After Sitting 2 Months Wont Start

bigdog225 · Oct 22, 2012

2000 v-6 was running great when I parked it. After 2 months of sitting it just cranks but won't start. I noticed the fuel was pretty low so I added fuel and a bit of seafoam then changed the fuel filter in case water got into it and clogged the filter. Still nothing. Pulled the cyl 1 plug and left attached to the plug wire and made sure it had spark. After that I realized I wasn't hearing the fuel pump kick on. Checked the switch in the trunk and all was good there. Pulled out my scanner and checked codes. P1260 & p1233. After looking these up I remember initially when I came out to crank it the first time I put my expedition key in and when it didnt turn I realized I had the correct key in the other pocket and and then began the 2nd attempt and it would only crank. Not sure if somehow that is the cause for all my troubles or coincidence. I erased the codes but the car still will not start and the codes have not come back. with the key in the on position the theft light disapears after 3 seconds. While cranking there is no flashing of the theft light that I have read about on others. Thanks for any and all help.

jrod2423 · Oct 22, 2012

usually when a mustang sits it seems like the fuel pump goes bad, you might check the pressure on your fuel rail and if there's no pressure than your fuel pump is bad, another way is just turn you key into the on position and see if you can hear the fuel pump turning on, but i would check fuel pressure before i call it the fuel pump with the key method. i had the same problem with a key though my dad was so used to his f250 key when i gave him mine he still used his and it would unlock the doors but it ended up jamming my ignition for a little while so id be careful about using a different key in the ignition.

bigdog225 · Oct 22, 2012

With the P1260 -Theft Detected - Vehicle Immobilized
&
With the P1233 - Fuel Pump Driver Module Disabled or Offline

&

Im sure im not hearing the fuel pump kick on. I just want to make sure there is not something stupid causing all of this before going through the hassle of replacing the fuel pump if its something else causing the problem. Doing some searching before posting this I saw a thread where someone had the same issue with the P1233 code and replaced the fuel pump and FPDM and still had the code. The thread ended there. I dont wanna be "that guy" lol.

While typing this I must also note I remember before checking the codes I unplugged the harness going to the FPDM and turned the key to check for power in the harness with a meter. No power there as far as I could tell. Also all fuses are good. Im far from a car repair guy but was trying some things I was reading in other threads.

Thanks for any insight guys. Really frustrating...

Noobz347 · Oct 22, 2012

Call the dealership.

wmburns · Oct 22, 2012

Crank with no start check list. Pay SPECIAL attention to the part about "checking all fuses".

Next pay special attention to the part about the "fuel pump MUST run at initial key on". Don't look anywhere else until that problem is solved.

Just wondering, do you plan on doing the work yourself? As a reminder this is the tech section.

Also note that the quality of the help you get is largely affected by the quality of the information that you provide.

Garbage in = Garbage out.

Crank with no start check list.

Check all fuses. Check the trunk mounted IFS cut off switch.

Check the battery and battery terminals. Are they clean and tight? Is the battery fully charged? Today's cars simply will not run right without a strong battery and charging system. Do not cut corners here!

Unlock the driver's door with the key. Use the remote key FOB to lock and unlock the car. On some systems, this will reset PATS after a battery disconnect.

Turn the key on but do not crank. Confirm that the theft light goes off after a 3 second "prove out". If not, STOP and find out why.

Turn the key on but do not crank. Listen for the fuel pump to run for a few seconds. A helper may make this easier. If the fuel pump never runs, STOP and find out why.

Does the theft light blink or on solid during cranking? If so, STOP and find out why.

Hold the throttle half way open during cranking. What changes?

Disconnect the MAF electrical connector. Does it start now?

If you follow all of the steps and post the results likely you will get much better response than the 1st time.

Good luck.

You REALLY need a repair manual on DVD. Contact me via PM if interested in getting a copy.

bigdog225 · Oct 22, 2012

Thanks for the insight wmburns.

I actually disconnected the battery on a break from work about an hour ago and was going to reconnect it on my lunch break and try the fob lock unlock trick that I noticed is on your list. I also actually went to try the passenger door unlock this weekend and there is no option for a key on this car on the passenger side.

I will go over the checklist and report what I find.

I have a chiltons repair manual. Is that the same as the dvd you speak of?

wmburns · Oct 22, 2012

The Chilton's manual is good for the home mechanic. The Ford service manual is far more complete AND includes a full set of wiring diagrams. I happen to use both depending upon the job.

Note the order of the tests are important. But for the 96+ MY, a PATS problem will not stop the fuel pump from running.

Note, if this should turn out to be a totally locked up fuel pump, the first electrical test should be to CONFIRM +12 volts at the trunk mounted IFS switch with the key on.

If no voltage, look for a bad fuse, bad CCRM, bad ignition switch, or wiring fault.

