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Advice for upcoming supercharged New Edge build

  • Thread starter Thread starter alwayshi
  • Start date Start date Jun 23, 2019
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Dark04GT

10 Year Member
Apr 27, 2008
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Jul 2, 2019
#21
  • Jul 2, 2019
  • #21
I had them do all the welding work at once. Much cheaper “in bulk”
 
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alwayshi

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Feb 22, 2019
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Jul 9, 2019
#22
  • Jul 9, 2019
  • #22
Thanks @Dark04GT

Had to spend a bit for another factory MAF today...redundant I know, but it threw P0171 and P0174 first. From searching the web, I figured it was a exhaust leak, since that was the last thing I touched to install the AFR gauge and sensor. Sure enough, slight gap after the shorty header. Theeeeeen the car decided to throw low voltage P0102 (I think, cant remember the exact code at the moment), so I changed the MAF in the meantime.

I'm still collecting parts to this build, and I'd rather at least start and run the mustang properly in the meantime till I'm ready.

Probably gonna go with the On3 Performance intercooler, and have the local shop do the pipe work.

I appreciate all your help.
 

Dark04GT

10 Year Member
Apr 27, 2008
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Jul 10, 2019
#23
  • Jul 10, 2019
  • #23
No sweat. Best of luck clearing all those codes and for your upcoming build!
 
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alwayshi

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Feb 22, 2019
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Oct 4, 2019
#24
  • Oct 4, 2019
  • #24
So I started the build
I've installed the 340 lph pump (which was direct drop in with new in basket sock filter - plug and play), mounted the charger/bracket assembly, installed the 1 step colder plugs, 47 lb injectors, coolant hose modification and mocked up my custom power pipe. Pretty much everything but intercooler piping and vacuum lines for the BOV and boost gauge, and catch can. Pretty stoked on how shes looking, and cant wait to get her done!
 

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alwayshi

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Oct 17, 2019
#25
  • Oct 17, 2019
  • #25
Hey @Dark04GT or if any one else would know,

I provided some pics below. Idk if I'm just tired but I just want to double check some vacuum connections and what to do with them.
In the first pic there are 3 different colors, orange - red - and blue.

Within the orange circle, could I put a T off of that and run my BOV with a minimum 6mm ID (recommended by Tial) to my BOV?
What do you do with the red and blue circled items respectively? If I T the two PCV vents together and run the catch can like yours @Dark04GT , what did you do about these two guys?

In the second pic theres just one circle - blue - could I use this line to tap a T and run my boost gauge off of? What line is this specifically for? Evap?

Thanks in advance
 

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Dark04GT

10 Year Member
Apr 27, 2008
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Oct 19, 2019
#26
  • Oct 19, 2019
  • #26
alwayshi said:
Hey @Dark04GT or if any one else would know,

I provided some pics below. Idk if I'm just tired but I just want to double check some vacuum connections and what to do with them.
In the first pic there are 3 different colors, orange - red - and blue.

Within the orange circle, could I put a T off of that and run my BOV with a minimum 6mm ID (recommended by Tial) to my BOV?
What do you do with the red and blue circled items respectively? If I T the two PCV vents together and run the catch can like yours @Dark04GT , what did you do about these two guys?

In the second pic theres just one circle - blue - could I use this line to tap a T and run my boost gauge off of? What line is this specifically for? Evap?

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

T off the front works great (your yellow circle).

My PCV is completely separate from the intake (T’ed valve cover lines => moroso catch => line to a breather in the passenger side fender)- advantage is simplicity, downside is that I loose the vacuum.
 

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alwayshi

Active Member
Feb 22, 2019
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Oct 19, 2019
#27
  • Oct 19, 2019
  • #27
Dark04GT said:
T off the front works great (your yellow circle).

My PCV is completely separate from the intake (T’ed valve cover lines => moroso catch => line to a breather in the passenger side fender)- advantage is simplicity, downside is that I loose the vacuum.
Click to expand...

ahh I see. So your BOV line comes off the orange circle, the red still ties into the intake after MAF (is your IAC bung welded or press fitted?), and blue was capped off.
What’s the down side to losing that vacuum for PCV?

I’ve researched and seen a lot of people T’ing the PCV to catch can and idk what the downside of losing that one particular vacuum would be. I’ve also seen a guy on modded mustangs use the blue circle vacuum port for his BOV. I was thinking of doing that and using the orange T for boost gauge signal
 

Dark04GT

10 Year Member
Apr 27, 2008
758
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59
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Oct 19, 2019
#28
  • Oct 19, 2019
  • #28
alwayshi said:
ahh I see. So your BOV line comes off the orange circle, the red still ties into the intake after MAF (is your IAC bung welded or press fitted?), and blue was capped off.
What’s the down side to losing that vacuum for PCV?

I’ve researched and seen a lot of people T’ing the PCV to catch can and idk what the downside of losing that one particular vacuum would be. I’ve also seen a guy on modded mustangs use the blue circle vacuum port for his BOV. I was thinking of doing that and using the orange T for boost gauge signal
Click to expand...

IAC is just pressed/slipped on and secured with a clamp at every junction. I replaced the OEM with just an elbow and some tubing.

For the PCV I have a tube coming from the passenger valve cover, around the back of the intake plenum, t’ed with the tube from the driver valve cover, and finishing in to the catch can.

Vacuum actively draws out piston ring blow by out of the crankcase. No vacuum = passive (not active) drawing out vapors from the crankcase. A little more combustion byproducts get in the oil (byproducts get in the oil either way). I scoured the forums and everywhere to find a major difference - there wasn’t a big difference. The difference is minor, all people with passive breathers recommended to make sure the oil is regularly changed (already good there!) and they had great results. I originally had just breathers on the valve covers.... I found that without a catch my car smelled bad when sitting at lights.....so the passive system is still moving the vapors decently.

I always use full synthetic and change my engine oil religiously between 4-5k miles. Haven’t had any issues.
 

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alwayshi

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Feb 22, 2019
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Oct 19, 2019
#29
  • Oct 19, 2019
  • #29
@Dark04GT
You are the man! That clarified a lot for me! And I hope for future reference for someone this thread will help them too.

I change oil every 3k miles, or every race day so no matters.

I’ll be back at the shop on Monday to finish up the lines and hopefully my tuner is free for a start up tune - just so I can limp home and to the dyno (whenever I schedule that day)

I’ll also make a thread later about the build process for anyone later looking to supercharge. Much kudos to you tho, I appreciate it!
 

Dark04GT

10 Year Member
Apr 27, 2008
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Oct 20, 2019
#30
  • Oct 20, 2019
  • #30
Awesome! Looking forward to your build thread!
 
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