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Any Tips for Spark Plugs that Won't Budge

  • Thread starter Thread starter norcalsvt
  • Start date Start date Jul 25, 2004
N

norcalsvt

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May 4, 2004
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San Francisco,CA
Jul 25, 2004
#1
  • Jul 25, 2004
  • #1
Trying to change my plugs. Have autolite 45's. They are no more than a year old. New block, so it's the first time it's been changed. I couldn't budge any of them. Tried 6 or them & no go. I don't want to force it & break the head, so I have stopped. Any tips on what I should do? Is it safe to spray some type of wd40 or similiar on the threads & try to let it penetrate? I would hate to bring it in to shop just to change the plugs, but I don't want to risk breaking any of them. Can't figure out why they are so tight or how they got so tight. Heat?
 
R

Ronstang

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Apr 4, 2004
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Jul 25, 2004
#2
  • Jul 25, 2004
  • #2
Aluminun or cast iron heads? If they are cast iron then spray a little WD-40 or other penetrant and get a longer cheater bar, the plugs might break but the heads will be fine. If they are aluminum then spray them and try again but very carefully. If you did not use antisieze on the plugs in an aluminum head you will might be removing the heads and taking them to the machine shop to have steel spark plug seats installed.
 
6

67GTA-FB429

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Jul 25, 2004
#3
  • Jul 25, 2004
  • #3
what about warming it up and trying to remove them while it is hot?? With a small block there should be plenty of room so you don't get burned.
 
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norcalsvt

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Jul 25, 2004
#4
  • Jul 25, 2004
  • #4
Ronstang said:
Aluminun or cast iron heads? If they are cast iron then spray a little WD-40 or other penetrant and get a longer cheater bar, the plugs might break but the heads will be fine. If they are aluminum then spray them and try again but very carefully. If you did not use antisieze on the plugs in an aluminum head you will might be removing the heads and taking them to the machine shop to have steel spark plug seats installed.
Click to expand...


they are cast iron heads, so I will spray some wd40 on them then. What do you mean the plugs might break, but the head will be fine? Do you mean with the cast iron head, I can pretty much use alot of force to get them out without risk to the heads themselves?
 
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norcalsvt

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Jul 25, 2004
#5
  • Jul 25, 2004
  • #5
67GTA-FB429 said:
what about warming it up and trying to remove them while it is hot?? With a small block there should be plenty of room so you don't get burned.
Click to expand...


willing to try that to. I will warm it up & give it a go with the wd40 too.
 
R

Ronstang

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#6
  • Jul 25, 2004
  • #6
Yeah, with cast iron if you slip you might break off the insulator part of a plug or two but eventually you will get them out. You will not hurt the head.
 

Hack

15 Year Member
Mar 23, 2004
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Minneapolis
Jul 25, 2004
#7
  • Jul 25, 2004
  • #7
I would use a better penetrant like PB Blaster. wd40 doesn't really do much. Hopefully the heat idea will take care of it.

..Oh, and when you put the new plugs in, put some Anti Seize grease on the threads.
 
6

67GTA-FB429

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#8
  • Jul 25, 2004
  • #8
Get a BIG lever, too. And make sure you are turning in the right direction (personal experience).
 
N

norcalsvt

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May 4, 2004
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San Francisco,CA
Jul 26, 2004
#9
  • Jul 26, 2004
  • #9
well, I finally got them all off. The guys who built the engine really tightened them.Every one of them were very tight.
thanks for all the tips & I did put anti seize on the new plugs.
 

2nd Mustang

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Feb 24, 2002
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Southern California
Jul 26, 2004
#10
  • Jul 26, 2004
  • #10
67GTA-FB429 said:
And make sure you are turning in the right direction (personal experience).
Click to expand...

Righty tighty, lefty loosey
 
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67GTA-FB429

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#11
  • Jul 26, 2004
  • #11
Is that how it works?? I thought you just turned until it became a slip joint....
 
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