final5-0 said:A couple of things I see in this thread are:
1) If you are too rich, the extra fuel should only help the ping thing.
2) Is it possible that your hb has spun (is that a word? ... lol) and your spark is too far advanced?
Later
Grady
Thanks for the info. You are preaching to the choir with the chamber cleaning. In the old days (I am not real old, but am old school), before plug changes (carbed stuff, no cats), I would allow the carb to ingest some water. It seemed to help break up some carbon (remember carbs did not keep chambers relatively clean like EFI generally does). I am a little leary of some of the solvents used, which was why I asked. Sounds like good stuff.bimmertech said:when i worked at a chevy dealer a while back it was a tech serv bulletin. ford has the same bulletin and procedure for 4.0 sohc and prolly some others as well. i have done it to a ton of vehicles at work and all of my own and with no adverse affects. the problem is people would put the plugs back in and hdro lock the damn motor giving the procedure a bad rap. there is a couple other procedures, but require expensive tools that can not be aquired easily. for example there is the sprayer that shoots walnut shells into the engine, it's what bmw and mercedes use and really works as it cleans the valves too. you would be amazed at what a real carbon cleaning does for your engine.
mo_dingo said:After that, yank your heads, and scrape all of the carbon off of your pistons, and you should be set!
Scott
How would I check if the HB is spun. I heard you try and jigle it, but I don't know for sure.final5-0 said:A couple of things I see in this thread are:
1) If you are too rich, the extra fuel should only help the ping thing.
2) Is it possible that your hb has spun (is that a word? ... lol) and your spark is too far advanced?
Later
Grady
Look for the elastomer coming out of the middle of the balancer. Or excessive run out, which indicates the outer ring has slipped (this is a common way for them to slip). Or if you notice that each time you 'time' (set ignition timing) the car, it is not where you left it the last time or it is reading crazy (since the outer ring is slipping). Or you thought you had a UFO under the hood because you saw a saucer-lookingthing shoot out of the car and now the car runs rough.mustangman94 said:How would I check if the HB is spun. I heard you try and jigle it, but I don't know for sure.
mustangman94 said:How would I check if the HB is spun. I heard you try and jigle it, but I don't know for sure.
CManT1914 said:I should have done that when I had the heads off. Oh well, I don't have a problem with pinging.
MLC Stang said:mustangman94,
Here my UNDER A BUCK pinging fix!
After replacing nearly every sensor in my car in an attempt to cure pinging, I finally cured the last remaining bit of it by finding and fixing two small vacuum leaks.
After doing everything else that everyone else tells you, look for vacuum leaks everywhere! Even a small one will result in lean A/F ratios and cause pinging.
The most important vacuum leak I found, and the biggest cause of the pinging problem, was an old, brittle, leaking Fuel Pressure Regulator vacuum hose. This is the small hose that connects the FPR to the intake manifold. Mine was the original piece and it was hard as a carp! It was so brittle that I had to cut it off. I had no flex left in it at all and was definitely leaking at the intake manifold nipple.
A vacuum leak in the FPR hose actually causes two problems. First, the fuel pressure doesn’t change correctly in proportion to engine load anymore since the FPR vacuum diaphragm isn’t getting the full manifold vacuum signal. Second, an air leak there allows un-metered air into the intake which the MAF never sees and thus incorrectly calculates load as a result. And our fuel/spark tables are what? Load based!
The hose is only about a 5 or 6 inch piece of 5/32 inch ID fuel hose. The hardest part was actually finding a 5/32 inch ID fuel line. It seems not to be a common size. I could find 3/16 inch ID fuel line at most car parts places. Though it’s not the best fit, it will work until you can find some 5/32 inch, which is a good tight fit. (Don’t try to use any thin-walled tubing for this, the vacuum will flatten it out and close off the hose. It’s got to be thick-walled fuel line or thick-walled emission control line.) The Ford dealer doesn’t stock a special formed hose for this part. They will just sell you a chunk of hose off a reel, but for three times what it will cost at an auto parts store.
