Antifreeze leak

Its not your problem, does the shop warranty their work? if so take it back. I'm a over 30 yr exp. mechanic and if my customer had this problem and did not return and have fix it for free or at least tell me I screwed up. I would not be happy w them.
 
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I understand the shop is far from you and you would like to fix it yourself, these leaks are a p.i.t.a., Clean really well, use good rtv on both sides of gasket and on bolts , if this fails take the trip back to The shop and let them have at it.
 
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I had an endless leak on my Tacomas thermostat housing and I did not realize that most gasket sealer-makers dont resist anti-freeze. I got the special stuff that can handle anti-freeze. Thats how I finally fixed it.
 
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I say take it back to the shop. The more you mess with it the more opportunity they will have to say that it is due to you messing with it, which we know isn't the case. I HIGHLY suggest you do not use any kind of "stop leak" in your car.

Chris
 
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What thermostat housing are you using?
I agree with the lower intake water passage leak but disagree with attempting to tighten it down more, you chance cracking the intake where the bolt hole is unless the lower gasket is new too, put a torque wrench on it.
 
Make sure your thermostat bolts aren't too long. I've seen that cause leaks from not sealing completely. Very common issue.

I'm a certified Advanced engine performance technician ( sounds good )...been working on cars over 20yrs....if it isn't a cadillac Northstar engine do not put stop leak in it.

You want to use surf glue on the thermostat gasket...blue permatex....put a little to hold the thermostat in the housing first. ( just the metal that goes in the recess ). Let it sit for a few minutes to hold the thermostat in. Then coat both sides of the gasket and put it on. If the bolts go through to coolant ports they may need sealer too.
 
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Either Permatex form a gasket #2 or #3 is a good solution for water pump and thermostat gaskets. I used 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive on both sides of a thermostat gasket once, and it made an excellent seal. If the gasket had not ripped for disassembly, I would have never got it apart again. ;-)

Permatex High Tack Spray a Gasket sounds worth a try.
https://www.permatex.com/products/g...ts/permatex-high-tack-spray-a-gasket-sealant/
 
whoever is recommended pouring any type of stop leak in needs to stop giving that advice . That :poo: is terrible.

What it sounds like needs to happen is the intake needs to come off and be resealed .

Sounds to me where the “ China rail “ is where we throw the gasket away and use permatex to not have the leak you are describing is infact leaking. Im guessing without any picture of what you have going on or seeing in person .

take it back to shop if you aren’t comfortable doing it and tell them you want it fixed
 
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I've seen some 20$ thermostat gaskets, has anyone ever used them? & could 1 of them help my leak issue? Thanks for all of the input i've already been given.
Stock gasket. Dimple rtv very thin on both sides and never a leak .
 
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This right here.
 

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Make sure your thermostat bolts aren't too long. I've seen that cause leaks from not sealing completely. Very common issue.

I'm a certified Advanced engine performance technician ( sounds good )...been working on cars over 20yrs....if it isn't a cadillac Northstar engine do not put stop leak in it.

You want to use surf glue on the thermostat gasket...blue permatex....put a little to hold the thermostat in the housing first. ( just the metal that goes in the recess ). Let it sit for a few minutes to hold the thermostat in. Then coat both sides of the gasket and put it on. If the bolts go through to coolant ports they may need sealer too.
It's the stock housing & bolts, I installed it just the way u said, minus the permatex on the side of the gasket mounting to the lower intake, I was told to stay away from doing that?
 
Make sure the bolt holes are clean, the surface is flat on the intake side, look at the bolt holes to make sure they have not pulled out from over tightening, smear a little rtv on one side of the gasket, make sure the t stat is oriented correct ( some have a bleeder hole or a little gizmo that is like a loose plug, very small, this should be at the top) and put the gasket on the housing with the t sat in place, let it sit for a half hour or so, make sure the t stat is still in place then smear a little rtv on the intake side of the gasket or the intake it self, install the housing to the intake tightening the bolts evenly, I could not find a torque spec in my magic book but it's not a lot. Snug one bolt then the other going back and forth till tight. I let stuff set over night but a hour or two is sufficient.
 
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