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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Advice needed thanks ( Got beat by a Colbalt ss)

  • Thread starter Thread starter my90steed
  • Start date Start date Sep 29, 2008
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Boostedpimp

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May 8, 2003
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Oct 1, 2008
#21
  • Oct 1, 2008
  • #21
My little brother's 91 gt ran consistent 13.20s with bolt ons and had no problem with srt4's as allot of his friends own them.

His car had a trickflow street intake, 70mm tb, 75mm 19lb pro m, 3.73 gears, mac shories, x pipe and blowmaster dumps. He switched to manual rack and removed the heavy hatch insulation, removed front sway bar, pro 5.0 shifter, weld draglites with mt dr's and the car weighed in at 3180 with him in it.

With that said I think he should go the bolt on route first which is a bit less money but money well spent especially if he ends up having to go the blower route.. he'll already have all the extras needed to accomodation the blower
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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Oct 1, 2008
#22
  • Oct 1, 2008
  • #22
Boostedpimp said:
My little brother's 91 gt ran consistent 13.20s with bolt ons and had no problem with srt4's as allot of his friends own them.

His car had a trickflow street intake, 70mm tb, 75mm 19lb pro m, 3.73 gears, mac shories, x pipe and blowmaster dumps. He switched to manual rack and removed the heavy hatch insulation, removed front sway bar, pro 5.0 shifter, weld draglites with mt dr's and the car weighed in at 3180 with him in it.

With that said I think he should go the bolt on route first which is a bit less money but money well spent especially if he ends up having to go the blower route.. he'll already have all the extras needed to accomodation the blower
Click to expand...

You are comparing apples to oranges.

The original poster drives a 23k mile convertable.
Not a stripped down race hatch.
Any jackass can get a car to run a good time if you ruin the car in the process.
He wants to go quicker "without ragging out his 23k mile car".
 

Boostedpimp

20+ Year Stangneter
May 8, 2003
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#23
  • Oct 1, 2008
  • #23
2000xp8 said:
You are comparing apples to oranges.

The original poster drives a 23k mile convertable.
Not a stripped down race hatch.
Any jackass can get a car to run a good time if you ruin the car in the process.
He wants to go quicker "without ragging out his 23k mile car".
Click to expand...

SO basically this guys only chance to beat a 4 cylinder GM is to strap a blower to his v8? So he needs to buy a blower setup that cost thousands then pickup a set of injectors for another hundred or two and same for a maf sensor when he could have just done bolt ons to begin with?

And how the hell is the car I described above a stripped down race hatch? or how is it ruined? I was simply giving an example of what bolt ons / little weight reduction can do........ not trying to put sand in anybodies vagina

What's soo bad about investing in H/I/C ? Hell the thread below shows many people with stock motors getting great results with just a head swap why wouldn't this work for the OP?

Edelbrock Heads - Corral Forums
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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#24
  • Oct 1, 2008
  • #24
Boostedpimp said:
SO basically this guys only chance to beat a 4 cylinder GM is to strap a blower to his v8? So he needs to buy a blower setup that cost thousands then pickup a set of injectors for another hundred or two and same for a maf sensor when he could have just done bolt ons to begin with?

And how the hell is the car I described above a stripped down race hatch? or how is it ruined? I was simply giving an example of what bolt ons / little weight reduction can do........ not trying to put sand in anybodies vagina

What's soo bad about investing in H/I/C ? Hell the thread below shows many people with stock motors getting great results with just a head swap why wouldn't this work for the OP?

Edelbrock Heads - Corral Forums
Click to expand...

You may want to read the entire thread before commenting. I said above to use a h/c/i setup or a vortech.

How is that car you list stripped out race car?
No Power steering, more than likely then no A/C, no sound deadening, dumps, no sway bar. I'll guess to make it handle worse it's got drag springs, then add drag lites.
That's a race car you drive on the street, not a street car you drive on the track.

Everyone knows those mods you list produce results, but when the OP says he does'n't want to rag out is car, that eliminates all of the stuff you listed pretty much. Why own a 23,000 mile car and tear it up to make something you could of done with a $1500 rust bucket?
 

riceslayer302

Banned
Oct 3, 2006
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Oct 1, 2008
#25
  • Oct 1, 2008
  • #25
2000xp8 said:
I used to think that way, but now i'm starting to feel like it would be nice to own an unmolested car.
My car is too far gone to ever be that again.

There's also plenty of high mileage cars out there to modify, so i don't see the point in messing with a car that has low mileage.

