Any tips/tricks for doing a oil dipstick on a canton pan?
- Thread starter SAY GO
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You use 7qts total in the motor, I find that once it is fired up the marks usually are not dead on. So I suggest marking them, not a big deal use a center punch to put a mark.
I only use the 1 piece gaskets, Fel-Pro 34508R, I put a bead on the front and rear of the pan, a thin coating on the pan and tighten it down. I do not use the stock rail supports, since the rails are not flat they will not work properly. With out the rail supports the stock bolts are also to long so I use ARP oil pan bolts which are shorter.
I only use the 1 piece gaskets, Fel-Pro 34508R, I put a bead on the front and rear of the pan, a thin coating on the pan and tighten it down. I do not use the stock rail supports, since the rails are not flat they will not work properly. With out the rail supports the stock bolts are also to long so I use ARP oil pan bolts which are shorter.
opps. well I used the rail. I didn't see anything really different than the stock pan. The pan that I bought had a groove similar to my stock pan so I slapped it back together. I guess we'll have to see if it leaks or not. I also noticed my dipstick tube needs to be shortened so that the stick will stick out and be exposed to the motor oil as well. did you have to cut yours as well?
I used a one piece gasket, Canton 7qt pan, the stock pan spreader rails, and a dab of silicone in the corners of the front and rear mains.
11k miles and no leaks.
I don't understand why you wouldn't want to use the stock spreaders though? These help to apply pressue to the entire length of the pan rails, instead of providing point loads at each bolt. I thought that was what they were for. Even if the weren't flat they would be able to perform that function.
Maybe I misunderstood?
Just trying to fully understand.
By the way...
that is me in the avatar
jason
11k miles and no leaks.
I don't understand why you wouldn't want to use the stock spreaders though? These help to apply pressue to the entire length of the pan rails, instead of providing point loads at each bolt. I thought that was what they were for. Even if the weren't flat they would be able to perform that function.
Maybe I misunderstood?
Just trying to fully understand.
By the way...
that is me in the avatar
jason
vristang said:that is me in the avatar
jason
lol
Well the Canton has more pronounced embossed areas in the pan rail and I found they did not let the gasket clamp down as much as the stocker, I had 2 of them leak. Once I got rid of the rails, changed nothing with my procedure I have yet to have one leak and I do a ton of them with customers stuff.
But what do we know Canton says they only recommend a 4 pc gasket set....which I hate. If you have had good luck with the rail supports, leave it alone. I also tend to put a little blue loctite on the bolts to keep them from backing out.
I use the Fel-Pro 34508R gasket, thick re-enforced metal core, perma dry outside layers BLUE or GRAY, which 1 pc did yu use?
Rick 91GT said:
I have no idea what the part number was
But it was not one that has a metal core.
I didn't know the metal cores existed when I bought this pan gasket at Schmucks.
I had forgotten about the embossed sections of the pan. Now that I ponder on it, the use of the stock rails could cause problems.
4-pc gasket setsThanks for the pointers Rick,
jason
thanks for the info guys!Similar threads
