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anybody have trouble with their electric choke sticking?

  • Thread starter Thread starter steel1212
  • Start date Start date Mar 1, 2006
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steel1212

Active Member
Jun 24, 2004
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Frankfort, Ky
Mar 1, 2006
#1
  • Mar 1, 2006
  • #1
I'm haveing trouble with mine. It will stick just enough to idle a few hundred rpms higher than it should. Pop, the hood, hit the cam and its gone until I start it again. These are the reasons why I'm thinking about ditching it!
 

fasttback

New Member
Apr 16, 2005
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Northern CA
Mar 1, 2006
#2
  • Mar 1, 2006
  • #2
What carb are you running? My Demon just started doing the same thing - pop the hood, flick the fast idle cam and things are back to normal. May try lubricating the cam and check for binding?
 
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steel1212

Active Member
Jun 24, 2004
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Frankfort, Ky
Mar 1, 2006
#3
  • Mar 1, 2006
  • #3
street avenger 670. I'll try some wd40 and see if that works.
 
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danny clemens

Member
May 4, 2005
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Mar 1, 2006
#4
  • Mar 1, 2006
  • #4
You might try some carb cleaner first to get all the dirt off and then the
WD40.
 

68keyblr

20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 17, 2003
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Arizona
Mar 1, 2006
#5
  • Mar 1, 2006
  • #5
I am having the exact same problem with my Edelbrock 600. I did the carb cleaner/WD40 thing but it didn't help. Binding doesn't seem to be the issue. I can see that the electric choke simply isn't rotating enough (or at all) to disengage the fast idle cam.

Do I have to replace the electric choke???
 

Cannoball888

New Member
Dec 25, 2005
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Gainesville, FL
Mar 1, 2006
#6
  • Mar 1, 2006
  • #6
View attachment 485138

I pity da fool who use an electric choke. Nuttin' but jibba-jabba. Use a manual like a real man.
 

68keyblr

20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 17, 2003
946
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49
Arizona
Mar 1, 2006
#7
  • Mar 1, 2006
  • #7
Cannoball888 said:
View attachment 485128

I pity da fool who use an electric choke. Nuttin' but jibba-jabba. Use a manual like a real man.
Click to expand...

LOL!!!
 

DukeGnarley

Member
Apr 2, 2003
597
2
19
Auburn/Ellensburg, Wa
Mar 1, 2006
#8
  • Mar 1, 2006
  • #8
i actually met mr. T once. best day of my life.
 
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Steve69

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May 11, 2005
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Mar 2, 2006
#9
  • Mar 2, 2006
  • #9
Im having problems with my Electric Choke Period! I have a new Holley
Avenger 570 and it starts and shuts down right away. It will start again
but then I have to keep hitting the gas to keep it running. Ive checked
the wire and there is 12 volts there. Ive adjusted it richer and also adjusted
the fast Idle higher. Once its warm it runs great. It also pops out the
Carb when its cold also. Do you have any of these problems. I thought
when I went to a Electric choke I would have to pump a couple of times
and it run until I it the pedal again to drop the fast Idle. My last carb was
a Carter with a Manual Choke and that didn't work very well either so I
really have nothing to compare to.

Thanks for the Info
 
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steel1212

Active Member
Jun 24, 2004
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Frankfort, Ky
Mar 2, 2006
#10
  • Mar 2, 2006
  • #10
Cannoball888 said:
I pity da fool who use an electric choke. Nuttin' but jibba-jabba. Use a manual like a real man.
Click to expand...

How many people that have manual chokes actually use them? I mean I'm not sticking a knob in my car just to pull on it when I can just ride the throttle for a little while until it gets going....if I didn't have the electric. If I get rid of the electric I'll put the 650 dp on it and remove the choke tower completely.
 
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DJCarbine

New Member
May 4, 2005
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Mar 2, 2006
#11
  • Mar 2, 2006
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The last time my electric choke stuck, I took a pair of pliers and ripped the butterfly on the choke out

That has since been fixed
 
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Steve69

Member
May 11, 2005
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Mar 2, 2006
#12
  • Mar 2, 2006
  • #12
Thats great if you live in Southern Cal or Arizona but here in Wisconsin
we have 70 degree temps about 3 maybe 4 months out of the year.
So its nice to have a nice starting car when its a little colder.
 

