Aftermarket oil pan

95riosnake · Mar 15, 2010

Before anyone asks, I have done a search on 4 different mustang sites for about 4 hours total and cannot find a straight answer to this question.

I am putting a 347 stroker in soon and with a main girdle I cannot use the stock pan. I have been searching the internet high and low for an answer to my question of what oil pan to use with no luck. I keep reading about clearance issues with the clutch cable, with long tubes, etc, etc... but none of the threads ever seem to come up with a final result of what does or does not work. So far it looks like the options are Milodon, Moroso, and Canton (all of which may or may not have different style pans to choose from).

I have the following that it needs to work with:
347 with main girdle
MAC 1 5/8 long tubes
Stock K-member

Any help is appreciated... I'm all searched out, lol.

revhead347 · Mar 15, 2010

I have a Moroso 7 qt with BBK headers, and a stock K-member. No clearance issues whatsoever. I do not have a main girdle though.

Kurt

95riosnake · Mar 15, 2010

Those are bbk long tubes right?

revhead347 · Mar 15, 2010

Yeah, BBK 1 5/8 longtubes for an SN-95.

Kurt

Adam95GT · Mar 15, 2010

is there a specific style oil pan we need to use??? I need to order one for my build as well as a dipstick... Just need to know what to look for??? Will a fox pan work does it have to be double hump??? not sure about all this but need info ASAP.

hollywoodstang · Mar 16, 2010

The canton or any style of t-sump road-race pan will not work on 94-95 cars because it does not clear the clutch cable to the fork and the bell housing guide hole, If you have auto no problem. If you have 5 speed you gonna have to "Make it work"!

Get the deep sump, I've learned the hard way

95riosnake · Mar 16, 2010

The problem with me running a deep sump is ground clearance, does anyone have a picture of the clutch fork/bellhousing clearance problem? If it's something that a little tig work can fix I might still be able to get it to work.

hollywoodstang · Mar 16, 2010

View attachment 226101

View attachment 226102

View attachment 226103

As you can see the T Kick out blocks the hole, If you want to make the direct fit for sn95 cars you will have to order direct from canton, They can fab it up for you, I too have ground clearance issue, That's why i went with T-Pan, But it turned out to be more pain the butt, My pan is currently at canton to get it cleared, It is extra $75 to modify it. But before you purchase it you can tell them it is for 94-95 then they will make the necessary adjustment for you so you can just "Bolt-On"

Good luck man

hollywoodstang · Mar 16, 2010

Just in case if you did not know, The canton deep sump(Non-T-style pan) is almost same depth as t-style ones (inch and a half, 1.5 inch difference between the T-pan and Deep pan), You will not have ground clearance issue, And it is easier to live with, if i were to get these pans, I would not had this problem,
15-620 - 302 DEEP REAR SUMP STREET PAN or should have got this one 13-600 - 302 STOCK ELIMINATOR REAR SUMP PAN

95riosnake · Mar 16, 2010

hollywoodstang said:
Just in case if you did not know, The canton deep sump(Non-T-style pan) is almost same depth as t-style ones (inch and a half, 1.5 inch difference between the T-pan and Deep pan), You will not have ground clearance issue, And it is easier to live with, if i were to get these pans, I would not had this problem,
15-620 - 302 DEEP REAR SUMP STREET PAN or should have got this one 13-600 - 302 STOCK ELIMINATOR REAR SUMP PAN

How far above the bottom of your K-member is the bottom of your t-sump pan? If the bottom of their deep sump pan will end up higher than the bottom of my k-member I'll be happy with that. I just want to use the k-member as protection for the oil pan. The roads here in Pittsburgh are ruthless on a lowered car so I have to keep that in mind.

95riosnake · Mar 16, 2010

Just emailed canton because I see in the description that it says it fits a sportsman block (talking about your second link), so I wonder if that means it isn't meant for a factory block? I'm not sure the difference between the two concerning the oil pan.

I also asked them if it will fit with a main girdle.

