Adjustable LCA's

You can do them seperate but I find it easier to tackle the entire suspension at one time. You want to to the TQ box supports and lower arms at the same time....

What brand arms did you have in mind? The JD's double adj uppers are hard to beat, nice pieces.

Yes JD's Performance, Perks Performance reps for them he may be able to save you a little money (link in my sig). Check out his site you'll see all the companies he deals with. Tell Bill I sent ya..

I ran those adj and they are great, only reason I switched is I am going to run a totally different style set-up from a builder I am working with on my Drag Radial car, it will help get his name out and should really make my car hook.

As for the lowers I like almost any of them, UPR, Metco, HPM, Wolfe, Steeda, etc...

I'm like you, buy once and save yourself some money in the long run. Don't forget to add new bushings in the rear end side for the uppers when you swap them, I personally like the HPM poly bushings and never had any binding issues, or you can spend some more money and get the sphericals.

Now lets talk 4 x 4... I have a 96 F-150 with a 4" Sky Jacker suspension lift and a 2" body lift, 35" tires. It currently has Sky Jacjer soft ride shocks but I can tell they are getting old and weak, any suggestions on what I should put on? I don't so any hardcore four wheelin except some fun in the snow, it has to ride decent and I trailer my car with it also.

Thanks,

Rick

Those are a little more of a street style arm with 3 piece poly on the body side, or the Granatelli upper he sells has the heim joint which is more drag oriented.

Just for clarification, you were asking about adjustable lowers- but there are two different kinds. There are the adjustable lengths, and adjustable ride heights. Which are you asking about? Since you're offline now and I'll be gone later tonight, I'll sum it up since nobody did yet:
Most drag racers prefer the adjustable height lowers because it gives them more freedom to run bigger dia slicks at the track. Most road racers prefer the adjustable length lowers to square the rear to the car, correct pinion angles, and achieve optimum settings for handling; this is probably stuff you shouldn't be messing with, I'd advise avoiding them. Now, adjustable uppers usually only have the length adjustment, which is for correcting the pinion angle of the driveshaft on the rear. On a lowered car, this is a good thing. If the quarter mile is your bag, I would definately recommend adjustable uppers, but it isn't imparative that you do it now. The adjustable lowers are nice if you change tire sizes a lot, but otherwise your cheapest way out is to just get fixed point lowers for now. Either way you should notice an improvement in how you hook with the addition of just the lowers. The uppers later will stiffen it up some more, and help with wheelhop if you suffer from that. Usually it's best to do uppers and lowers at the same time, mainly to be sure that everything will work together. As long as you get the same brand for each you should be OK though- there isn't supposed to be any variance but sometimes there is a little brand to brand discrepency. Most of all it's easier to just do it all while your in there- but more money. As far as doing it once and doing it right- just make sure whatever brand you get has a three peice bushing (or better, spherical bearings or heim joints) or you will run into binding issues. I run lowers with spherical bearings on both ends in my street car, daily driver- no complaints. Some say it's an overkill, but I won't say it's bothersome. If you go with the heim joints you probably won't regret it. Good luck!

What lowers are you looking at? Metco, MM, JD's/Grantelli, and Pro3i are the only height adjustable arms I know of.

What are heim joints? I don't know what those are. i know the spherical bearings... and stock of course but what are the others?

A heim joint basically allows the arms to articulate freely instead of resorting to rubber or polyurethane bushings, which allow deflection under load. A suspension that articulates freely without bind or deflection will always provide the best grip by keeping the tires from unloading, which causes tire spin and wheel hop. Heim joints give the same end result as spherical bearings- and same harshness and noise, some people say. I personnally haven't noticed any additional noise or harshness with mine, but I hear the uppers are worse- and I don't use upper control arms at all so I wouldn't know.