Add A/C.......
- Thread starter jays88notch
- Start date
stang22
Active Member
Ford Motorcraft parts only? The compressor would be the only thing I would worry about, not the rest.
Tim
Tim
Zero_chance
Founding Member
Ive thought about the same thing man. My hatch had factory AC but the compressor was removed and the lines were cut at the firewall. The bracket for the compressor is even still there. Theres jsut a million other things going on right now. (clutch, misfire at idle, some codes, etc) that require my attention first. To make matters worst I work till 5 and then have to be home for 530 and I cant really get much done at home cuz my drivewat is at about a 35 degree angle.
Many trips to the junkyard and removal & replacement of the heater/evaporator core will get you there.
The evaporator core occupies the same place as the heater core. See http://home.netcom.com/~skent/mustang/1990/heater_core/hcore.html for help.
The system will need to be charged with R134a. See http://bellsouthpwp.net/l/r/lrichker/Mustang_tech/R134a_conversion/r134a_conversion.htm for help. And yes, you will need to flush all the junkyard components of the old oil prior to use.
The evaporator core occupies the same place as the heater core. See http://home.netcom.com/~skent/mustang/1990/heater_core/hcore.html for help.
The system will need to be charged with R134a. See http://bellsouthpwp.net/l/r/lrichker/Mustang_tech/R134a_conversion/r134a_conversion.htm for help. And yes, you will need to flush all the junkyard components of the old oil prior to use.
There was an artical in 5.0 mag about an aftermarket 134a system that by far outperforms the stock R12 system. If you get all junkyard parts, it might be a real headache because who know's what is good and not and how much more life it has. Filling the R12 system with R134a when done properly will work but will not cool as well because R134a requires higher pressures to be efficient.
PuterAmI
Member
90mustangGT said:
It does not outperform, but you should get vent temps down to 42 degrees. Glenn will even install for free.
http://hosewizards.com/
FWIW, keep it R12 if you can.
89MustangGX
I have nothing productive to add!
PuterAmI said:
I'm no HVAC pro, but I believe in a properly designed system, the new refrigerant can outperform the R12.
I think I saw that same article.
89MustangGX
I have nothing productive to add!
jays88notch said:
You will need the entire heater box (which houses the evaporator and heater core), the lines that go from the firewall to the compressor (which you will need) and the condensor (you will need, in front of the radiator). The lines also have a canister on them (sorry, terminology escapes me), but that is usualyl one-piece. There are different brakcets for the power steering pump/compressor. A wiring harness for the compressor. A WOT shut-off relay. HVAC control panel inside the car. And of course any other brackets and screws.
The work behind the dash is the most difficult and time consuming.
PuterAmI
Member
89MustangGX said:
The heat exchange properties of R134A are not as good as R12, especially at low airflow. Therefore, it is impossible to outperform.
Any A/C technician will say the same. If possible, stay with R12. Try the Forum at Aircondition.com
The canister is called an Accumulator.
The line from the condenser to the evaporator is called a liquid line and contains the fixed orifice. The suction line goes from the accumulator to the compressor.
For a brief explanation of the A/C system in a Fox Mustang, see the section "Introduction to the A/C system" at the below URL.
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/general/R12-to-R134A-Conversion.html
Someone else trying to add A/C...
http://www.foureyedpride.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=18744
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