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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

alignment without caster camber plates?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bundmar
  • Start date Start date Mar 6, 2004
B

Bundmar

Founding Member
Mar 22, 2002
377
0
0
Ontario, Canada
Mar 6, 2004
#1
  • Mar 6, 2004
  • #1
Will I be able to get my car aligned accurately without Caster Camber plates,
its been lowered about 2.5" in the front with H&R SS.
right now it pulls to the right real bad
 

Dr. Wu 2000

New Member
Feb 16, 2004
554
0
0
Eastern, Pa.
Mar 6, 2004
#2
  • Mar 6, 2004
  • #2
You need to take it to get aligned and they will let you know if
cc plates are needed. I have Eibach sportlines and have not had it
aligned and it drives straight as an arrow. If there is enough adjustment
left you won't need cc plates. Won't be able to tell untill they attempt
to do the alignment. I love the look of a lowered stang. Stock there
is way too much fenderwall showing. Just installed new Nitto 255/45's
and the tire fills almost the entire wheelwell. Looks great!!!!!
 
G

GinoGT

Founding Member
Aug 11, 2002
1,862
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36
Mar 6, 2004
#3
  • Mar 6, 2004
  • #3
H&R SS's should lower 2.5", I'd say close to 2" at the most.

But you should get new C/C plates for anything over 1.5".
 
0

03Sleeper

New Member
Apr 29, 2003
464
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0
Fordville,USA
Mar 6, 2004
#4
  • Mar 6, 2004
  • #4
Nope I have H&R super sports and THEY DIDN'T need them at all!
Goodluck
 

Craig Mack

Busted Buffing the Bishop
Founding Member
Mar 9, 2002
801
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0
Lake Mary, FL
Mar 6, 2004
#5
  • Mar 6, 2004
  • #5
What about for the older 4.6's? I have a '97 Cobra, ordered Sportlines and Steeda CC plates. Should I hold off on the CC plates until I go to the alignment place for their technical advice? If my car is fine, I could send the C/C plates back for credit or possibly even a refund.
 
G

GinoGT

Founding Member
Aug 11, 2002
1,862
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36
Mar 6, 2004
#6
  • Mar 6, 2004
  • #6
Craig Mack said:
What about for the older 4.6's? I have a '97 Cobra, ordered Sportlines and Steeda CC plates. Should I hold off on the CC plates until I go to the alignment place for their technical advice? If my car is fine, I could send the C/C plates back for credit or possibly even a refund.
Click to expand...

The chassis is the same thing.
 

Craig Mack

Busted Buffing the Bishop
Founding Member
Mar 9, 2002
801
0
0
Lake Mary, FL
Mar 6, 2004
#7
  • Mar 6, 2004
  • #7
GinoGT said:
The chassis is the same thing.
Click to expand...

I knew they both had a solid rear axle, but I didn't know they were identical, down to the wire. Interesting
 
G

GinoGT

Founding Member
Aug 11, 2002
1,862
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36
Mar 6, 2004
#8
  • Mar 6, 2004
  • #8
Craig Mack said:
I knew they both had a solid rear axle, but I didn't know they were identical, down to the wire. Interesting
Click to expand...

Yup, the main differences of the 96-98's and the 99-04's are the body panels and the PI heads for the 2V engines, then the change to the T-3650 in mid '01. Obviously the 99-04 Cobras have the IRS, and the changes to the 4V engines like the intake, and some stuff with the heads I believe.
 

Craig Mack

Busted Buffing the Bishop
Founding Member
Mar 9, 2002
801
0
0
Lake Mary, FL
Mar 6, 2004
#9
  • Mar 6, 2004
  • #9
GinoGT said:
Yup, the main differences of the 96-98's and the 99-04's are the body panels and the PI heads for the 2V engines, then the change to the T-3650 in mid '01. Obviously the 99-04 Cobras have the IRS, and the changes to the 4V engines like the intake, and some stuff with the heads I believe.
Click to expand...

Ya, I knew all that. I just figured they would use different small parts for the different Mustangs. Your basically saying the entire chassey on my SVT Cobra could be swapped in a GT and no one would know?

BTW, If you were me, would you hold off on the steeda c/c plates when installing the sportlines, to see if they were even needed, or would you go ahead with the install along with the springs anyway?
 
B

Bundmar

Founding Member
Mar 22, 2002
377
0
0
Ontario, Canada
Mar 6, 2004
#10
  • Mar 6, 2004
  • #10
I didnt install the isolators up front so it would drop more

GinoGT said:
H&R SS's should lower 2.5", I'd say close to 2" at the most.

But you should get new C/C plates for anything over 1.5".
Click to expand...
 
G

GinoGT

Founding Member
Aug 11, 2002
1,862
0
36
Mar 6, 2004
#11
  • Mar 6, 2004
  • #11
Craig Mack said:
Ya, I knew all that. I just figured they would use different small parts for the different Mustangs. Your basically saying the entire chassey on my SVT Cobra could be swapped in a GT and no one would know?

BTW, If you were me, would you hold off on the steeda c/c plates when installing the sportlines, to see if they were even needed, or would you go ahead with the install along with the springs anyway?
Click to expand...

Yeah, your engine and tranny would bolt right into my car. Little details, if anything would be needed.

Personally, I'd go with the C/C plates since the sportlines are one of the bigger drops for our cars.
 
W

wickedgt70

New Member
Mar 5, 2003
178
0
0
San Jose, CA
Mar 7, 2004
#12
  • Mar 7, 2004
  • #12
I would put in the CC plates even if you don't require them. Reason 1: They are a lot stiffer than the stock plates with rubber bushings. This will translate into better handling. Reason 2: You may need them in the future. Why go through all the work twice when they don't cost that much more in the first place?
 

nickthegenius

Active Member
Dec 23, 2002
1,631
1
38
Elwood, IN
Mar 7, 2004
#13
  • Mar 7, 2004
  • #13
They couldn't get any less than -1.9* camber in my front end after I installed the H&Rs. Its supposed to be around -.5*.
 

99SilverGT

Founding Member
Apr 11, 2002
1,660
0
0
Jacksonville, FL
Mar 7, 2004
#14
  • Mar 7, 2004
  • #14
I had a ~1.5" drop from Steeda sports and needed CC plates bad for the left side. It was 1" out even with factory adjustments maxed out. Right side was about .4" out so it needed them too.
 
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