I really like that this pan uses a factory pickup and maintains factory dimensions overall. If it will fit the main girdle I'll be a happy man lol

I'll update everyone with their response.

hollywoodstang · Mar 16, 2010

95riosnake said:
How far above the bottom of your K-member is the bottom of your t-sump pan? If the bottom of their deep sump pan will end up higher than the bottom of my k-member I'll be happy with that. I just want to use the k-member as protection for the oil pan. The roads here in Pittsburgh are ruthless on a lowered car so I have to keep that in mind.

I know the deep sump will be almost dead even with your stock k-member, may be little lower like .5 inch. We got our share of humps and bumps here in California too, You really don't need the road-race pan for the daily driver or the weekend street strip car, I wish i just bought a deep sump pan or the stock eliminator pan and add the bigger oil cooler to hold the extra quart of oil.

My car is very low too, but i would worry too much, Just be careful when going over humps or bumps and you will be fine.

hollywoodstang · Mar 16, 2010

95riosnake said:
Just emailed canton because I see in the description that it says it fits a sportsman block (talking about your second link), so I wonder if that means it isn't meant for a factory block? I'm not sure the difference between the two concerning the oil pan.

I also asked them if it will fit with a main girdle.

I really like that this pan uses a factory pickup and maintains factory dimensions overall. If it will fit the main girdle I'll be a happy man lol

I'll update everyone with their response.

Dan

Make your life easier and call and talk to Nick @Canton, He is very helpful, Tell him Leo sent you because you got 94-95 mustang as well. he will tell you exactly what you need

95riosnake · Mar 16, 2010

hollywoodstang said:
Dan

Make your life easier and call and talk to Nick @Canton, He is very helpful, Tell him Leo sent you because you got 94-95 mustang as well. he will tell you exactly what you need

Thanks, I'll give them a call tomorrow during my lunch break and see what he has for me.

revhead347 · Mar 16, 2010

Disregard this post.

Kurt

revhead347 · Mar 16, 2010

I run the Moroso pan, and it is about dead even with the stock K-member. My honest recommendation for a street engine is to just run a stock oil pan. A bigger oil pan only means more oil to change every oil change. If I was revving an engine high enough to require a girdle, I would just get a 4 bolt main block.

Kurt

hollywoodstang · Mar 16, 2010

What Kurt say is very true, on daily driver or street car, you do not need aftermarket oil pan, But if you absolutely want to upgrade to something and itching to do so like i do or did, Get 13-600 - 302 STOCK ELIMINATOR REAR SUMP PAN, Same as stock and has built in scraper, Bolt on and be done. But no oil level bung, you will either have to make one or just get rid of the stocker and check oil often.

95riosnake · Mar 17, 2010

I do not want an aftermarket oil pan, I want a main girdle. Unfortunately I can't run a stock pan with it. I'm investing over $5k into this motor so I will feel much better with a girdle on it since plans call for a procharger next winter. In response to going to a 4 bolt main block, I can't justify the extra expense of upgrading to one when the cost of a main girdle plus a pan to fit is less than $600.

I'll be calling Canton at lunch today to get it all figured out. The email was no help, whoever responded to me from Canton just copied and pasted the description from their website back to me about the stock eliminator pan.

revhead347 · Mar 17, 2010

The girdle has nothing to do with a blower. The girdle is just there to keep the mains from walking when you rev it to 7000 rpms. It doesn't make the block any stronger.

Kurt

95riosnake · Mar 17, 2010

revhead347 said:
The girdle has nothing to do with a blower. The girdle is just there to keep the mains from walking when you rev it to 7000 rpms. It doesn't make the block any stronger.

Kurt

You're right about the blower, the blocks will split through the lifter valley with or without a main girdle.

That said, Woody at fordstrokers seems to know his stuff and he said the girdle is not a bad idea, I plan to rev this thing to probably 6400 or so, I just want to make sure the mains stay put. It's easier to put on a main girdle now, than to change my mind and have to pull the motor if I want to install one later.

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