If there is voltage, focus on the fuel pump or FPDM.

bigdog225 · Oct 22, 2012

Great info. Ill report back soon.

bigdog225 · Oct 23, 2012

Crank with no start check list.

Check all fuses. Check the trunk mounted IFS cut off switch.
All fuses good. IFS switch has not been triggered to pop up and has 12 volts at the harness. Also 12 volts at the harness to the FPDM

Check the battery and battery terminals. Are they clean and tight? Is the battery fully charged? Today's cars simply will not run right without a strong battery and charging system. Do not cut corners here!
Terminals look great. Took the battery to be tested and charged as it has been sitting awhile and weak from all the previous attempts to crank. Tightened terminals good.

Unlock the driver's door with the key. Use the remote key FOB to lock and unlock the car. On some systems, this will reset PATS after a battery disconnect.
After connecting the battery pressed lock then unlock and used the key in drivers door turning to unlock position. (No key area on passenger door)

Turn the key on but do not crank. Confirm that the theft light goes off after a 3 second "prove out". If not, STOP and find out why.
Turned key to on. Alarm light goes out after 3 secs.

Turn the key on but do not crank. Listen for the fuel pump to run for a few seconds. A helper may make this easier. If the fuel pump never runs, STOP and find out why.
With key on I do not hear the fuel pump however I dont hear it in my 96 Cobra either. Didn't have anyone else around yesterday to help during this time. I can recheck today. Also is there an easy way to disconnect a fuel line and turn key in on position and see if fuel is coming out?

Does the theft light blink or on solid during cranking? If so, STOP and find out why.
No. It is not seen at all when trying to crank.

Hold the throttle half way open during cranking. What changes?
It sounded like it might turn over for 1 sec then didn't and continued to just crank as if the pedal was not pushed. Pretty sure I also smelled raw fuel after doing this.

Disconnect the MAF electrical connector. Does it start now?
No

Thanks again for any help

95Vert383AOD · Oct 23, 2012

Always make sure that fuel cutoff button in the trunk didn't get bumped

jrod2423 · Oct 25, 2012

another thing then i would try that would tell you about the fuel pump is go in the engine compartment fuse box and take the relay out of the spot for the fuel pump and switch it with the one for your a/c and then give it a crank i've seen this work before so might give it a quick try.

wmburns · Oct 25, 2012

For the 99+ Model year, once power is confirmed at the IFS switch and the fuel pump is not heard running, focus next on confirming the fuel pump itself. From the fuel pump driver module there are two wires that go direct to the fuel pump. The colors are RD/BK and BN/PK. Either pick up the wires at the FPDM or the round connector near the rear center of the gas tank.

Inject +/- 12 volts (using a fused jumper or battery charger) towards the fuel pump. If the fuel pump runs, focus on the FPDM.

If the fuel pump does not run or the current draw is very high (>10 amps) suspect a bad fuel pump.

To jrod2423: the 96+ model year does not use a fuel pump relay that can be swapped as in older model years. The fuel pump and PCM is controlled inside the CCRM.

bigdog225 · Oct 26, 2012

Does it matter which of the 2 wires I inject the 12v too or are you saying to inject both wires with 12v. Thanks again.

wmburns · Oct 26, 2012

If the polarity is reversed, the fuel pump will run backwards. In this case it does not matter as this is a basic functional test of the fuel pump. But if you think about it for a moment, wouldn't you suspect that the RD/BK wire is negative?

bigdog225 · Oct 26, 2012

From now on I will lol but RD/BK to me sounded to me like a tricky color for one wire. I related Red as power and BLK as negative but i've only worked with simple audio wiring and battery terminals. The two together through me off. Thanks for educational info as I'll now forever relate RD/BK as a ground. Ill test it out tonight and report back. Thanks again for the walk through.

bigdog225 · Oct 27, 2012

In response to wmburns post:

For the 99+ Model year, once power is confirmed at the IFS switch and the fuel pump is not heard running, focus next on confirming the fuel pump itself. From the fuel pump driver module there are two wires that go direct to the fuel pump. The colors are RD/BK and BN/PK. Either pick up the wires at the FPDM or the round connector near the rear center of the gas tank.

Inject +/- 12 volts (using a fused jumper or battery charger) towards the fuel pump. If the fuel pump runs, focus on the FPDM.
After trying this step, still the fuel pump did not kick on.

If the fuel pump does not run or the current draw is very high (>10 amps) suspect a bad fuel pump.

Next I added a squirt of fuel into the intake while I had someone crank and it started up for a moment. Went to the dealer and got the fuel tank filler grommet ($25), then got the fuel pump from the local part store ($110). Install planned for Monday.

bigdog225 · Oct 31, 2012

Thankfully, after the fuel pump replacement she has come back to life. Thanks again and this thread can be considered closed.

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