I have one in my 66 coupe. I don't have any pics with the seat in (and the interior is still somewhat apart or I would snap one for ya), but here is a link to the install page on my site. Mine has the diagonal and the cross bar, but you can see where the main hoop mounts.
You are gonna need a crossbar to mount the seatbelts correctly. Using a rollbar with crossbracing also renders your backseat pretty much unusable. Not sure if thats a problem for you or not, just pointing it out. I got a bar without crossbrace (4-point) in my 67 vert.
I have the Autopower bar in my 67. You can get it with a removeable crossbrace so that you can still use your rear seat. However, I don't know that I'd want anyone back there: in an accident, I can imagine that a head could hit the bar even with seat belts on. If you want a rollbar, I'd recommend that you not put anyone back there. Just my .02 and I'm sure others will say it's fine, but I wouldn't want to risk it.
Good point Lance, my rollbar is from Autopower too and the crossbrace was not an option for the vert version.
I am going to use padding on the rollbar, the main issue with head-to-bar contact will be in a side impact situation. Of course it will be less severe than the head-to-ground contact in a rollover (remember this is a convertible).
I just put a 8 point in my 67 coupe. You should not use the back seat because the bar is right at the chest if someone was in the back. In addition, I was working in the car this weekend and it is pure He__ to get into the rear seat. I am a small guy and had problems. If you send me an email add. I will send you some pics. I have not figured how to post pic's here. Also, I spent a little extra and had two swingout bars done for the doors. If you drive the car on the street it is worth the extra $. The bars also can be removed.
I have an 8-pt cage in my 67. Mine is from competition Engineering. They have an option called the "rear seat retention kit", instead of the rear struts being straight tubes and traveling right through the rear seat they have a 50 degree bend in them that allows them to follow the roof and then slope down through the package tray.
I left out the side impact member so that a person is still able to climb into the back seat. I figured I didnt need the side impact member as the only reason I installed the cage was on my body man's reccomendation to save my rear pillars from cracking again.
With the cage and subframe connectors the body is extremely rigid.
I purchased mine from www.artmorrison.com in Tacoma Wa. Price was around $150.00. They still need some work, but the end result was good. You will also need the 6x6 steel plates to mount them on. One goes on top, one on bottom, and the bolts go through both. I told them I wanted to retain the back seat, and that is how they made it. To install your harness, you will of course need the crossbar.
Yes. Just finished putting in the $169 Competition Engineering "kit" into mine.
Be aware the "kit" consists of a main hoop that pretty well fits your car and a box of generic "rest of it". Bars vaguely cut to size, the 6" plates, some reinforcement brackets, and some generic instructions. All fine by me as a fairly custom install is what I wanted anyway. The main hoop fit quite nicely. had to trim about an inch and a half off the bottom of the legs, but the bends are quite good.
The "door bars" have a bend in them. I ended up using them as rear struts because the bend was in the right place to sort of follow the roofline. Be aware that the ruling body at American Iron (and maybe SCCA?) do NOT allow anything but arrow straight rear struts. I don't care, but if you are interested in fooling around on any sort of racetrack at some point it's best to look long and hard at their rules for this sort of thing before you start welding stuff.
The straight bars I used as actual door bars. I quickly realized two things during mockup. One-I've grown too old to be crawling through the narrow gap between the steering wheel and doorbar. Swingouts are a must-have. Two- custom seats, Deluxe door panels, and straight bars do not get along. My door bars are sort of S-shaped now (thank you local shop that let me use their press and curved dies-otherwise I'd have been screwed). I looked at the swing out kits, decided they looked cheesy, and made my own with pin releases. Took me FOREVER to get them right and just recently finished them. Next are belts and padding.
If you plan to ever put anyone in the back seat, make your crossbar removable. If they are belted in, that bar is what their face will hit even with a smallish bump. One word-DEADLY. My back seat is there purely for looks.
Speaking of looks, got to Clubphoto.com and use "agypsyrider at yahoo.com" (dunno if I'm allowed to write my actual email here-replace "at" with @ and leave out the spaces) to view quite a few pics across three albums. And some other junk.
i have been toying with the idea of using a 69 shelby fastback bar in my 69 coupe, complete with inertia reels. the shelby bar doesn't have the rear struts and isn't really "approved" for a rollover but i think it is probably better than nothing also they tie into the roof where the factory shoulder harness mounts so that will help stabilize it in the event of a rollover and i was planning on somehow tying them in to the subframe connectors as well. however i don't know if i'll be able to roll the rear windows up and down with that bar or not, still have some research to do.
Here area couple of mine in my 67. I made the back seat myself from wood. You could fit someone back there but it would be very dangeous. Also my car is dirty, I just finished the motor.