Another Junkyard Score!

how much did u snag it for??

Where did you find the TC?

Was the car pretty stripped?

Everything I find around here has already been stripped of anything I could use.

jason

Just in case you didn't already have a copy of this...

Been there and done that! With success!

Do the 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear end swap!

Auto trans 87-88 Tbird Turbo Coupes come with 3.73 gears and manual Turbo Coupes come with 3.55 gears. Cost is $125-$300 for the rear axle. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.
I choose 3.55 since I do more highway driving. Both ratios have 10” disk brakes with vented rotors as standard equipment.
It takes 2 guys the first day to get the old rear end out and the new one bolted in place. It takes 1 guy another whole day to do the brakes.
You will need a several sets of fittings, I recommend that you get them from Matt90GT's website, http://www.svo73mm.cjb.net/. Read Matt's instructions thoroughly, everything you need to know about the brakes is all there. You need to be patient and follow all the internal links, and there are many of them. You will need 2 fittings in the rear to adapt your old brake tubing to the TC disk brakes. The fittings go between the steel tube and the caliper brake hose. You will need another set of fittings to make a 2 port to 3 port adapter. To make life simpler, just buy the kits from Matt. You could piece them together, but it's not worth the time unless you work at an auto parts store with all the fittings ever made.

You will need to drill the quad shock mounting holes 2” below the holes drilled for the Turbo Coupe mounting points. The bolts are metric, so don’t loose them or the nuts. A 15/32” drill should be about the right size unless you have access to metric sized drill bits. Going without quad shocks is not an option unless you have aftermarket parts to soak up the wheel hop.

You will need a proportioning valve, Summit has one for $40 + shipping.
You will need a kit (FMS makes the part) to gut the stock proportioning valve, Summit also has that, about $10.


You will need a new master cylinder, see Matt's site and make you choice. I used a 94-95 Mustang master cylinder. Note that rebuilt 94-95 Mustang master cylinders do not come with a reservoir. That means a trip to the junkyard and some more money spent.

Your brake pedal may be very hard and almost impossible to lock up the brakes. I had to replace the front calipers with 73 mm calipers from a 91 Lincoln Mark 7 to get the braking performance up to par.

Bleeding the brakes will require 2 people and some coordinated effort. I don’t recommend using you wife or girlfriend to pump the pedal – they get offended when you yell at them. I used a homemade power brake bleeder constructed from a garden sprayer and some fittings from Home Depot. It cost about $25 and was worth every penny. Do a search on garden and you'll find it complete with pictures.

See http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/brake.html for help with the emergency brake - the stock setup tends to lock up and not release properly.

All in all I have been very pleased with the results.

Nice find, youll like them when you get it installed and working! And if you want to convert to 5 lug, discbrakesRus has the dual drilled rear rotors.

Tonys89GT said:

Nice find, youll like them when you get it installed and working! And if you want to convert to 5 lug, discbrakesRus has the dual drilled rear rotors.

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How about a real working link. I looked but didn't find any dual drilled 10" T-Coupe rear rotors.

i found 2 in a yard near me both have engines i would like to have one to hop up since i sold my svo he said he would take 150 for either axel one was auto car 373 and one was a t5 car 355s i want them so bad since i just bought a set of pony rims to replace my current ones im gonna stick with 4 lug if i can get one of them

realmongo pick up some upper and lower control arms, and dithc those quads pronto

Don't be afraid of re-drilling the holes for the quad shocks. It takes a little care to measure & lay out the bolt pattern, but it isn't hard to do with a good drill & good quality drill bits. Drill a 1/8" hole to start and go up to 1/4" and then to the 12 MM or 15/32" size That way you can save some $$$ for the rest of the brake parts.

I promise you that you won't be happy with the stock front calipers and the brake feel/pedal effort required. The stock front brakes were so bad when combined with the new M/C & rear disks that it was almost impossible to lock the wheels. The pedal effort was way past the comfort zone. I used the 73 MM front calipers and that fixed it all. I now have excellent brake pedal feel and stopping distance.

RModel65, how much are the TC motors and the electrical stuff? If you don't mind, where in Brunswick?

Thats close enough if the price is right.

jrichker said:

How about a real working link. I looked but didn't find any dual drilled 10" T-Coupe rear rotors.

Click to expand...

http://discbrakesrus.com/make/ford/brakerotorsrear.htm

the 5th, 6th, and 7th ones down. 10.25" by aimco.

steeda, maximum motorsports are good ones for a mild street car. for a drag strip only setup, megabyte jr's and i've heard of UMI's being pretty good

rd said:

RModel65, how much are the TC motors and the electrical stuff? If you don't mind, where in Brunswick?

Thats close enough if the price is right.

Click to expand...

i dont know i can ask i have to go down to the city the cars r in not in brunswick give me a call around lunch time on the 16th ill go by and check probably could get whole car for around 500 i would think my # is 9122231798

What is the deal with the Turbo Coupe rearends? What makes them better? I am about to upgrade a rearend and looking to make it bomb proof with occassional strip runs. And what about the brakes?