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Anyone have this??

  • Thread starter Thread starter 2fast4u770
  • Start date Start date Nov 7, 2018

2fast4u770

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Jan 16, 2011
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#1
  • Nov 7, 2018
  • #1
Is anyone running this? or the Panhard and torque arms, or all three? First time building rear suspension and help some good knowledge and help
 

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Blown88GT

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Nov 7, 2018
#2
  • Nov 7, 2018
  • #2
Don't need it if using tubular UCA's & LCA's with poly bushings on all but the diff. attachment.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
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Nov 7, 2018
#3
  • Nov 7, 2018
  • #3
More of a drag racer mod. High HP plus sticky tires.

However at that power level you should probably just weld the axle tubes. This looks like a stopgap solution.

PHB and torque arm would be geared more towards road course. What are you trying to set the car up for?
 

2fast4u770

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#4
  • Nov 7, 2018
  • #4
Mustang5L5 said:
More of a drag racer mod. High HP plus sticky tires.

However at that power level you should probably just weld the axle tubes. This looks like a stopgap solution.

PHB and torque arm would be geared more towards road course. What are you trying to set the car up for?
Click to expand...
Weekend car with a few passes a month at the strip
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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#5
  • Nov 7, 2018
  • #5
Welding the axle tubes is a must for putting any real power down on slicks at the track. I had a nitrous car and tweaked the tubes with only about 350 - 400hp ( guesstimate ) and twisted the studs. I avoided that catastrophe but destroyed the axle housing.

For serious power 500+ I would get the rear gurdled....or just put in a 9 inch in and not worry.

A good set of axles...c clip eliminators...and welded tubes will go a long way.
 

2fast4u770

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Nov 7, 2018
#6
  • Nov 7, 2018
  • #6
90sickfox said:
Welding the axle tubes is a must for putting any real power down on slicks at the track. I had a nitrous car and tweaked the tubes with only about 350 - 400hp ( guesstimate ) and twisted the studs. I avoided that catastrophe but destroyed the axle housing.

For serious power 500+ I would get the rear gurdled....or just put in a 9 inch in and not worry.

A good set of axles...c clip eliminators...and welded tubes will go a long way.
Click to expand...
I’ve heard that welding the tubes weaken the rear
 

2fast4u770

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#7
  • Nov 7, 2018
  • #7
2fast4u770 said:
I’ve heard that welding the tubes weaken the rear
Click to expand...
And as far as welding is that something a pro should do or can I do it. I’m not the best welder but I can weld, just won’t look prettt
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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#8
  • Nov 7, 2018
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Welding the tubes will not weaken it if done properly. I've never seen a welded one break. You'd want a professional to do it.... or at least someone that can really weld. There's a rivet that has to be welded, too. Don't forget torque box reinforcement while you're there.

Mine was done by a local guy that did a bunch of race chassis work. He had a jig just for welding 8.8 rears.
 
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TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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#9
  • Nov 7, 2018
  • #9
2fast4u770 said:
I’ve heard that welding the tubes weaken the rear
Click to expand...

Not if it’s done right and in a jig . I did mine myself with my buddy years ago and it’s fine and we didn’t have a jig. Little common sense goes along way as far as keeping the heat even . A welded tube 8.8 with 9 inch ends will support 4 digit hp without blinking .
 
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CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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#10
  • Nov 8, 2018
  • #10
If you're not the " best welder" then you should leave it to somebody that is. Welding the tubes requires a process, and somebody who knows what's gonna happen when they put that much heat to the axle tubes is a must.

An 8.8 that has lived a hard life will have tweaked tubes. Some are so freakin bad you can stand over the rear end and see how far forward, or twisted, or forward and twisted each tube has pulled at the brake end. ( usually a rear that had slicks on it)
Welding the tubes, welds dissimilar metals together ( usually never works) but in the case of a ford rearend, somehow seems to work beautifully. The welder you use has to be capable of welding 1/4" stuff, and typically would mean that it's not gonna be a 110v piece. Once the welding process starts, you cannot stop.....The weld bead has to be continuous all the way around, or you'll be able to literally watch the tube move one way or the other as heat from the weld will pull on it.

Unless you plan to drag race the car regularly with sticky tires I'd probably pass on that though..the same for the brace that you've pictured.
On the other hand,....if you do intend to drag race it weekly, than do both....welding the tubes will not stop them from bending,..the brace will. That brace is intended to do both w/o welding the tubes, but if using it, I'd weld the brace on, and forget welding the center to the axles.
 
Last edited: Nov 8, 2018
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2fast4u770

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#11
  • Nov 8, 2018
  • #11
Unfortunately there isn’t a real chassis or even race shop where I’m at and don’t want to drive hours to one, so I fell a brace is best just to be on the safe side. I also found this one. Think it could be better?
 

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