Aluminum flywheel, who's and how light?

Gravel

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Mar 17, 2004

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Bellingham WA

Mar 26, 2004

#1

• Mar 26, 2004

• #1

I am going to do a clutch and flywheel upgrade on my 87..

I will be using a Stage 2 Centerforce, always had real good luck with them..

I am not worried about saving money and do not want to buy crap..

This is not a drag car but a road racer and sunshine driver..

Thanks!!

 

A

autoXr1

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May 3, 2001

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Michigan

Mar 26, 2004

#2

• Mar 26, 2004

• #2

Aluminum flywheels, in general, are considered "high end" pieces. For that reason, I believe, that if you stick with a "name brand", you'll be happy. Most will knock 15-18lbs off a similar steel flywheel and are really nice for road racing, where the engine has to change RPM abruptly with downshifting.

I am happy with my RAM aluminum. McLeod makes a nice piece. Check with SPEC, as they have really picked up on the small block Ford market these past few years.

 

Stang951

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Jun 12, 2000

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New Orleans

Mar 26, 2004

#3

• Mar 26, 2004

• #3

I'm happy with my Spec. Havent tried any other brands though.

 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end

15 Year Member

Nov 11, 2003

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Northern KY

Mar 27, 2004

#4

• Mar 27, 2004

• #4

Do you guys drag with your aluminum units? I was so tempted to get an aluminum when i put mine together but wasnt sure so i got the steel.

 

Stang951

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Jun 12, 2000

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New Orleans

Mar 27, 2004

#5

• Mar 27, 2004

• #5

I have raced...once, but the car was not tuned at all. Felt pretty good, but with nothgin tuned right, I could only accomplish a best of 36mph at 14.77

 

NoSloCoupes

"I would do anything for a FREE muffler"

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Mar 4, 2000

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Clinton,IL

Mar 27, 2004

#6

• Mar 27, 2004

• #6

I run the AFM piece(made by Fidanza). I'd say the aluminum is probably 10-15lbs....i've also got a Ram billet steel that came UPS that said it weighed 24lbs.

 

R

rdksek844

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Port St. Lucie, FL

Mar 27, 2004

#7

• Mar 27, 2004

• #7

Just buy the 150.00 one from summit. It's a ford racing alum shaft and I've had great luck on multiple stangs with them. I will never own another stang without one. Just my .02.

 

NoSloCoupes

"I would do anything for a FREE muffler"

Founding Member

Mar 4, 2000

2,705

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58

Clinton,IL

Mar 27, 2004

#8

• Mar 27, 2004

• #8

rdksek844 said:

Just buy the 150.00 one from summit. It's a ford racing alum shaft and I've had great luck on multiple stangs with them. I will never own another stang without one. Just my .02.

Click to expand...

He's talking flywheels man.

 

PURESTREET5006

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Apr 1, 2003

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In the tech line for tear down"AGAIN"

Mar 27, 2004

#9

• Mar 27, 2004

• #9

I just got a flywheel from spec..11lbs with the 50oz balance.

 

Gravel

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Mar 17, 2004

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Bellingham WA

Mar 28, 2004

#10

• Mar 28, 2004

• #10

You guys ROCK!

Thanks for the info!!!

I'll let you all know where I end up..

 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because

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Jan 15, 2002

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Dallas, GA

Mar 28, 2004

#11

• Mar 28, 2004

• #11

Aluminum flyweels I have heard are bad for launch but better after that. Removing alot of rotation weight has to help get the weight to the rear wheels. I am planning on an aluminun flyweel with a new clutch, maby a tremec too (I hope).

I did a little research on alum flywheels and I know the AFM peice has a replacable surface so it won't be a one time use thing.

 

A

autoXr1

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Mar 28, 2004

#12

• Mar 28, 2004

• #12

"Aluminum flyweels I have heard are bad for launch but better after that."....

They are not "bad" for launch. The driver just has to launch differently than when using a heavier steel unit. I believe this is a particular issue with "underpowered" stock or mild engine combos, where the loss of rotational inertia is going to be a significant factor. Often times, simply being a little quicker on the stick, launching at a higher RPM, and/or using that next higher gear ratio reduces these effects.

Anytime you can put more of your engine's power to the wheels, and not have it parasitically consumed by the driveline, it is advantageous. Lightweight driveshafts, lightweight flywheels, gundrilled and scalloped axles, lightweight gearsets and differentials, lightweight brakes, lightweight wheels, and so on, are designed to reduce parasitic losses and are highly desired in nearly all forms of racing.

 

blown93feature

New Member

Dec 9, 2003

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living on edge like the motor

Mar 28, 2004

#13

• Mar 28, 2004

• #13

autoXr1 said:

"Aluminum flyweels I have heard are bad for launch but better after that."....

They are not "bad" for launch. The driver just has to launch differently than when using a heavier steel unit. I believe this is a particular issue with "underpowered" stock or mild engine combos, where the loss of rotational inertia is going to be a significant factor. Often times, simply being a little quicker on the stick, launching at a higher RPM, and/or using that next higher gear ratio reduces these effects.

Anytime you can put more of your engine's power to the wheels, and not have it parasitically consumed by the driveline, it is advantageous. Lightweight driveshafts, lightweight flywheels, gundrilled and scalloped axles, lightweight gearsets and differentials, lightweight brakes, lightweight wheels, and so on, are designed to reduce parasitic losses and are highly desired in nearly all forms of racing.

Click to expand...

this may be true with stick cars,I don't have alot of expierience with modding them,but for auto I would go with an sfi approved steel there is no better way with inertia than steel.True about weight factor theory but I found better results this way.J.W performance has there sh** together when it comes to this stuff.

Just my .02 peace..

 

Gravel

Member

Mar 17, 2004

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Bellingham WA

Mar 28, 2004

#14

• Mar 28, 2004

• #14

Do they even make an aluminum flex-plate?