Hey everyone, I picked up a 1990 GT convertible last year and it needs a lot of work. I plan on a full restore as I go along. This will be a weekend driver but I also want it to be street fast. I have done a little research but I was hoping you all can help me with what to do in order? I would like to be able to drive it as I work on it to keep the motivation up if you know what I mean? Budget is not a real issue although I don't want a drag car either. Thanks
Advice on my project.
- Thread starter Shady6000
- Start date
- Jul 12, 2017
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So far I have only got it running with a new fuel pump and fuel tank. I picked up a 130Amp alternator also but will be installing that later. I can share pics later.
Lol I was just mentioning that because I did't want people to get the wrong impression. I dont want to race it, just a weekend driver with some good HP.
It's a convertible.
Maximum motorsports full length subframe connectors should be the absolute first thing you do.
You don't say if it's a manual or auto.
General maintenance is where you have to begin after subframes.
As you find faults in the brakes, suspension replace/upgrade.
When you get to the rear, do a full rebuild, 3.55 or 3.73's for a manual, 3.73's or 4.10's for an auto.
Forget about engine mods until the rest of the car is complete. A powerful convertible with a crap suspension and crummy brakes is horrible to drive.
Maximum motorsports full length subframe connectors should be the absolute first thing you do.
You don't say if it's a manual or auto.
General maintenance is where you have to begin after subframes.
As you find faults in the brakes, suspension replace/upgrade.
When you get to the rear, do a full rebuild, 3.55 or 3.73's for a manual, 3.73's or 4.10's for an auto.
Forget about engine mods until the rest of the car is complete. A powerful convertible with a crap suspension and crummy brakes is horrible to drive.
x2 with the connectors. I'd add a strut brace as well. Anything you can do to stiffen the body is the best place to start IMO.
Chassis and brakes would be my main focus point at first. I just mean getting the brakes in good order not necessarily a five lug or rear disk upgrade/conversion. Next, once you have those areas sorted I'd looking into either putting disk on the back or doing the five lug conversion.
All that stuff takes time and seem kinda boring as you don't really see results or feel them like you do with engine mods. So, for motivational purposes I would suggest making a list of smaller items that need to be addressed that you can work on. Like weather stripping, cleaning up the interior/installing new carpet, re-dying plastic bits in the interior, getting the sounds system operational or upgrading. Most of that stuff needs to be done and can be a bit more gratifying then replacing brake pads and installing bushings. Deep cleaning under the hood is satisfying as well.
Most likely after driving it a bit the car will tell you where to start!
All that stuff takes time and seem kinda boring as you don't really see results or feel them like you do with engine mods. So, for motivational purposes I would suggest making a list of smaller items that need to be addressed that you can work on. Like weather stripping, cleaning up the interior/installing new carpet, re-dying plastic bits in the interior, getting the sounds system operational or upgrading. Most of that stuff needs to be done and can be a bit more gratifying then replacing brake pads and installing bushings. Deep cleaning under the hood is satisfying as well.
Most likely after driving it a bit the car will tell you where to start!
Thanks for the reply. It is a automatic. I actually have sub frame connectors in my amazon cart right now.
Thanks for the reply. I do plan to do the 5 lug conversion and all of the necessary suspension upgrades. Can you chime in on the 4 wheel disk brakes? I am currently debating on that. Seems the value for the dollar is not that great with good front brakes.
What is your suggestion on the weld in style over the bolt in style sub frame connectors?
Bolt in are useless, you want full length weld in style subframes.. make sure the installer follows the directions.
Agreed, all bolt in is going to do is tear a hole in your frame.
Buy the Maximum motorsports subs, stick to the entire catalog since you aren't worried about financial constraints.
This way if you work your way up to their torque arm, it will mate up properly.
Only other kit i'd probably consider would be the stifflers sub kit with all the braces.
Buy the Maximum motorsports subs, stick to the entire catalog since you aren't worried about financial constraints.
This way if you work your way up to their torque arm, it will mate up properly.
Only other kit i'd probably consider would be the stifflers sub kit with all the braces.
Something like this is what I was talking about.
lmr.com
Honestly if you were going for rear disk I'd start doing my homework and piecing to gather a 5 lug rear disk conversion package myself. I have yet to do it myself, but have followed several threads on here documenting the task quite well. I know you said money wasn't really a hold up, but you can save a lot of money buying the parts on your own instead of a kit.
1979-1993 Fox Body Brake Kits - LMR.com
Upgrade your Fox Body's brake system with a performance Fox Body Mustang brake kit!
lmr.com
Honestly if you were going for rear disk I'd start doing my homework and piecing to gather a 5 lug rear disk conversion package myself. I have yet to do it myself, but have followed several threads on here documenting the task quite well. I know you said money wasn't really a hold up, but you can save a lot of money buying the parts on your own instead of a kit.
I agree with the comments on full length sub frame connectors. If you don't take any other advice just take the advice on getting the Maximum Motorsports full length kit. No flexibility on that choice......did y'all catch that. 
There are a few issues with stock brakes.
When they work right in stock form under normal driving, they are pretty decent.
But when worked hard, they are complete garbage. So stops 1 and 2 are good, 3 will be worse, 4 will be start praying.
They are undersized in the front (and look terrible with larger wheels). Pain to work on and good rotors can get expensive.
Not sure how many bad things I can say about drums, again, they look horrible with open wheels, serious pain to work on, inconsistent and can be unreliable.
A few years back I sold my last vehicle that had them, I hope to never work on them again.
I would not invest a cent in 4 lug brake parts of any kind.
Most good wheels are 5 lug and the brake choices are unlimited when you switch to 94/95 spindles. Allows you to use any front brake set from 94 to 04.
For rears, do whatever conversion you like, but northracecar brackets with fox length axles is the wise choice.
With 4wd discs the car will stop straight and consistent.
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