AOD and Header problems?
- Thread starter 65notch
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wild70stang
New Member
- Nov 11, 2005
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If you really want long tube headers and a AOD tranny, it can happen. A buddy of mine was able to get his to fit on his with a little bit of bending the exhaust pipes around to clear it.
chepsk8
Founding Member
When I put the AOD in Chepie, I used the factory manifolds, and had to have a custom system bent, as the AOD is much wider than the C-4.
geostang351
Member
My 68 has a 351W with long tube headers and they just barley clear. With a 289 and the fact that the heads/block will be closer from exhaust port to exhaust port (left side to right side), I forsee a problem (just a thought, but not actual experience)
12sec67
Active Member
The clearance issue is going to be by the "bellhousing" where the torque converter lives. I also have a 351W in front of my AOD, but I had tons of room, I used Hedmann Elite Swap units. Since I have a vert I do have issues with ehxaust clearance, but the problem is near the tailshaft of the AOD where the convertible bracinig is. Having dual 2.5-inch tubes and a 3-inch driveshaft is the reason, and although an H-pipe is possible there's no way to get an X on there.
The 351W headers might solve the problem with the 289/302, but even if they do they'll probably hang lower than you'd like.
The 351W headers might solve the problem with the 289/302, but even if they do they'll probably hang lower than you'd like.
12sec67
Active Member
Edbert said:
i have 351w headers, 2 1/2" exhaust with an X-pipe and a 3" driveshaft and a driveshaft safety loop. its tight but it all fits
if you'd like i can take a pic... let me know
redhotcomet
New Member
I used hedman part #88300, in my Comet. These hedders are for a 289-302/C$ in a 64-73 mustang. However, the collectors would not clear the extra width of the AOD, so there was some modification needed.
Here is a picture of the mods I had to do to them. I cut the collector off just past the tubes, and re-welded them back on angled off to the outside of the car. However, this caused problems with a shifter linkage and it took some thinkin to fab one that worked.
<img src='http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/929046/headercloseup.JPG' width=864 height=648 >
Here is a picture of them installed after the mods.
<img src='http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/929046/underside-headers.JPG' width=639 height=480 >
But in the end, they ended up working fairly well, and they don't hang too low.
Here is a picture of the mods I had to do to them. I cut the collector off just past the tubes, and re-welded them back on angled off to the outside of the car. However, this caused problems with a shifter linkage and it took some thinkin to fab one that worked.
<img src='http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/929046/headercloseup.JPG' width=864 height=648 >
Here is a picture of them installed after the mods.
<img src='http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/929046/underside-headers.JPG' width=639 height=480 >
But in the end, they ended up working fairly well, and they don't hang too low.
12sec67
Active Member
Yeah, but coupes and fastbacks have more room under there. This is an old picture but just look what awaits my muffler-dude:12sec67 said:i have 351w headers, 2 1/2" exhaust with an X-pipe and a 3" driveshaft and a driveshaft safety loop. its tight but it all fits
That picture still has the factory driveshaft in it so there's even less room.
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12sec67
Active Member
he also has a 351w ... i/m posting pics here in a minute.
sorry- its no where near as clean as edbert's
sorry- its no where near as clean as edbert's
12sec67
Active Member
here it is ... like i said -not too pretty.
the dang aftermarket harmonic balancer staring coming forward and let oil get everywhere. i realized when i was putting on my driveshaft safety loop- as you can see its the only thing clean under the car. even my nice aluminum driveshaft has hand prints on it.
BTW edbert take a look at how close the bolts are for the loop are to the driveshaft 1/4" each side clearance with the 3" driveshaft.
the dang aftermarket harmonic balancer staring coming forward and let oil get everywhere. i realized when i was putting on my driveshaft safety loop- as you can see its the only thing clean under the car. even my nice aluminum driveshaft has hand prints on it.
BTW edbert take a look at how close the bolts are for the loop are to the driveshaft 1/4" each side clearance with the 3" driveshaft.
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geostang351
Member
12sec67
Active Member
if the car sat at normal ride hieght there wouldn't be any problems. the only scraping that happens is when i go into the driveway at my house.
i'll have to take a pic of ground clearance from the side view for you guys.
i'll have to take a pic of ground clearance from the side view for you guys.
The problem with the hooker comps is not clearing the bell housing but the passenger side at the transmission pan. The header flange with the three bolts needs to be ground down a little. I'm working all week so I can't really get you any pictures. I put a long wittled down 2x4 in the collector and tried to bend mine out some, don't know if it moved at all, but I do have hooker comps with an AOD in a 65 fastback. I even have the TrickFlow cast pan that is a little thicker that stock. They will fit with the grinding but they are close. I can still remove the transmission pan and I have no leaks.
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