowering is good for the street but it comes with a cost to traction at a strip. With what you're doing it will be pretty drastic.
I got the car stock. I did all the work. The only thing I didn’t do was install the aluminum drive shaft. Gonna pull the radio system. Making a custom radio bezel delete. Going to mount the SCT in its place. Air/fuel and boost gauge.You've got a good looking car. I like the rear offset. Did you do that or did you get it this way? I also assumed you started with a 4.6 which means you're in for a really different car then what you started with. What are your plans with the electronics?
I haven't had anything to do with the 4.6 since '03 and those were very different motors then what you're dealing with but I'm impressed with your ambition. Your posts suggest this is your first time with a project like this because you've expressed some doubts. The engine is not a complicated engine and with good reference materials you shouldn't have any problems. Remember though it is an unforgiving engine. With what you are doing the area where you are working on the engine can't be clean enough. Much of the engine's potential is a result of the tolerances involved so if you can avoid it don't start anything you can't finish in the time you have. Put another way, don't walk away with something half done and covered with rags or whatever. It's just invitation to unknown future problems. Not all boost is created equally and I'm guessing you don't have a lot of experience with engines that create a lot of internal pressure or vacuum differentials.
Don't take anything for granted. Measure everything! You've put pictures up of bearings but did you mic them? Same with all journals. Spend the money on a large cam degree wheel like Como Cam's #4791. The smaller wheels are for those that can degree cams in the sleep or are working on older engines that don't have the tolerance requirements your engine does. I'm not familiar with your MMR short block but know if it is internally or externally balanced and fully understand what that means. It will go a long way with your understanding and confidence with what you are doing.
Like I said, you have a good looking car, you're going about your project the right way which is impressive in it's own right and admirable ambition. Feel free to contact me if anything comes up or if you have any questions.
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