So if it's an 84 trans, have you identified the other parts?
1986 was a transition year for the t-5 driveline. Before that was the 10" clutch, smaller bell housing and clutch setup and weaker transmission, the wiring for the trans is slightly different and the pedal clutch assembly is a little different as well.
You def want to go throug the part numbers on some of the other stuff to ID what you have because if it's a 10" setup with the smaller bell, you might find yourself restricted when choosing a performance clutch. You perhaps should try to get an 86+ 10.5" setup.
I've seen low rating t5's put up with 450rwhp and good ones break at 300rwhp. Alot is how you drive it and the tires. I would still use drag radials (can't remember the last time i drove on a non drag radial), but i just wouldn't power shift.
The only reason I say don't use drag radials is because I broke 3rd gear on a wc t-5 and a g force t-5...the car had drag radials but I never power shifted the car. Before the drag radials never had this 3rd gear problem. Maybe it was the trans case flexing, both these transmissions were in the same case. I dunno, I wanna put drag radials on my new one just because they come in 275's for my 15" welds. But I don't really want to break third gear again. Maybe I just had bad luck. I dunno.
i got all the stuff pulled from the same car. it was not a 4 eye. i believe it was a 90. but ill verify the numbers the pedals are all im worried about.
On the tail shaft of the transmission, there will be a stamped aluminum tag. The tag will have a number on it that you can cross reference to the chart below. There is no other way to find out what type of T5 it is without disassembling it. All the rest of the numbers on the outside of the T5 case are part numbers which are not unique to any particular T5 model.
Remember that 94 - 97 T5's have a longer input shaft (about 11/16” longer) and can only be used with a 94-95 bell housing unless you modify or replace the input shaft.
T5's used with a 4 cylinder have a 3.93 first gear, reduced torque ratings and an input shaft pilot diameter that is smaller that the T5 used for V6 & V8 engines. The pilot diameter is .59" compared to the .668" used on V6 & V8 T5's. It requires a different pilot bearing to be used with a V6 or V8. The pilot bearing you need is for a Ford Ranger diesel from AutoZone part #14672
I don't know how you feel about the DYI thing when it comes to gears, some people don't like the idea of working on transmissions. If the DYI transmission fix idea isn't something that you would rather leave to someone else, here are some resources:
A T5 rebuild kit with syncros, bearings and other small parts costs about $160. It does not include any gears or shafts.
http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/ also has a video on how to rebuild your T5 or Tremec. It costs about $20, and is worth every penny of it.
I did a Tremec 3550 rebuild, and it wasn't that difficult. The video was an immense help, and I would recommend viewing it. At $20, it will give you an opportunity to look and decide for yourself if you think that it is something you want to try to do.
T5 Shim kits – best product I have seen in a while… http://www.5speeds.com/t5/shims.html
“The Peel ‘n Place T5 World Class shim kit makes shimming T5 counter gear and main drive gears very easy.”
good to know thanks j. im going to have my dad help me rebuild it. he has done a few and says its pretty straight forward. im sure that its from a 84 the input shaft is .67 used my mic on it. i did use the search function before i posted my info. was just tryin to get some opinions.
on the upside ive taken this as an opportunity to tear out the engine and really clean up the engine bay. fresh paint, move battery to the trunk. should look much cleaner.
got the aod out today. idk how but i cracked the trans case. probably why it gave up the ghost. it came out easy so im sure i didnt crack it during removal.