Anyone paid to have a shop put a cam in?
- Thread starter InMyPrimeSVT
- Start date
Unless you have upgraded heads, likely changing the cam on a 94 cobra will result in less hp than the cost is worth. Even with the gt40 irons on it.
Might as well have the heads valve jobbed, springs done, bowls cleaned up while you are getting into the engine.
then it will be worth the change.
I wouldn't refer to it as way too easy either, no it's not extremely hard, but tell that to all the peoples who's car's don't run right when they are done.
But $300-$500 sounds about right for the price, i'd expect the 500 though.
Might as well have the heads valve jobbed, springs done, bowls cleaned up while you are getting into the engine.
then it will be worth the change.
I wouldn't refer to it as way too easy either, no it's not extremely hard, but tell that to all the peoples who's car's don't run right when they are done.
But $300-$500 sounds about right for the price, i'd expect the 500 though.
Our shop rate is $45 per hour and I'm sure the Labor Time guide will call for around 7 hours R&R time plus parts, gaskets, fluids, etc. So that puts it about 400-425at my shop. And our labor rate up here is low on a national average.
legalize420gt95 said:
Agreed, all you need to do is pull the V covers to get the Rockers off so you can pull the pushrod and lifters out, but the heads can stay! you'll need valve cover gaskets, lower intake gaskets, upper intake gaskets, timing cover gasket, water pump gasket, water neck gasket (probably), and you'll prob end up replacing half the rotted out vac lines -
Good Luck man, i don t know how much but if i was a shop for that kind of stuff, it wouldn't be cheap cuz that def ISN'T EASY!! lol i wish i had enough wrench time under my belt to consider it easy - i guess it is though compared to a modular or an "under the dash" LS1 --
sickboystang said:
That sounds about right to me...and I agree the HP to $$ increase will be very little. If you do want to swap cams try a Crane 2031 it works very well with a stock Cobra set-up and you will increase HP and TQ across the entire curve.
I don't pull the heads either I have a set of the AFM cam tools, they work very well.
do it yourself it isn't that hard at all. just dont forget to loctite the timing gear to the cam. i didnt do it once and oops timing gear fell off and i was off to the head shop having new valves put in. worked out well though because now i have nitrous exhaust valves.
Rick, with the afm tools you can leave the intake on correct? Should "all" cams, even Buddy or Ed's be degreed when installed?
vann
vann
Ocalafox said:
Yes, you can leave the intake on. I wasn't sure how well they would work but it has saved me time over the last few years.
I degree them all.....Unless you have the lifter bore bushed and corrected you will rarely ever get pin piint numbers on a stock 5.0L block, you can adjust in 2 degree increments if you buy the correct chain, if it is within 1 degree that is as close as you can get.
Rick 91GT said:
I had the 2031 in my car with the stock heads, not sure how stout the gt40 stock springs are but with 1.7 rockers, i had some serious valve float at 5000+.
So you may need new springs, making the hp to dollar ratio even worse.
All cams - ESPECIALLY customs - should be degreed on install. Be sure the shop knows you want that -- they will likely quote it just based on a 'dot to dot' install; degreeing takes a bit more time; and of course you'll need an indexed/adjustable timing gear set.
The labor to put in my cam was essentially $0 because I replaced my stock cam while rebuilding the engine.The mechanic had to reinstall a cam whether it was the one he took out or a different one.Otherwise,I couldn't have justified spending $400+ to replace the stock cam,which with 1.7rr's is a pretty decent cam.
