AOD problem anyone with experience?

pdiddy1 · Jun 22, 2020

Is that normal for the outer shaft to move that much?

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRB2UUmYNbQ

I have AOD 89 casting with vibration problem in 3rd gear around 1800rpms (32mph or more), it goes away instantly when transmission goes in OD(4th).

What i tried so far:

Balancing driveshaft
new TC
New tailshaft bushing
I have correct flexplate 28oz (its 289 engine)

LX Dave · Jun 22, 2020

I've seen them with just a little bit of play but never that much. Looks like it's time to tear into it.

Stang_1973 · Jun 22, 2020

How strong is that 289? those AODs a pretty vulnerable in stock form. I broke a shaft just trying to pass somebody once. Im assuming you are still lockup TC?

the guy who fixed my AOD way back when once told me that the shaft can even just twist at the ends.

these guys were very helpful as well when i built my AOD. found everything i needed. If you haveto rebuild it, might as well make is stronger.

PATC Ford Transmissions, C6, AOD, 4R70W, 4R100, 5R110W and others

PATC Ford Performance Transmissions, C4, C6, AOD, 4R70W, E4OD, 4R100, 5R110W, 6R80 and others. PATC builds Ford performance transmissions in many levels.

transmissioncenter.net

pdiddy1 · Jun 22, 2020

LX Dave said:
I've seen them with just a little bit of play but never that much. Looks like it's time to tear into it.

Would it be possible that its just the stator bushing(i think AOD has just one rear stator bushing ) ? thanks

pdiddy1 · Jun 22, 2020

Stang_1973 said:
How strong is that 289? those AODs a pretty vulnerable in stock form. I broke a shaft just trying to pass somebody once. Im assuming you are still lockup TC?

the guy who fixed my AOD way back when once told me that the shaft can even just twist at the ends.

these guys were very helpful as well when i built my AOD. found everything i needed. If you haveto rebuild it, might as well make is stronger.

PATC Ford Transmissions, C6, AOD, 4R70W, 4R100, 5R110W and others

PATC Ford Performance Transmissions, C4, C6, AOD, 4R70W, E4OD, 4R100, 5R110W, 6R80 and others. PATC builds Ford performance transmissions in many levels.

transmissioncenter.net

It is stock 289 so not much power, the small inner shaft looks good. The AOD works good, beside the vibrations that i mentioned, with 3.70 rear-end I hit 70mph at 2200RPMs....I had c4 before and it was not fun with speeds over 50mph.
What upgrades would be good if i need to open the AOD?
- Reverse sun shell (94-95)?
- Reverse drum from any 4R70W?
- mechanical diode from 98+ 4R70W transmisson?
- intermediate pressure plate from 98+ 4R70W transmission? ...thanks

Stang_1973 · Jun 22, 2020

well i was convinced Non lock up was the way to go and i believe we did single piece input shaft, which right now is probably still overkill for me but I was told by several people that was the only surefire way to make it near break proof. the only other lock up that can take high HP is electronically controlled. thats what i was told anyway. but i upgraded my valvebody to a lentech. it increases oil pressure throughout so you dont have have worry about burning out a gear and you can drive the car like a manual safely. as for the other stuff it was all direct replacement stuff, i dont remember taking stuff from other models. just remember getting better quality rebuild kit, better OD band, larger servo, this was like 10+ years ago. I just remember my Tranny guy at that time telling me what i needed, then spoke to PATC and put together a "packge" of stuff. With the valve body and stuff we did get, i remember my tranny guy saying it could handle upwards if 500 HP. my main mechanic said in his opinon it could take probably closer to 600-650. Im no where neat that but im working that way.

but if your not looking to make high HP anytime soon, at least probabl;y not over 300, and if your gunna have to rebuild anyway, its not much more for a better rebuild kit. I remember the guys over at PATC were very knowledgeable and i beleive they even have an in house project car that is a "happy balance" for a tough reliable AOD in a classic mustang. its a lock up hardned input shaft setup i believe and it has a 289 or 302. id call them up and see what they think.

sorry if i wasnt much help in that regard.

Mr.Kelley · Jun 22, 2020

It looks like the pump to input shaft bushing is toast. No there should not be that much play. Have you run the car up to speed on a lift to find the vibration. Hate to go through all that trouble with the tranny and still have a vibration when its back together. By the time you get all the 4R70W guts to beef up the AOD you might as well just get a 4R70W and buy a controller.

pdiddy1 · Jun 22, 2020

Mr.Kelley said:
It looks like the pump to input shaft bushing is toast. No there should not be that much play. Have you run the car up to speed on a lift to find the vibration. Hate to go through all that trouble with the tranny and still have a vibration when its back together. By the time you get all the 4R70W guts to beef up the AOD you might as well just get a 4R70W and buy a controller.

Thanks Mr.Kelley....is that the bushing in the attached picture(red circle)? Stator(Rear) bushing i think part number is "76037".... so there is no vibrations when I'm in "P" or "N" and rev it up to 4000rpms, and no vibrations in "OD". I get vibrations just in 3rd at around 32mph or higher. So far i have not tested it on a lift.

