air check valve question

For smog testing, you'd be better off to buy some bulk vacuum line and put the pastic tubes back together.

Yeah, you mentioned "wires" but you meant vac lines, right? They get brittle over time so good to replace if you're concerned about emissions.

If you did mean wires, then those are connected to the solenoids that control the check valve and diverter valve. If the wires are not connected then vac won't be passed to the valves. You will get error codes if the solenoids are not working properly.

Actually, the first thing is you're not understanding the smog system. It doesn't actually take smog and put it into your system, heh heh, it takes fresh air and puts it into the system. The vac lines are used to open and close the valves, they don't carry gases, just vacuum (or suction) to move the valve open or closed. Here's the breakdown of the system:

The thermactor (smog) system sends fresh air from the pump to either the heads or cats. The bypass solenoid (on passenger wheel well) sends vac to the bypass valve (valve closest to the pump) to control whether the fresh air is sent to the atmosphere or down the line to the next valve which is the diverter valve. The diverter solenoid (the other solenoid on passenger wheel well) sends vac to the diverter valve (furthest from the pump) which has 2 hoses going off of it either to the heads (upper hose) or the cats (lower hose).

At idle the air is going to the heads to increase temps for cleaner emissions. Once the cats heat up, the fresh air is diverted to them in order to provide cleaner emissions.

If you look at the setup on your car while reading this you'll have it figgered out in no time.

Hope that helps.