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another "what mods next" thread...

  • Thread starter Thread starter mhorn0817
  • Start date Start date May 9, 2006
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mhorn0817

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Apr 27, 2006
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#1
  • May 9, 2006
  • #1
im sure it gets posted up alot but figured it couldnt hurt to ask...i know the basic concept is to get as much air in and out of the motor as ya can, so ive already done slp LT headers,x-pipe and cat back,get a kn air filter,160 thermostat and slp underdrive pullies...so next i was thinking cold air intake, TB and upper plenum....to get some more air in....what size tb should i go with? also whats your opinions on gears? 373 or 410s for my 02 stang gt? thanks alot in advance!!
 

gtstangau

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#2
  • May 9, 2006
  • #2
Im sure everyone will say go with the 4:10's. The plenum t/b combo, I would go with a 75mm throttle body. It really all depends what your goals for the car are!
 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
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#3
  • May 9, 2006
  • #3
70mm TB if your staying N/A. Go Accufab, and go 75mm TB if you are planning on getting blown in the future.

If you aren't on the highway (interstate) a lot, go with the 4:10's...if you are or you want to be blown later, stick with 3:73's...

Edit: Change out that 160* t-stat for a 180* or better yet, a stock one.
 
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mhorn0817

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#4
  • May 9, 2006
  • #4
thanks for the tips, what wrong with the 160 stat?
 

5spd GT

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#5
  • May 9, 2006
  • #5
mustang02gt said:
thanks for the tips, what wrong with the 160 stat?
Click to expand...

It is probably hurting you more than helping. Probably keeping your car in open loop, which gives different parameters to the computer, running a bit richer, less gas mileage.

The main reason for not keeping the 160* t-stat is because it isn't allowing the water/coolant mixture to stay in the radiator and let the radiator do it's job. It needs to cool it down, you are close to making the coolant/water mixture to continiously cycle...just my opinion on things.
 

jstreet0204

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May 9, 2006
#6
  • May 9, 2006
  • #6
5spd GT said:
It is probably hurting you more than helping. Probably keeping your car in open loop, which gives different parameters to the computer, running a bit richer, less gas mileage.

The main reason for not keeping the 160* t-stat is because it isn't allowing the water/coolant mixture to stay in the radiator and let the radiator do it's job. It needs to cool it down, you are close to making the coolant/water mixture to continiously cycle...just my opinion on things.
Click to expand...

It won't keep the car from going into closed loop, the eec will go into closed loop long before it reaches operating temp. But, what it will do is keep the eec from switching over to the base fuel table. The switch over temp for going from the "startup fuel table" to the "base fuel table" is 180. The startup fuel table is richer, so unless specific parameters in the EEC have changed, it is better to stick with the stock t-stat.
 

5spd GT

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#7
  • May 9, 2006
  • #7
jstreet0204 said:
It won't keep the car from going into closed loop, the eec will go into closed loop long before it reaches operating temp. But, what it will do is keep the eec from switching over to the base fuel table. The switch over temp for going from the "startup fuel table" to the "base fuel table" is 180. The startup fuel table is richer, so unless specific parameters in the EEC have changed, it is better to stick with the stock t-stat.
Click to expand...

Looks like what I typed, except for the exact temp when the fuel table changes...I think in 5.0L terms sometimes
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,160
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May 9, 2006
#8
  • May 9, 2006
  • #8
5spd GT said:
I think in 5.0L terms sometimes
Click to expand...

Sometimes i forget what forum i'm posting in and then gotta go back and edit
 

the98stang

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May 9, 2006
#9
  • May 9, 2006
  • #9
get 3.73's if you plan on supercharging/spraying in the future
 

04gtdrop

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#10
  • May 9, 2006
  • #10
i would go with the 70mm t/b unless your going to get nos or a s/c later on.

3.73 vs 4.10...I got 3.73s and i like them. I am going to but a s/c on her as soon as I am done with school. so 3.73 is perfect for me. and i do alot of commute driving to get to school.

if oyu cant decide then go with the 3.90's...also gears will prob be what you feel the most when it comes to a single mod.

have you thought about getting a chip or handheld programer?
 
R

RoadconeTuning

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May 9, 2006
#11
  • May 9, 2006
  • #11
get the 75mm, no reason to not get it... you wont loose any tq from it youll actually gain... but do get the Accufab TB/plenum combo as they are the best and im gonna go w/ 3.73's or MAYBE 4.10's if i keep just puttin' around town.
 

HoustonGT

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Apr 6, 2003
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May 9, 2006
#12
  • May 9, 2006
  • #12
How bout a shifter, some Subframe Connectors, or maybe some LCA's . Those will help you get your power down and fully utilize it. Do you plan on doing any suspension work?
 
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JOHNS01GT

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#13
  • May 9, 2006
  • #13
Go with 75mm, Accufab is an excellent choice. I wouldn't go 70mm if staying N/A, because you never know, you might change your mind in the future. I originally was staying N/A but now I want a power adder. And if it doesn't hurt, then why not?
 

jstreet0204

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#14
  • May 9, 2006
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5spd GT said:
Looks like what I typed, except for the exact temp when the fuel table changes...I think in 5.0L terms sometimes
Click to expand...

No, you said it will keep the car in open loop. I was just trying to make it clear that it wouldn't. loop state and the fuel tables are not related in that sense. Your car will go into closed loop at temps under 160 it will just use a different fuel table.
 

hognutz

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May 9, 2006
#15
  • May 9, 2006
  • #15
I would do gears or cams. plenum tb is the easiest though. just does not do as much.

some 4.10's and some cams will have your car running hard.
 

5spd GT

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#16
  • May 9, 2006
  • #16
jstreet0204 said:
No, you said it will keep the car in open loop. I was just trying to make it clear that it wouldn't. loop state and the fuel tables are not related in that sense. Your car will go into closed loop at temps under 160 it will just use a different fuel table.
Click to expand...

No, I said "probably"...re-read please.
 
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mhorn0817

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#17
  • May 10, 2006
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well i got the slp performance pac 330....you can see it on their site. came with headers ,x pipe,catback,air filter,under drive pullies,160 theromstat and a daiblo predator tune with a pre tune with the parts just installed, so im assuming the stat should be ok since it was diablo tuned that way....next will probably be the intake,tb/plenum combo, then gears, then adjsutable struts thanks for the advice
 
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JOHNS01GT

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#18
  • May 10, 2006
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mustang02gt said:
well i got the slp performance pac 330....you can see it on their site. came with headers ,x pipe,catback,air filter,under drive pullies,160 theromstat and a daiblo predator tune with a pre tune with the parts just installed, so im assuming the stat should be ok since it was diablo tuned that way....next will probably be the intake,tb/plenum combo, then gears, then adjsutable struts thanks for the advice
Click to expand...

Are you going to eventually do cams?
 

jstreet0204

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May 10, 2006
#19
  • May 10, 2006
  • #19
5spd GT said:
No, I said "probably"...re-read please.
Click to expand...

Re-read, and your statement was incorrect. We are in agreement that the 160 t-stat is doing more harm than good, but it is not "probably keeping it in open loop", it is not "maybe keeping it on open loop", it is NOT keeping it in open loop. That is a common misconception that the eec does not go into closed loop until it reaches operating temp. The change over into closed loop is time based, not temp based. The delay is partly temp based, meaning the colder it is, the longer the delay, but it does not wait for operating temps to be reached. I'm not picking on you directly, just clearing up the facts.
 

tomustang

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#20
  • May 10, 2006
  • #20
the search function does work http://forums.stangnet.com/search.php
 
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