Mr.Kelley · Jun 23, 2020

That would be 036 & 037 There are probably other bad things going on if it's vibrating. Your looking at tearing it apart and replacing some hard parts. I was in the same boat. I had just rebuilt my stock AOD adjusted the TV cable had good pressures and took a test drive. Everything worked great had nice firm shifts when I expected them. When I got back to the yard I had no reverse (I think I got the front 1 way clutch in backwards) I pulled it back out and the pan was full of silver flake. My converter is eating itself. My thoughts were to get the 4R70W guts to beef mine up, get a new converter and rebuild it again. That route depending on the converter was going to runaround $600 with me doing all the work. I traded my old C4 for a 4R70W from a wrecked 70k mile 94 Mustang. The controller and tranny harness is a little over $600 but now I can tune the shifts on the fly. I still have my AOD in the car If your near San Diego and can wait a little while it's yours for the asking.

pdiddy1 · Jun 23, 2020

For now ill follow you, Mr.Kelley, and try to save the AOD by replacing the stator bushing 037. I was looking on the parts listing and it seems to me that the 036 is for AODE and 4r70w, but I might be wrong. The order was placed so I hope it will be here this week and I can mess with transmission this weekend. I was thinking about 4r70w but the controller price scared me away. Thanks for the help...ill post the progress.

Mr.Kelley · Jun 23, 2020

Here's the full pages. Looking at the video I'd bet the damage goes deeper than a couple of bushings. It looks like there is also a lot of end play. The shaft your wiggling in the video is the forward drum in the second picture, it houses the reverse clutch, and the overdrive band clamps on the outer surface of it. that tha

Mr.Kelley · Jun 23, 2020

Continued. So the forward drum spins in all forward gears except OD. If that play was your only problem you'd have the vibration in 1-3 and maybe smooth out in OD.

pdiddy1 · Jun 24, 2020

Thank you for the pictures....I have been draining the oil since yesterday so after work ill try to pull the AOD out and start the disassembly.

Mr.Kelley · Jun 24, 2020

Transmission Bench on youtube has a really good series on the AODE/4R70W which is all pretty much the same as your AOD as far as teardown and rebuilding goes.

Transmission Bench

www.youtube.com

I found it very helpful.

markinms · Jun 27, 2020

Stang_1973 said:
well i was convinced Non lock up was the way to go and i believe we did single piece input shaft, which right now is probably still overkill for me but I was told by several people that was the only surefire way to make it near break proof. the only other lock up that can take high HP is electronically controlled. thats what i was told anyway. but i upgraded my valvebody to a lentech. it increases oil pressure throughout so you dont have have worry about burning out a gear and you can drive the car like a manual safely. as for the other stuff it was all direct replacement stuff, i dont remember taking stuff from other models. just remember getting better quality rebuild kit, better OD band, larger servo, this was like 10+ years ago. I just remember my Tranny guy at that time telling me what i needed, then spoke to PATC and put together a "packge" of stuff. With the valve body and stuff we did get, i remember my tranny guy saying it could handle upwards if 500 HP. my main mechanic said in his opinon it could take probably closer to 600-650. Im no where neat that but im working that way.

but if your not looking to make high HP anytime soon, at least probabl;y not over 300, and if your gunna have to rebuild anyway, its not much more for a better rebuild kit. I remember the guys over at PATC were very knowledgeable and i beleive they even have an in house project car that is a "happy balance" for a tough reliable AOD in a classic mustang. its a lock up hardned input shaft setup i believe and it has a 289 or 302. id call them up and see what they think.

sorry if i wasnt much help in that regard.

Are you happy with the Lentech Valve Body? Shift improvements? Reliability? I'm waiting for mine to arrive any day now.
Mark

pdiddy1 · Jun 27, 2020

Mr.Kelley said:
Continued. So the forward drum spins in all forward gears except OD. If that play was your only problem you'd have the vibration in 1-3 and maybe smooth out in OD.

Mr.Kelly, AOD is out and slowly taking it apart...the stator bushing did not look bad. Here is first issue, or maybe it is normal:
That sound is not present while driving the car.

Stang_1973 · Jun 29, 2020

markinms said:
Are you happy with the Lentech Valve Body? Shift improvements? Reliability? I'm waiting for mine to arrive any day now.
Mark

I frekin love it!!!!! I have the one where you can switch off the O/D. i drive it like that on the small streets and turn it back on while on the highway. when theres alot of traffic stop and go i leave it in D. but when you have space i like to drive it manual. and for the "fun" ill hold my shifts to 5K if i dont start spinning too bad. its alot of fun! never had any issues with the transmission since that and it was like 10 yrs ago.

Mr.Kelley · Jun 29, 2020

That is one of two 1 way clutches, AKA overrunning clutch or Diode, Does the tranny make that noise when the car is running? If so which gears what, what speed. I'm getting to the edges of my experience and as a disclaimer I most admit I'm not an expert just have some recent experience with rebuilding an AOD.

markinms · Jun 30, 2020

Stang_1973 said:
I frekin love it!!!!! I have the one where you can switch off the O/D. i drive it like that on the small streets and turn it back on while on the highway. when theres alot of traffic stop and go i leave it in D. but when you have space i like to drive it manual. and for the "fun" ill hold my shifts to 5K if i dont start spinning too bad. its alot of fun! never had any issues with the transmission since that and it was like 10 yrs ago.

Love the enthusiasm! Mine arrived yesterday and will install this weekend. Excited!
Mark

pdiddy1 · Jul 1, 2020

I have the AOD transmission apart...Anyone has recommendation for clutches for street application?

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