68keyblr

20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 17, 2003
946
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Arizona
Mar 2, 2006
#13
  • Mar 2, 2006
  • #13
So does anyone have a solution for the electric choke problems? Do we just need to replace the whole electric choke or is there a simpler (and less expensive) way?
 

yeloxr7

Member
Apr 18, 2005
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Mar 2, 2006
#14
  • Mar 2, 2006
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I bet the heating element is bad or is not receiving 12V. Or the choke is not adjusted or installed properly.
 
M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.
Founding Member
Feb 26, 2002
2,976
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North Carolina
Mar 2, 2006
#15
  • Mar 2, 2006
  • #15
Wd 40 will not help if something mechanical is sticking; you need a spray grease in a can. Do not get any inside the carb. If all else fails, call the Holley help line.
 

pabear89

Active Member
Apr 15, 2003
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46
High in the Hills of So Ca with the Voices in My H
Mar 3, 2006
#16
  • Mar 3, 2006
  • #16
68keyblr said:
So does anyone have a solution for the electric choke problems? Do we just need to replace the whole electric choke or is there a simpler (and less expensive) way?
Click to expand...

maybe start checking from the beginning of the system?

12v at the choke wire key on. yes/no
Is it properly grounded?
( using alum intake may require an additional ground to block wire)
Chokecoil ohm test ohm meter pos to ground, resistence? yes/no
no. bad coil element.

yes. Check connection of Chokecoil to linkage.
loosen ret ring on chokecoil, pull throttle half open turn coil clockwise.
is linkage freely moving the chokeplate. yes/no

No. repair and connect.
yes. set choke to closed setting,release throttle, tighten ret ring.
test starting.

eng rev's to high/low,sticks.
check and adjust fast idle cam for free movement.
For high fast idle and slight sticking unscrew fastidle screw.

Quick ref, while choke in open position and throttle on stop screw.
pull throttle back setting choke.
check the gap on the throttle stop screw.
no gap tighten fast idle screw.
gap too wide loosen fast idle screw.


Cost? I'll Bill ya.


PB
 
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Steve69

Member
May 11, 2005
233
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16
Mar 3, 2006
#17
  • Mar 3, 2006
  • #17
Thanks Pabear89 for the great info. Ill be giving it a try.

Thanks
 

thehueypilot

Active Member
Feb 25, 2004
1,084
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37
Medina,Tennessee
Mar 3, 2006
#18
  • Mar 3, 2006
  • #18
Now you know why they went to fuel injection.....I had the same issue and found the red plastic cam was missing the weight in the end of the arm which helps it to drop off to the next step on the cam. If it has the weight but does not drop freely you might want to take it apart and sand it a little free it up more. Plastic parts sometimes still have flashing still attached which needs trimmed off. If you use any lube on it it will attract dirt and stick again. It must be clean and operate smoothly.
 

gtss

Member
Apr 30, 2002
133
2
19
Airdrie,Alberta
Mar 4, 2006
#19
  • Mar 4, 2006
  • #19
Quite frankly I can't beleive all you having problems with chokes and you live in the southern states. I'm in Canada, we currently have a foot of fresh snow( no I'm not driving the 65) but i don't have a choke.
however most of the issues you have described sound like adjustment issues. the choke thermostatic coil should be set tight enough to close the choke plate when the engine is cold. if the car start then stalls almost immediately it is usually the vacuum pull off that is out of adjustment or not working. as soon as vacuum is created( engine running) the choke plate should open up slightly. it needs air to keep running if you cosult your appropriate carb manual it will tell you how much it should open. or you can try trial and error, usually the plate should pull open around 1/8" or so. some are adjustable at the vacuum pot via a screw, some require minor bending of the linkage
G
 
L

Leonforte

New Member
Jan 18, 2006
19
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Mar 5, 2006
#20
  • Mar 5, 2006
  • #20
manual choke

Manual choke is the way to go! You don't have to rely on heating an electric element or using hot air to expand a spring.You have 100% control on how much or how little to open the choke and when you want you can completely open the choke.I'va always installed manual chokes on my carburated cars and I never had choke problems.I even devised a"counter spring" installed on the butterfly to keep it open under a little tension.
 
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