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Aftermarket and Mustangs don't mix....

  • Thread starter Thread starter SmockDoiley
  • Start date Start date Aug 24, 2007
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SmockDoiley

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Jun 14, 2003
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Aug 24, 2007
#1
  • Aug 24, 2007
  • #1
...and I'll explain why. As some of you know, I've been redoing my 460/Tremec setup with all new goodies. I kinda went all out, but I've run into a lot of assinine problems that I shouldnt be.

Allow me to review these issues so I can vent about how the aftermarket screws up more with Fords than Chevys.

First, I purchased QA1 control arms, a K-member, and struts. Per QA1 you are suppose to reuse your factory control arm bolts so I did. Problem? They drilled the holes so close to a steel plate, that there is no possible way to get a bolt head to fit. There is maybe a 1/4 inch between the bolt hole and the "roof" of the K-member. How do you fit a nut or bolt in there without shaving off a flat?


Second issue. I wanted to switch to an electronic setup for the speedo which includes an electronic speedometer and sending unit that bolts into the transmission, both from autometer. This allows me to dial in any gear ratio and so forth and give me a cleaner install. Problem? I have to grind off half of the mounting tab on the tranny to get this large sending unit to slide into the speedo gear hole. That wasnt in the instructions.


Third issue. I bought a March serpentine pulley setup for the 460, but the spacers and bracket holes dont work with my water pump. So I had to just use the pulleys and reuse my ugly homemade bracket. It would be nice to spend $350 for a setup that works.


Fourth issue. The aluminum rack bushings from Steeda are suppose to work with any tubular K-member. But since the design for bolting on the rack is different on a tubular K-member, you cant. So I went with prothane bushings. No returned answers from Steeda.


Fifth issue. X2 balljoints dont work with tubular K-members. I learned this after removing the originals from the brand new tubular control arms which were tacked in place.


Before any of you mention research, I did plenty and I dont buy anything unless I'm certain it should work. Not to mention all the brand names I just used, Steeda, QA1, autometer, and March.

Most of this doesnt even relate to the 460 so take heed when doing your project.
 
8

86bluecobra

Advanced Member
Dec 20, 2004
4,265
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B.C. Canada
Aug 24, 2007
#2
  • Aug 24, 2007
  • #2
I have often times found that things are not quite as bolt and play as you would like. There is a fair bit of modding needed to install modding parts.
 

302RollinHard

New Member
Sep 26, 2005
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Columbus, OH
Aug 24, 2007
#3
  • Aug 24, 2007
  • #3
hence the old addage that nothing is a true bolt on.
 
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SmockDoiley

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#4
  • Aug 24, 2007
  • #4
I know that, but parts from the same company should work, and I have no clue how to fix this issue with the K-member.
 
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Daggar

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Jul 19, 2004
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Aug 24, 2007
#5
  • Aug 24, 2007
  • #5
Def some "good to knows" in there. I hope you don't mind that I cleaned up your initial post just a little for reading ease.
 
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SmockDoiley

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Aug 24, 2007
#6
  • Aug 24, 2007
  • #6
NOIDONTMINDATALLINFACTITSGREAT!!!!!!!!!!111!!!1!!!one
 

Mustang78

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Feb 8, 2006
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Aberdeen, WA
Aug 24, 2007
#7
  • Aug 24, 2007
  • #7
damn, you might have to grind off half the bolt head, or go to some hardened hex head bolts...grade 8.8 or higher would be best

~Mark~
 
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weldflash

New Member
Aug 23, 2007
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Aug 25, 2007
#8
  • Aug 25, 2007
  • #8
Dude have you ever bought a part that fit...LOL J/K
 
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SmockDoiley

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Aug 25, 2007
#9
  • Aug 25, 2007
  • #9
Being that I work on Fords, no I've never gotten a part that fit. As for grade 8, it wont be as strong as the factory bolts. Its not the strength, its trying to get the bolt to fit. I cant believe nobody here has taken apart lower control arms before.
 
D

dtlionsfan

Member
Nov 12, 2005
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Aug 25, 2007
#10
  • Aug 25, 2007
  • #10
The only thing good out of the box is doughnuts.
 
7

71swing

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Aug 18, 2006
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Omaha,NE
Aug 25, 2007
#11
  • Aug 25, 2007
  • #11
SmockDoiley said:
Being that I work on Fords, no I've never gotten a part that fit. As for grade 8, it wont be as strong as the factory bolts. Its not the strength, its trying to get the bolt to fit. I cant believe nobody here has taken apart lower control arms before.
Click to expand...

I guess I'm just having a hard time picturing your problem with the bolts on the lower control arms. Not sure what you mean.

I went with a PA Racing tubular k-member and had no problems with the fit or with control arm bolts. I reused my factory bolts.
 
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SmockDoiley

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Jun 14, 2003
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Aug 26, 2007
#12
  • Aug 26, 2007
  • #12
On the back side of the back bolt for the control arms, both sides, they drilled the hole way too close to the top piece of metal that bolts to the body of the car. There is not enough room to get a bolt of a nut in there without hacking up the member or shaving off a flat from the fastener. Its piss-poor design from QA1 which is suppose to be a good company.
 
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SmockDoiley

New Member
Jun 14, 2003
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Aug 27, 2007
#13
  • Aug 27, 2007
  • #13
Ok, fixed the control arm problem. I ground down the lip on the nut and it fits in there snug. No thanks to anybody here, but at least thats one problem down.

Not to sound like a jerk but what happened to this site?? It use to be that you could get real tech help with any problem. Now whenever I post I get a bunch of newbie posters essentially telling me, Oh well, crap happens, good luck figuring it out on your own. Thanks for nothing Stangnet. Maybe you should spend less time editing my posts and spend more time helping me fix my problem so everybody can learn.
 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is
May 1, 2005
3,015
1
79
7200 feet
Aug 27, 2007
#14
  • Aug 27, 2007
  • #14
SmockDoiley said:
Not to sound like a jerk but what happened to this site?? It use to be that you could get real tech help with any problem. Now whenever I post I get a bunch of newbie posters essentially telling me, Oh well, crap happens, good luck figuring it out on your own. Thanks for nothing Stangnet. Maybe you should spend less time editing my posts and spend more time helping me fix my problem so everybody can learn.
Click to expand...

 
S

SmockDoiley

New Member
Jun 14, 2003
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San Diego, CA
Aug 27, 2007
#15
  • Aug 27, 2007
  • #15
Thanks for being a perfect example man.
 
D

Daggar

New Member
Jul 19, 2004
3,902
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Aug 28, 2007
#16
  • Aug 28, 2007
  • #16
SmockDoiley said:
Ok, fixed the control arm problem. I ground down the lip on the nut and it fits in there snug. No thanks to anybody here, but at least thats one problem down.

Not to sound like a jerk but what happened to this site?? It use to be that you could get real tech help with any problem. Now whenever I post I get a bunch of newbie posters essentially telling me, Oh well, crap happens, good luck figuring it out on your own. Thanks for nothing Stangnet. Maybe you should spend less time editing my posts and spend more time helping me fix my problem so everybody can learn.
Click to expand...


Don't let the door hit you in the rear on the way out. Your post was edited because it was all but unreadable. It was an effort to help with clarity so that you might get some answers. Rest assured that it will be a long time coming in the future.

--thread closed--
 
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