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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Alignment specs

  • Thread starter Thread starter 68conv4sp
  • Start date Start date May 3, 2006
6

68conv4sp

New Member
Oct 24, 2005
270
0
0
May 3, 2006
#1
  • May 3, 2006
  • #1
The front end is complete (for now) w/ cut springs, KYBs, 15/16 sway bar, '05Mustang rims and 225/50/16 KDs. What caster, camber, toe settings would be best for Autocross? TIA
 

2bav8

Founding Member
Nov 30, 1998
2,511
1
47
Mesa, AZ
May 3, 2006
#2
  • May 3, 2006
  • #2
Here is what I use:
Caster 3°
Camber -1°
Toe 1/8"
 

zookeeper

Founding Member
Aug 25, 2001
3,415
63
109
Rogue River, Oregon
May 3, 2006
#3
  • May 3, 2006
  • #3
I use pretty much the same set-up with the exception of camber. I use 1/2 degree negative camber and see no uneven tire wear at all and it keeps the tires away from the fenders as a side bonus. You can't always get the full 3 degrees caster, I wanted 3 but had to settle for 2 1/2. I doubt anyone could tell the difference.
 

2bav8

Founding Member
Nov 30, 1998
2,511
1
47
Mesa, AZ
May 3, 2006
#4
  • May 3, 2006
  • #4
Zoo, do you have adjustable strut rods?
 

zookeeper

Founding Member
Aug 25, 2001
3,415
63
109
Rogue River, Oregon
May 3, 2006
#5
  • May 3, 2006
  • #5
No, just whatever adjustment is on the stockers. The shop I took it to tried to get 3 degrees, but ran out of adjustment.
 

2bav8

Founding Member
Nov 30, 1998
2,511
1
47
Mesa, AZ
May 3, 2006
#6
  • May 3, 2006
  • #6
Adjustable strut rods, in addition to making the alignment a whole lot easier allow for more caster to be added as the caster is being added via the strut rod itself and not shims. Plus, a heim joint up front eliminates all binding associated with rubber and poly bushings. Its really a win-win situation except for your wallet
 
6

68conv4sp

New Member
Oct 24, 2005
270
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0
May 3, 2006
#7
  • May 3, 2006
  • #7
2bav8, do you mean 1/8" toe out or in? Thanks.
 

zookeeper

Founding Member
Aug 25, 2001
3,415
63
109
Rogue River, Oregon
May 3, 2006
#8
  • May 3, 2006
  • #8
I'm pretty sure he meant toe-in. Toe in helps the car track straight, caster puts "feel" in the steering at speed as well as helps the steering wheel return to zero after a turn and also helps the car go straight at speed. Lighter faster cars can run a bunch of caster, drag cars easily get away with 15+ degrees. Camber helps keep the tires flat, ensuring maximum grip, during hard cornering. Also, all cars come from the factory with what racers refer to as a "tight" condition, which means that during hard cornering, the front will slide first. This is easier for less skilled drivers to correct during panic situations. The setup 2BAV8 has makes the front stick much better, resulting in a much better handling car, but can make the rear want to slide first in extreme situations. But I for one have never, ever had a car swap ends without lots of throttle and really getting after it. For fun in the twisties, the alignment specs he outlined are about a perfect balance.
 

Pbum5

Member
Oct 27, 2004
515
0
17
Minneapolis, MN
May 3, 2006
#9
  • May 3, 2006
  • #9
2bav8 said:
Here is what I use:
Caster 3°
Camber -1°
Toe 1/8"
Click to expand...

Do you have the 1" shelby drop to get he -1* camber?
 
6

68conv4sp

New Member
Oct 24, 2005
270
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0
May 3, 2006
#10
  • May 3, 2006
  • #10
I will be happy to avoid swapping ends like my first autocross outing years ago in the Supra (cones everywhere, friends laughing from the sidelines). The Stang is 300 lbs lighter, but has a less sophisticated suspension and an unsophisticated driver. However, there are few sensations like a controlled 4 wheel drift. Can't wait till Sunday in Marina, Central Calif.
 

2bav8

Founding Member
Nov 30, 1998
2,511
1
47
Mesa, AZ
May 3, 2006
#11
  • May 3, 2006
  • #11
My bad, it is 1/8" toe in, thanks Zoo.
Definitely want to use the Shelby drop if handling is important.
 
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