another "what mods next" thread...

mhorn0817

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Apr 27, 2006
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im sure it gets posted up alot but figured it couldnt hurt to ask...i know the basic concept is to get as much air in and out of the motor as ya can, so ive already done slp LT headers,x-pipe and cat back,get a kn air filter,160 thermostat and slp underdrive pullies...so next i was thinking cold air intake, TB and upper plenum....to get some more air in....what size tb should i go with? also whats your opinions on gears? 373 or 410s for my 02 stang gt? thanks alot in advance!!
 
70mm TB if your staying N/A. Go Accufab, and go 75mm TB if you are planning on getting blown in the future.

If you aren't on the highway (interstate) a lot, go with the 4:10's...if you are or you want to be blown later, stick with 3:73's...

Edit: Change out that 160* t-stat for a 180* or better yet, a stock one.
 
mustang02gt said:
thanks for the tips, what wrong with the 160 stat?

It is probably hurting you more than helping. Probably keeping your car in open loop, which gives different parameters to the computer, running a bit richer, less gas mileage.

The main reason for not keeping the 160* t-stat is because it isn't allowing the water/coolant mixture to stay in the radiator and let the radiator do it's job. It needs to cool it down, you are close to making the coolant/water mixture to continiously cycle...just my opinion on things.
 
5spd GT said:
It is probably hurting you more than helping. Probably keeping your car in open loop, which gives different parameters to the computer, running a bit richer, less gas mileage.

The main reason for not keeping the 160* t-stat is because it isn't allowing the water/coolant mixture to stay in the radiator and let the radiator do it's job. It needs to cool it down, you are close to making the coolant/water mixture to continiously cycle...just my opinion on things.

It won't keep the car from going into closed loop, the eec will go into closed loop long before it reaches operating temp. But, what it will do is keep the eec from switching over to the base fuel table. The switch over temp for going from the "startup fuel table" to the "base fuel table" is 180. The startup fuel table is richer, so unless specific parameters in the EEC have changed, it is better to stick with the stock t-stat.
 
jstreet0204 said:
It won't keep the car from going into closed loop, the eec will go into closed loop long before it reaches operating temp. But, what it will do is keep the eec from switching over to the base fuel table. The switch over temp for going from the "startup fuel table" to the "base fuel table" is 180. The startup fuel table is richer, so unless specific parameters in the EEC have changed, it is better to stick with the stock t-stat.

Looks like what I typed, except for the exact temp when the fuel table changes...I think in 5.0L terms sometimes:)
 
i would go with the 70mm t/b unless your going to get nos or a s/c later on.

3.73 vs 4.10...I got 3.73s and i like them. I am going to but a s/c on her as soon as I am done with school. so 3.73 is perfect for me. and i do alot of commute driving to get to school.

if oyu cant decide then go with the 3.90's...also gears will prob be what you feel the most when it comes to a single mod.

have you thought about getting a chip or handheld programer?
 
Go with 75mm, Accufab is an excellent choice. I wouldn't go 70mm if staying N/A, because you never know, you might change your mind in the future. I originally was staying N/A but now I want a power adder. And if it doesn't hurt, then why not?
 
5spd GT said:
Looks like what I typed, except for the exact temp when the fuel table changes...I think in 5.0L terms sometimes:)

No, you said it will keep the car in open loop. I was just trying to make it clear that it wouldn't. loop state and the fuel tables are not related in that sense. Your car will go into closed loop at temps under 160 it will just use a different fuel table.
 
jstreet0204 said:
No, you said it will keep the car in open loop. I was just trying to make it clear that it wouldn't. loop state and the fuel tables are not related in that sense. Your car will go into closed loop at temps under 160 it will just use a different fuel table.

No, I said "probably"...re-read please.
 
well i got the slp performance pac 330....you can see it on their site. came with headers ,x pipe,catback,air filter,under drive pullies,160 theromstat and a daiblo predator tune with a pre tune with the parts just installed, so im assuming the stat should be ok since it was diablo tuned that way....next will probably be the intake,tb/plenum combo, then gears, then adjsutable struts thanks for the advice
 
mustang02gt said:
well i got the slp performance pac 330....you can see it on their site. came with headers ,x pipe,catback,air filter,under drive pullies,160 theromstat and a daiblo predator tune with a pre tune with the parts just installed, so im assuming the stat should be ok since it was diablo tuned that way....next will probably be the intake,tb/plenum combo, then gears, then adjsutable struts thanks for the advice

Are you going to eventually do cams?
 
5spd GT said:
No, I said "probably"...re-read please.

Re-read, and your statement was incorrect. We are in agreement that the 160 t-stat is doing more harm than good, but it is not "probably keeping it in open loop", it is not "maybe keeping it on open loop", it is NOT keeping it in open loop. That is a common misconception that the eec does not go into closed loop until it reaches operating temp. The change over into closed loop is time based, not temp based. The delay is partly temp based, meaning the colder it is, the longer the delay, but it does not wait for operating temps to be reached. I'm not picking on you directly, just clearing up the facts.