Aluminum Driveshaft, worth it?

helty · Jan 14, 2006

if you're loaded get a carbon fiber driveshaft. look at that power it reclaimed on this bullitt. like i said, if you're loaded. i think they're like $1100.

http://www.stangpro.com/html/articles/driveshaft.htm

xseler8 · Jan 14, 2006

ponysarepretty said:
How is that any different from a steel driveshaft car with a lot of power?

Any drive shaft can break - or the "U" joint can fail. A DS loop prevents pole vaulting.

02GTdroptop · Jan 14, 2006

Exactly. Aluminum is just automatically more predisposed to breakage under torque than steel, that's all.

imblown-ru · Jan 15, 2006

i thought carbon fiber shafts were more around 600...oh well im getting one, and am finally gonna post hp increases, and exact 1/4 mile increases

helty · Jan 15, 2006

imblown-ru said:
i thought carbon fiber shafts were more around 600...oh well im getting one, and am finally gonna post hp increases, and exact 1/4 mile increases

well, I just posted what the one in that link cost. they probably can be had for less. StangPro reclaimed 5.7hp and 8.1 ft/lbs on the dyno, but his 1/8th miles times had mixed results. He did however cut 0.2 off his R/T and a slight increase in MPH due to the reclaimed hp. If you're serious about racing, or just performance in general, I'd say they're worth it.

Justin03GT · Jan 15, 2006

helty said:
He did however cut 0.2 off his R/T .....

how did the DS and proclaimed power cut time off the R/T? is it something magical that makes you react faster cause the aluminum is sending signals to your brain?

helty · Jan 15, 2006

Justin03GT said:
how did the DS and proclaimed power cut time off the R/T? is it something magical that makes you react faster cause the aluminum is sending signals to your brain?

we're not talking about aluminum smartass. perhaps the lighter weight of the carbon fiber compared to the steel allowed the driveshaft to spin just that much quicker? hell i dont know im just telling him what StangPro reported from his dyno pulls and track times. he's on here, ask him.

think about it. you use the same force to rotate a 20lb steel shaft as you do an 11lb CF shaft, which one rotates quicker?

The throttle response probably had quite a bit to do with the reaction time while the added HP aided the ending MPH.

hotmustang331 · Jan 15, 2006

the aluminum only weighs 3 #s more...I mean what a 1/2 HP difference? LOL. Ill just get aluminum when the time cames...im sure ill get a good 4hp then. Every little bit helps . If it made 295 with it I would be happy lol. "people with aluminum DSs will be ****ching to CF ones evenetually, and it will become the standard" HAHA, not unless they come off of that price! Screw that, im not stupid....1000bucks for 5HP and smoother driving? No thanks.

BTW someone mentioned the dog bone thing...i took mine OFF and noticed absolutly ZERO difference in vibration, but it did weigh 9#s. 3.73s with stock DS. You know I take that back...it got better! I used to get this WHOOM WHOOM WHOOM thing going on after a high speed run...kinda like my DS was out of ballance. Would last for about a day then go away. Havnt had that problem since I removed that thing.

helty · Jan 15, 2006

hey, i just threw it out there. never did i claim CF driveshafts are the end all solution to performance. bishes.

StangPro lurks around here, ask him for the dyno sheet and an explanation. all i did was find the article and post it. quit busting my balls

Gearbanger 101 · Jan 15, 2006

Gearbanger 101 · Jan 15, 2006

Keep in mind, that even if the slightly lighter rotational mass, equals a big difference when you really get these suckers spinning at top end.

Justin03GT · Jan 15, 2006

i was just busting balls...no amount of power can make your R/T time go down, R/T is ALL driver

helty · Jan 15, 2006

Justin03GT said:
i was just busting balls...no amount of power can make your R/T time go down, R/T is ALL driver

I know you're just ball busting, I'm used to it around these parts. and I know R/T is all driver, hence the reason my best to date is a 0.9

i sat around thinking about it last night anyway. what if the same driver makes 2 runs down the track: 1 with a 20lb DS and 1 with a 10lb DS. Both times his reaction to the light is identical. Because the engine has less rotational mass to spin with the 10lb DS, isnt it fathomable that the engine torque will transfer to the rear wheels just a hair quicker than the 20lb DS, allowing the car to hook and break the plane even the slightest bit before the 20lb DS would allow?

just a guess.

joshheat25 · Jan 15, 2006

just get the aluminum! I plan on eventually getting one! after a blower!

hotmustang331 · Jan 15, 2006

^Yes it will to an extent. Reaction time has MAINLY to do with driver though. Just like adding power, or slicks, it WILL break the beam faster providing the traction is there. But my point is the SLIGHT weight difference of CF vs aluminum...its not worth it to me . I can put that towards some heads or that aluminum intake ill be buying .

helty · Jan 15, 2006

hotmustang331 said:
I can put that towards some heads and heads only. Nothing else besides heads .

fixt.

on the CF vs. Aluminum issue, I wasnt trying to convince anyone that CF is better (although it is lighter and torsionally stronger, not as dangerous if the U-joint fails. It is however, quite a bit more expensive.). I just threw it out there. I'll be damned if I spend that much on a driveshaft, at least until I get very serious about racing, which due to finds wont be for a few years.

javsvt · Jan 15, 2006

Good debate. Dont know waht to do. Maybe ill spend it somewhere else. I get know vibrations now with my 4.10s. Ill just wait till i do get vibrations. Ill sleep on it. Thanx for the info.

menasci · Jan 15, 2006

I have one.
Not sure if it made a difference.
But, it is lighter and more balanced, so that's got to be good.
Also, MOST high performance and luxury cars have aluminum driveshafts, must be a reason.

Chris00GT · Jan 15, 2006

I've dyno'ed my car to see how much gain for an aluminum drive shaft. The results were 0rwhp gain and a gain of 7rwtq.

hotmustang331 · Jan 15, 2006

helty said:
fixt.

on the CF vs. Aluminum issue, I wasnt trying to convince anyone that CF is better (although it is lighter and torsionally stronger, not as dangerous if the U-joint fails. It is however, quite a bit more expensive.). I just threw it out there. I'll be damned if I spend that much on a driveshaft, at least until I get very serious about racing, which due to finds wont be for a few years.

I know lol, i even forgot you were the thread starter for most of this thread....but its a very informative thread. VERY good idea for someone with a high HP car (500+).

Aluminum Driveshaft, worth it?

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