...I shouldn't put a little tackweld on the back of the stud where it threads into the header? I just scored a screamin' deal ($75) on a like new set of FMS stainless shorty headers. My only complaint about these headers (my third set) is that the stud always comes out when you separate the pipe from the header, due to the self-locking nut. I thought a small tack would remedy that problem and be reversible in the future if needed.
Any reason why...
- Thread starter wythors
- Start date
the only issue I can really think of is replacing it. If the threads ever become stripped or damage replacing the stud would seem to be a pain even if it is just a tack weld. I have thought about this as well when I had hedman headers but there was no stud and there was a bolt one side with a nut on the other. what a pain that was.
Remove the stud, cut a hacksaw slot in the end of the stud that threads into the header flange. Looks like a screw head with a 3/8" deep slot when you get finished. Screw the stud back in with the slotted part of the stud in the header flange. Keep tightening the stud until a significant part of the slotted part of the stud sticks out. The take a cold chisel and hammer it in the slot until it spreads out. You have now locked the stud in place without welding it. With some persuasion to shrink the spread apart slot, you can remove the stud if necessary.
I must have not gotten enough sleep last night because I think that's funny....
It was kind of intended to be...
If you just put a tiny dot of weld on the stud, you could easily grind it off if you needed to take the bolt out. If you're accurate with your welds, i don't see a problem with it. Just put it where it's easy to get to with a grinder to make it easy on yourself if you ever do need to grind it off and don't over do it.
