Anyone paid to have a shop put a cam in?

InMyPrimeSVT · Dec 2, 2005

How much did you pay???

Modular2v · Dec 2, 2005

i personally wouldnt pay a dime because it is way too easy to do.....but i would expect anywhere from 300- 500$

2000xp8 · Dec 2, 2005

Unless you have upgraded heads, likely changing the cam on a 94 cobra will result in less hp than the cost is worth. Even with the gt40 irons on it.

Might as well have the heads valve jobbed, springs done, bowls cleaned up while you are getting into the engine.
then it will be worth the change.

I wouldn't refer to it as way too easy either, no it's not extremely hard, but tell that to all the peoples who's car's don't run right when they are done.

But $300-$500 sounds about right for the price, i'd expect the 500 though.

sickboystang · Dec 2, 2005

Our shop rate is $45 per hour and I'm sure the Labor Time guide will call for around 7 hours R&R time plus parts, gaskets, fluids, etc. So that puts it about 400-425at my shop. And our labor rate up here is low on a national average.

304billet · Dec 2, 2005

$700. need to pull the heads and intake. about 8 hrs @ $85/hr. Most shops charge $70.

legalize420 · Dec 2, 2005

304billet said:
$700. need to pull the heads and intake. about 8 hrs @ $85/hr. Most shops charge $70.

no need to pull the heads

Modular2v · Dec 2, 2005

304billet said:
$700. need to pull the heads and intake. about 8 hrs @ $85/hr. Most shops charge $70.

no need to pull the heads at all......

Paul Perreca · Dec 3, 2005

legalize420gt95 said:
no need to pull the heads

Agreed, all you need to do is pull the V covers to get the Rockers off so you can pull the pushrod and lifters out, but the heads can stay! you'll need valve cover gaskets, lower intake gaskets, upper intake gaskets, timing cover gasket, water pump gasket, water neck gasket (probably), and you'll prob end up replacing half the rotted out vac lines -

Good Luck man, i don t know how much but if i was a shop for that kind of stuff, it wouldn't be cheap cuz that def ISN'T EASY!! lol i wish i had enough wrench time under my belt to consider it easy - i guess it is though compared to a modular or an "under the dash" LS1 --

Rick 91GT · Dec 3, 2005

sickboystang said:
Our shop rate is $45 per hour and I'm sure the Labor Time guide will call for around 7 hours R&R time plus parts, gaskets, fluids, etc. So that puts it about 400-425at my shop. And our labor rate up here is low on a national average.

That sounds about right to me...and I agree the HP to $$ increase will be very little. If you do want to swap cams try a Crane 2031 it works very well with a stock Cobra set-up and you will increase HP and TQ across the entire curve.

I don't pull the heads either I have a set of the AFM cam tools, they work very well.

86bluecobra · Dec 3, 2005

do it yourself it isn't that hard at all. just dont forget to loctite the timing gear to the cam. i didnt do it once and oops timing gear fell off and i was off to the head shop having new valves put in. worked out well though because now i have nitrous exhaust valves.

Ocalafox · Dec 3, 2005

Rick, with the afm tools you can leave the intake on correct? Should "all" cams, even Buddy or Ed's be degreed when installed?

vann

Rick 91GT · Dec 3, 2005

Ocalafox said:
Rick, with the afm tools you can leave the intake on correct? Should "all" cams, even Buddy or Ed's be degreed when installed?

vann

Yes, you can leave the intake on. I wasn't sure how well they would work but it has saved me time over the last few years.

I degree them all.....Unless you have the lifter bore bushed and corrected you will rarely ever get pin piint numbers on a stock 5.0L block, you can adjust in 2 degree increments if you buy the correct chain, if it is within 1 degree that is as close as you can get.

2000xp8 · Dec 3, 2005

Rick 91GT said:
That sounds about right to me...and I agree the HP to $$ increase will be very little. If you do want to swap cams try a Crane 2031 it works very well with a stock Cobra set-up and you will increase HP and TQ across the entire curve.

I don't pull the heads either I have a set of the AFM cam tools, they work very well.

I had the 2031 in my car with the stock heads, not sure how stout the gt40 stock springs are but with 1.7 rockers, i had some serious valve float at 5000+.
So you may need new springs, making the hp to dollar ratio even worse.

Michael Yount · Dec 3, 2005

All cams - ESPECIALLY customs - should be degreed on install. Be sure the shop knows you want that -- they will likely quote it just based on a 'dot to dot' install; degreeing takes a bit more time; and of course you'll need an indexed/adjustable timing gear set.

RYC CUKR · Dec 3, 2005

The AFM tappet tools work great.

I used them when I installed my stage 1 cam and it made it a lot quicker. I wasn't sure how well they would work when I got them but those magnets are pretty d@@n strong.

PRO50SC · Dec 3, 2005

sickboystang said:
Our shop rate is $45 per hour and I'm sure the Labor Time guide will call for around 7 hours R&R time plus parts, gaskets, fluids, etc. So that puts it about 400-425at my shop. And our labor rate up here is low on a national average.

Jesus dude, 45 bucks/hr. You guys work for peanuts.

Topdowncruise · Dec 3, 2005

The labor to put in my cam was essentially $0 because I replaced my stock cam while rebuilding the engine.The mechanic had to reinstall a cam whether it was the one he took out or a different one.Otherwise,I couldn't have justified spending $400+ to replace the stock cam,which with 1.7rr's is a pretty decent cam.

Black1987Stang · Dec 3, 2005

I vote for the afm tools work good too and save lots of time

Anyone paid to have a shop put a cam in?

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