Drivetrain AOD install - issue lining up TC studs to Flexplate holes

[notch351w]

Dropping in a new engine in my fox with the AOD still in. Is there any trick aligning the torque convert and flexplate? No hole in the bottom of the bellhousing to get at the TC to spin it. Unless the flexplate and TC are perfectly aligned before hand, how is it even possible to get them together? Any tricks to move the TC?

Makes it worse is it's basically a bone dry engine since it's rebuilt, so it's verry tough to spin the crank to move the flexplate. Will I have to remove the trans as well and just bolt up together and drop in?

 

[General karthief]

TC bolts a accessible through the starter opening but you gotta rotate the engine, sorry.

 

[slow84lx]

With the AOD you should be able to access the torque convertor bolts along the lower area of the flexplate where the dust cover goes. One bolt at a time. You should also be able to move the TC / flexplate by hand or with a pry bar enough to get the studs positioned in the flexplate holes.

Don't forget to push the torque convertor in and while rotating until it clicks 3 times. If you did not do this and the engine is already in then the torque convertor is likely too far out and binding preventing you from moving it to align the TC bolts.

I've had good luck pulling / installing the engine / transmission together in multiple vehicles. It makes it a lot easier on an old man to get the engine & transmission aligned and bolted together. Raise the rear end of the car if you try this.

 

[notch351w]

Just an update, if anyone runs into the same issue I had. I was able to get them in and aligned properly. Was a PITA, basically trial and error of...

1. Eyeball the holes to the studs with the engine out of the trans. Have engine out and away enough from trans you can spin the TC, so like 6 inches or so.
2. Lower the engine in and get the engine Bellhousing (BH) stud thing through at least one of the BH holes (one on each side, so can just do 1).
3. Start bolting up the BH onto the engine, don't tighten then all the way down and you don't need to do all of them. Keep an eye on an exposed flexplate hole and TC stud through the lower BH opening (or starter area)
4. The goal is to press the engine + trans together to see if the stud start popping through the hole.
5. If the stud starts peaking through the hole while you continue to tighten down the BH bolts, then you've survived and made it through.
6. If the stud isn't popping through, see pic attached , and you can see is not aligned. Then get a good idea how much you need to move it and start removing the BH bolts and pop the engine off the trans, adjust TC as needed, then start from 1.

A few tips. Get a 5/8ths ratcheting wrench if you don't have one. Will save time bolting on and off the BH bolts. The lower ones can use extensions and a swivel to get from under.

 

[slow84lx]

Glad that you got it in.

Prior to installation did you press in on the TC (toward the rear) while rotating the TC until you got 3 clicks from it? This should seat the TC just over an inch deep into the bell housing and onto the front pump.

This video shows the procedure. Watch from 3 minutes in.


View: https://youtu.be/9-8eiLLv_kc?si=tJE-F4fV7lCoqneQ


The AOD is a finicky beast, but dependable when done right. It is very easy to damage the front pump & seal during install if the TC is not installed as outlined.

 

[notch351w]

Glad that you got it in.

Prior to installation did you press in on the TC (toward the rear) while rotating the TC until you got 3 clicks from it? This should seat the TC just over an inch deep into the bell housing and onto the front pump.

This video shows the procedure. Watch from 3 minutes in.


The AOD is a finicky beast, but dependable when done right. It is very easy to damage the front pump & seal during install if the TC is not installed as outlined.

Thanks, will probably pull again in a year or two for a new TC. It was a stock TC, I basically pulled the old rusted 302 (barn find stang) and dropped in a rebuilt 351W. I left the TC as-is once the 302 was pulled. Noticed it was deep in past the flush line with the BH so didn't even mess with it.

Also a note, pulling the originally TC bolts was the worst experience I've had this summer. Made of soft aluminum like putty, every single one rounded off to a circle. 30-40 mins with a chisle and dremel each (4 total) to remove without messing with the stud. Now just have to find the correct thread size TC nuts because the ones I bought (3/8-16) don't fit. Assuming the should be fine thread or something.

 

[General karthief]

If I remember correctly,they are fine thread

 

[slow84lx]

I tossed a handful of them recently when I hauled an AOD to the core buyer.

I don't remember the thread size / pitch but they sure are easy to round off.

 

[notch351w]

If I remember correctly,they are fine thread

Yep fine thread. 3/8-24 (NOT 3/8-16). Can do the flange or the flange serrated ones you can find at ACE or other hardware stores. Plus they'll be steel grade 5 instead of putty. Bought em and got the TC + flexplate bolted up perfect.

Now onto figuring out why the driver side BBK shorty header won't fit/line up with the mid pipe (stock y-pipe from 85) flange.

 

[Noobz347]

They should be Grade 8 and not grade 5.

 

[85GTStangGuy]

Now onto figuring out why the driver side BBK shorty header won't fit/line up with the mid pipe (stock y-pipe from 85) flange.

It is not designed to mate up to the '85 y-pipe (specifically the driver's side, due to the heat riser valve it had). The BBK (and other shortys too) are only made to bolt up to the 86-93 h-pipe.

 

[Noobz347]

Not made of Chinesium:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ape-10017

 

[notch351w]

It is not designed to mate up to the '85 y-pipe (specifically the driver's side, due to the heat riser valve it had). The BBK (and other shortys too) are only made to bolt up to the 86-93 h-pipe.

So surprisingly they mated up after some effort (I removed the riser valve). These are 351W swap BBK shorty's on an 85 GT w/ AOD and solid drop motor mounts from LMR. Seems like 85 there is some conflicting info on random stuff including this version having only 1 fuel pump (in-tank) and as reported not 2 - additional as an inline. So maybe there's a difference, or the drop mounts helped idk.

The flanges are tightened up pretty much to the top of the thread, so there could be a leak once it gets running but looks fine. I just loosened the exhaust u bolts, used some wood to wedge the y-pipe section down where it slides under the trans to the passenger side. This was just the angle it needed to slide the studs into the y-pipe flange. One of the studs was off, not lining up by 1/2" and moving that y-pipe just a little lined up it.