Alarming issue

Scot krongaard said:

I removed the whole damn thing. I re attached the ign wires to origional. It keeps blowing fuel pump fuses and still will not start. Scan tool will tell me whats wrong? Im sitting here with a car with. Fifty miles on it and cant break it in. This is torture!

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08GT500 said:

Hi
Sorry this is giving you all that trouble, I’ll do what I can to help & will look for your responses, realize it’s frustrating but walking into this stressed will not only bring closure, to miss something simple, is unhealthy.
Get stressed, Walk away, forget it for a few. relax & then resume.
It will be taken care of whether it likes it or not.
Y, Can override PATS.
QUESTION(S):
Have access to a Scan-tool (if not, borrow one). Better still if you have a handheld tuner/programmer for your car.(?)
Do you have one or 2 keys with the RFID chip as indicated below (?)
CHECK:
Either way, be sure NOTHING else but your Key is on the ring, keys are not near each other if you have an additional, be sure nothing else on either Key’s ring when you go to use it, e.g.. other vehicles keys Speedpass, etc.
QUESTION(S):
After your pump wiring was repaired, the engine started, shut down. Question is what’s occurring now, you blowing pump fuses-e.g. are we presently in “a no crank” or “cranks but no start” situation(?).
IF it’s cranking, or not, or you getting a fuel pump prime when the key is turned on?

TEST:
The EEC, if it’s PATS related, will set a DTC with a basic Scan-tool, however that alone will not repair it.
LEARN:
Most of the time there is a wiring issue or a fuse that begins the PATS ‘rat race’, check fuses with a handheld VOM. Also, check for voltage on one side of the fuse while grounding the meter lead to a good chassis ground.
USE THIS TO AVOID THE SAME:
Stress began a 20hr PATS related escapade many years back, PATS, harness, was only a fuse blown I’d visually verified in lieu of testing. TEST FUSES AND POWER TO WHERE THEY SIT WITH A VOM.
I’ll Never forget that, and was working on a Customers Car, I had to eat it. Idiot..
TEST:
Also, check your wiring where you were, your battery voltage with key in the Run position. Check ALL grounds. Battery to block, block to Chassis, Battery to EEC chassis to ensure it is solid and of low Resistance.
Check ALL fuses and establish a connection with the EEC via Scantool so we know as of right now, it’s still communicating.
Check that your door switches are functionally correct with your FOB, or Key. Another common PATS issue- Door locks.
ATTEMPT:
Try locking and unlocking the driver's door and locking/unlocking the door with the remote FOB. Sometimes this will reset PATS after a battery disconnect.
If NECESSARY..
Although I think you can deal with this, there’s a possibility of a relearn requirement.
If it comes down to it, is PATS related & stress is getting to you, be aware that almost any locksmith (types that travel to your door) can reprogram a PATS key. This avoids having to tow to a dealer/mechanic.
NOTE:
Any handheld tuner (not a typical ScanTool) that is able to modify the car's tune can disable PATS. I.e., SCT, Diablosport, etc..
TEST:
Leave ignition on until the LED starts to flash a 2 digit code (sequence/pause/sequence) as I’d mentioned previously...
Check for the following codes:
Code flashes:
1:3 Key code not received. Is key screened by other keys or objects? Try different key: if okay then first key is faulty.
1:4 Partial code only received. Try again. If not okay use different key.
1:5 Key not programmed into PATS. Program key(s) using locksmith/dealer, or 2 keys of your own which work.
1:6 Faulty link between PATS module and EECV. Go to dealer.
REFERENCE:
While I’m waiting for your response, you mine- please refer to the following, specifically in the 98’ Mustang GT column. engine immobilizer.
https://wh2kwcoqpe3ay6wb3tnxavix-wp...p-content/uploads/2015/10/Ford-PATS-System.pd
Best of luck!
John
Crank Sensor is one of the most typical “Crank, no start” issues on these vehicles.

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