Alternator gage connection
- Thread starter 69flastang
- Start date
The gauge doesn't have wires per say- in 69 they started using a flexible printed circuit. If your problem is that it doesn't seem to work, that's normal- most of them don't work. This is because it is a shunt style galvanometer, and just a small percentage of the actual current flows through the meter, so when there is a small amount of resistance it doesn't work.
Below is a schematic of the charging system (not a wire diagram), so it doesn't show the plugs or wire colors normally. The connection of the "ammeter" is to the printed circuit, then to a large plug on the back of the instrument panel. From there wires 654 Yellow and 655 Red go to the main firewall disconnect plug. From there, wire 654 goes into a splice in the harness. Wire 655 goes into a splice and connects with other wires to wire 38B, which is a black wire that goes to the front terminal of the starter solenoid. Your resistance problem will be at the main plug to the instrument panel, and especially in the firewall disconnect plug, You may also have some resistance at the front solenoid connection. I have heard of people using Brasso to clean-up the connections, but a better bet is probably using isopropyl alcohol first, then a product called DeoxIT D100L-2DB.
Below is a schematic of the charging system (not a wire diagram), so it doesn't show the plugs or wire colors normally. The connection of the "ammeter" is to the printed circuit, then to a large plug on the back of the instrument panel. From there wires 654 Yellow and 655 Red go to the main firewall disconnect plug. From there, wire 654 goes into a splice in the harness. Wire 655 goes into a splice and connects with other wires to wire 38B, which is a black wire that goes to the front terminal of the starter solenoid. Your resistance problem will be at the main plug to the instrument panel, and especially in the firewall disconnect plug, You may also have some resistance at the front solenoid connection. I have heard of people using Brasso to clean-up the connections, but a better bet is probably using isopropyl alcohol first, then a product called DeoxIT D100L-2DB.
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