Some people respect different things in cars, you may want power more power and then some more. Some guys like to open the hood and nothing but factory, nice and clean.
Click to expand...

some people like girls, some like guys...

if given a choice between stripping down my 23k vert mustang and losing to a slow ass cobalt... ide strip the car... it can always go back together...
 

Boostedpimp

20+ Year Stangneter
May 8, 2003
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#26
  • Oct 1, 2008
  • #26
2000xp8 said:
You may want to read the entire thread before commenting. I said above to use a h/c/i setup or a vortech.

How is that car you list stripped out race car?
No Power steering, more than likely then no A/C, no sound deadening, dumps, no sway bar. I'll guess to make it handle worse it's got drag springs, then add drag lites.
That's a race car you drive on the street, not a street car you drive on the track.

Everyone knows those mods you list produce results, but when the OP says he does'n't want to rag out is car, that eliminates all of the stuff you listed pretty much. Why own a 23,000 mile car and tear it up to make something you could of done with a $1500 rust bucket?
Click to expand...

I read the whole thread losely before posting but replied back to you hating on my suggestion

It all comes down to what the original poster wants to do with his car but I don't see why I can catch **** for simply putting another option out there for him with an example. It saves tons of money, produces the result he's looking for and is reversible with hand tools so what's the big deal? and like I said earlier if he went the supercharger route he'd end up having to do most of the bolt ons anyway for the charger.

I never said the car I mentioned was a high mileage pos like you seem to be assuming it is.. The AC was actually in the car just helps to remove the belt for the passes.. The swaybar only was removed during track time and the car is daily driven day in and day out with the manual rack and mt dr's.. Now has a t56 and a t62e and adverages about 19 mpg before she was dyno tuned. Still daily driven
 

25thmustang

Mustang Master
Sep 5, 2003
2,021
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99
Montgomery, NY
Oct 1, 2008
#27
  • Oct 1, 2008
  • #27
If I had a 23K mile car in the driveway with some bolt ons, and wanted to go faster, I would NOT hesitate to mod it. It's a fox body Mustang, do with it what you please, it isn't something rare, special, and amazing. Not to mention shouldnt we own cars to own them, not as investments?
 
5

57fairlane

New Member
Apr 2, 2005
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Oakwood, GA
Oct 1, 2008
#28
  • Oct 1, 2008
  • #28
you could be covert about it.

Throw on some windsor jr heads, cobra intake, and 1.7s with the stock cam.

A friend of mine got right at 280rwhp with a similar setup. Looks and sounds stock.
 

25thmustang

Mustang Master
Sep 5, 2003
2,021
85
99
Montgomery, NY
Oct 2, 2008
#29
  • Oct 2, 2008
  • #29
57fairlane said:
you could be covert about it.

Throw on some windsor jr heads, cobra intake, and 1.7s with the stock cam.

A friend of mine got right at 280rwhp with a similar setup. Looks and sounds stock.
Click to expand...

Could be done with E7s also, and Im sure a well done ported stock intake and stock cam. Would be fun to say stock heads, stock cam, and stock intake, not be lying, yet be able to knock down mid 12s all day long.

 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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Oct 2, 2008
#30
  • Oct 2, 2008
  • #30
25thmustang said:
Could be done with E7s also, and Im sure a well done ported stock intake and stock cam. Would be fun to say stock heads, stock cam, and stock intake, not be lying, yet be able to knock down mid 12s all day long.

Click to expand...

That was my point. It can be done in a way that's tasteful and effective. In most cases i wouldn't want ported E7's, but in this case, i'd say it's a pretty decent idea.

Stripping weight out of it is not the answer.

And as far as you saying it's not rare, well, a low mileage fox is starting to become a rare item.

With that said, some of you guys aren't reading the entire post, you keep making the point that it's ok to modify it, no reason to say that because nobody said don't mod it, all that was said was to pick the modifications carefully.
 

monte87

Founding Member
Feb 26, 2001
876
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49
new york
Oct 2, 2008
#31
  • Oct 2, 2008
  • #31
H/C/I on stock bottomend will get you 13.6's-13.2's all day long in a vert with 4.10's, short belt, e-fan, full exhaust and all the normal mods. Swapping in some good LCA's and sticky tires will drop it a bit more 13.0-13.2's. with colder air, From experinece.......
Thing is-if your running at the track, You'll get 1 run until they throw you out of the track if you dont have a roll bar on a vert. Now if you spray a 150 shot-You will get into the 12's. A friend of mine ran a 90 MK7 LSC same set up and ran 12's-So it can be done with a heavy car, just more $$$... Patienece and technique.
 
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