The second one I found was a very small leak caused by an old, brittle, PCV valve grommet. This is the large diameter rubber grommet at the back of the intake manifold into which your PCV valve plugs. When that leaks, you are sucking outside air into the intake, instead of oil fume laden air from inside the sealed Positive Crankcase Ventillation system. Again, the MAF never gets to see this air and the engine runs lean, causing pinging.
Our cars are over 10 years old. Most of the rubber and plastic stuff in the engine compartment is toasty and brittle after years of enduring the under hood heat. Anything carrying an intake vacuum signal is suspect. (Don’t forget that there’s one that runs into the driver’s side fender well where the cruise control vacuum diaphragm is located!)
I would replace your FPR vacuum hose first and see if that does it. It will only cost you a buck to find out.
Good luck.
I think Grady is on to something here.. I would find TDC on #1 cyl and check the timing marks, they should be very close to 0* to see if the HB has slipped. And the vacuum demon is a nasty one to deal with. Does the car idle at the proper rpm and idle smoothly (I didn't notice if you have a bigger cam). These are other symptoms of a vacuum leak. ANY of those little hard plastic vacuum lines can be the culprit (I HATE those with a passion). There are some in the right wheelwell (TAB, TAD, and EGR modules there) as well as on the top side of the engine at the intake (upper and lower) They get brittle and break, because they sure won't flex at all. Just my .02. Good Luck!!final5-0 said:Don't know how accurate this idea would be but ...........................
I guess you could use a small dowel or maybe a pencil and use it to find tdc on the #1 hole and the zero mark on the hb should be at the pointer doo dad.
Later
Grady
Final5-0,final5-0 said:I'm glad your ping fix was a minor thing.
I still say the major reason so many GT's suffer from the ping thing is Ford has the spark too high and the fuel too lean to the point of....................
if any minor prob occurs, such as in your case, the ping demon rears its ugly head.
That is the reason some have always had issues with ping.
Later
Grady
MLC Stang said:Final5-0,
I agree with you completely. Here's the "rant" part that I left off of my original reply:
After working on this car for a number of years and reading many posts in this and other forums about how common this pinging issue is with our cars, I have come to believe that the cause is the combination of the “on-the-edge-of-drivability” load-based fuel/spark tables in the stock 94/95 PCM and the poor burn properties of the stock cylinder heads. If any single system or item under the PCM’s purview is just a little bit off, pinging will result. Because that combination puts us on the ragged edge from the get-go, nothing in the system can be allowed to age or deteriorate without causing pinging. Not sensors, not hoses, not EGR, not MAF, not ignition, not squat!
Now that I think of it my car has been idling kinda bad. I thought it was from the very low timing, bu it could come from a leak. When I turn the stering wheel when I am just sitting still my RPM's drop and I have had the car stall about 7-10 times with just turning the steering wheel. Could that have anything to do with my pinging?v6v8swap said:I think Grady is on to something here.. I would find TDC on #1 cyl and check the timing marks, they should be very close to 0* to see if the HB has slipped. And the vacuum demon is a nasty one to deal with. Does the car idle at the proper rpm and idle smoothly (I didn't notice if you have a bigger cam). These are other symptoms of a vacuum leak. ANY of those little hard plastic vacuum lines can be the culprit (I HATE those with a passion). There are some in the right wheelwell (TAB, TAD, and EGR modules there) as well as on the top side of the engine at the intake (upper and lower) They get brittle and break, because they sure won't flex at all. Just my .02. Good Luck!!
mustangman94 said:Now that I think of it my car has been idling kinda bad. I thought it was from the very low timing, bu it could come from a leak. When I turn the stering wheel when I am just sitting still my RPM's drop and I have had the car stall about 7-10 times with just turning the steering wheel. Could that have anything to do with my pinging?
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