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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

aluminum flywheel for a daily driver???

  • Thread starter Thread starter shadow9055
  • Start date Start date Mar 20, 2011
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shadow9055

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#1
  • Mar 20, 2011
  • #1
im getting some different opinions on which type of flywheel to go with. i want to do the clutch and flywheel and rear main seal this summer and im doing a HCI install hopefully next summer and im planning on it being a little over 300hp once im done with the engine... its a weekend and week night daily driver that i don't plan on racing. i just want it too fast and fun to drive. i have 3.55s and all new suspension and tubular control arms in the rear also. some guys are saying the fast spin will make it a pain to drive around town. others say its great. . thanks for reading this.
 

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.
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#2
  • Mar 20, 2011
  • #2
If you're not racing get your stock on resurfaced. I have an aluminum wheel on my car and its ok. I got it for practically nothing, but its not something I would run out and buy for a cruiser.
 

281pony

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Aug 31, 2003
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#3
  • Mar 20, 2011
  • #3
takes some good clutch control to drive it around stop and go. it is definately driveable though without too much issue.

dont go out of your way to get one imo. i got mine for free essentially.
 
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shadow9055

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#4
  • Mar 20, 2011
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ok, thats what i have been leaning towards. what about a billet steel then. im guessing thats next best... or will it really not help and i should just get the old one resurfaced. one nice thing about my car is it only has 100,000 miles on it. plus, all those miles were on it when everything was stock.. u know before i got my stupid hands on it.
 

281pony

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#5
  • Mar 20, 2011
  • #5
just resurface what you have.
 

Cobra912

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#6
  • Mar 20, 2011
  • #6
^^^ save your cash
 

wythors

Get off my lawn!!!
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#7
  • Mar 21, 2011
  • #7
I put one in when I did my T5 swap and HATED it. I left it in there for about two weeks before yanking the tranny back out and putting in a stock one.
 
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shadow9055

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#8
  • Mar 21, 2011
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thanks guys, thats kinda what i wanted to hear... less money. However, i was excited at thought of it pulling out faster with the lighter flywheel.
 
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shadow9055

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#9
  • Mar 21, 2011
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can anybody try and explain why it sucks? some guys r saying u just need to know how to drive properly with it. i guess what im saying is does it grab at a more percise spot and it stalls easy or what.. im not exactly sure how to even ask what im asking. i mean if its gonna throw me back in the seat everytime i pull out no matter what.. i guess when not joy riding that would suck. but if u can control it. i think it would rock.... any opinions ?
 

281pony

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#10
  • Mar 21, 2011
  • #10
There is less rotational weight there. It revs faster, but clutching is more difficult. It has less mass behind it to absorb anything.
 

wythors

Get off my lawn!!!
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#11
  • Mar 21, 2011
  • #11
shadow9055 said:
can anybody try and explain why it sucks? some guys r saying u just need to know how to drive properly with it. i guess what im saying is does it grab at a more percise spot and it stalls easy or what.. im not exactly sure how to even ask what im asking. i mean if its gonna throw me back in the seat everytime i pull out no matter what.. i guess when not joy riding that would suck. but if u can control it. i think it would rock.... any opinions ?
Click to expand...

The way it felt to me was like the clutch was almost like an on/off switch. There was very little slip to cushion the clutch engagment. I've driven manual transmissions for over 30 years and have never had a problem getting a smooth engagment. With this thing, I just couldn't make it work on a consistent basis. If I didn't kill it, half the time I chirped the tires and half the rest of the time it started off jerkily. In the rain, forget it. I switched over to a stock flywheel and everything was fine. Yeah, I know people are going to say "I've never had a problem like that", but this is my experience with a H/C/I car and a Fidanza aluminum flywheel.
 
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jbond007

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#12
  • Mar 21, 2011
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I have a Fidanza Aluminum flywheel, SPEC stage 3 clutch, tripple hook quadrant, firewall adjuster, and adjustable cable, and the new RAM Kevlar pilot bushing...around $50...just out but supposedly never wears out or needs lubricant, and is smoother and easier on the input shaft with less chatter. I have not fully broken the clutch in yet. I have around 250 miles on it and it needs a 500 mile break-in before I can get nasty with it. The thing I would say is that my car revs very fast. At first the car is really jerky when engaging the clutch and feels like it is grabbing in a jerky manner if you don't slip the clutch well. As I put more miles on the clutch it is becoming smoother although it still exist, but not as often...or maybe I am getting more used to how to feather the clutch for street driving. I was going for the lighter rotational weight in any manner possible, but I am not sure if I wouldn't go with a billet steel the next time or stock. I am sure that I will have more of any opinion as I drive it more, but I wanted to provide a little feedback to you. BTW I got the flywheel brand new on ebay...can't remember the supplier...for around 270 and the clutch for about the same. Hope that the input helps with any decisions that you will make.
 

RacEoHolic330

I like to dress like a pretty girl
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#13
  • Mar 21, 2011
  • #13
As already mentioned, the extra rotational mass of the steel flywheel is your friend on the street.
 

281pony

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#14
  • Mar 21, 2011
  • #14
im not on my phone now so i can type a bit easier.

my experience (good so far) might differ from yours. i have a spec flywheel/twin disc clutch combo. i can engage mine smoothly with no hiccups 99% of the time. like any foxbody though, sometimes i get that imperfect feed and the car bucks taking off. it is most definately a noticeable difference in driving touchyness though.

as i mentioned and you have read.. don't go out of your way to get one. i wouldn't have paid anything extra for mine.
 

patboy

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Oct 22, 2006
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Mar 22, 2011
#15
  • Mar 22, 2011
  • #15
i agree with the above statments, but I would like to add that a steel flywheel can probably take a little more beating than an aluminum one

..... I think
 

rbonella

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Mar 23, 2011
#16
  • Mar 23, 2011
  • #16
I have an aluminum flywheel on at the moment and I HATE IT! I don't dd the car and it will be coming off this spring. I agree with the on/off clutch feel. I got caught in stop/go traffic recently and I almost wanted to kill my passenger just because I was that irritated. Boy does it rev up fast though
 
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shadow9055

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Mar 20, 2011
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Mar 23, 2011
#17
  • Mar 23, 2011
  • #17
thanks a lot guys. that really helped. i love this site. i plan on doing in the next month. so if i decide to try the aluminum one i will definitely let u guys know what i think. i want to do it, but honestly im nervous about it now..... ha ha. thanks again guys.
 
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shadow9055

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Mar 20, 2011
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#18
  • Mar 23, 2011
  • #18
what do u guys think of this deal... any exp with xtr parts? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STAG...d|Model:Mustang|Year:1987&hash=item588c8db24f
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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Mar 24, 2011
#19
  • Mar 24, 2011
  • #19
I wouldn't...but that's just me.
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
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#20
  • Mar 24, 2011
  • #20
The only thing i like about them is how fast your engine will rev with it. I went with billet steel for my 347.
 
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