Yes sir it has a girdle.Didn't find it in the manuals but let me ask what might be a stupid question. Did the 2001 Romeo 2V heads have a girdle?
Edit: Are you going to be able to use studs for your heads in your car?
My Ford Service manual says the cam bearing bolts torque is 10 Nm (89 lb-in). Not very much. Not torque to yield.can someone confirm the PI 2001 Romeo cam girdle bolt torque?
Awesome thank you. Do you know if the Cam girdle bolts are TTY? With such little torque required.My Ford Service manual says the cam bearing bolts torque is 10 Nm (89 lb-in). Not very much.
Regarding keeping everything clean. I feel your pain. I'm currently over hauling a GM 3.5 OHV (VIN N LZ4). I have done several motor swaps but this is my first refresh over haul with new bearings, rings, gaskets, head job. It's amazing just how much "stuff" just falls out of the air each time I take off the engine stand cover. Not to mention keeping any dirt/grime on the outside from getting inside.
Regarding the initial prime. In my case the machine shop lent me their DIY solution. It's an old Ford oil pump with a PCV pick up tube in a bucket. A power drill to drive. It worked well enough to find a low oil flow problem with no oil passing through the #1 push rod. I'm still trouble shooting the issue.
The GM 3.5 OHV uses an old style gear pump that needs to be primed to work best. However turning the oil pump with a drill won't prime the top end.
The 4.6 uses a gerotor pump crank driven pump. The advantage of a gerotor pump is it's self priming. What I have done:
For a new build the assembly lube should protect the parts during the initial prime cranking.
- filled the oil filter to reduce time needed to build pressure.
- disabled the fuel system so the motor won't start.
- If possible crank without the spark plugs out.
- crank the motor (in reasonable burst) until oil is seen in the valve covers through the oil filler neck.
In my experience that even when the oil pump itself has been replaced the oil is seen in the top in surprisingly quick.
Obviously if you have easy access to a pressure pre-lube tool then that's the best. But there are other "options".
Keep up the good work!
did it say they are TTY?Sorry ace, my mistake. The ladder caps are not what I know as a girdle. 71-106 in-lbs in my manuals and nothing about backing off and retightening or plus an x amount of degrees.
Just a thought to consider, being this a first for you get some head bolts that can be used more than once like ARP. Studs are the best option but in a lot of cars today you have to remove the engine to get the heads off when studs are used.
Awesome thanks.No, it said tighten to 71 - 106 in lbs. Yield is used in a lot of different ways but yield strength is how much force can be applied until plastic deformation begins. This is why a torque wrench is necessary and both inch and foot ponds is needed.
If you would, how have you been tightening your bolts?
Impressive. I'll say it again, you're doing this right.
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