Looking for a certified ford technician that has time to discuss ongoing CEL with my 2015 Mustang GT S550. Please send me a message, to much detail to post here & need honest expert opinion. Thank you in advance
Looking for the process ford dealerships take regarding CEL cod p0024.. B-camshaft timing over advanced. I got 10’ down the dealership drive & got the same code . I know what the code means but ford tells me their are steps to take(trial & error in a non mechanics opinion) to find & replace the correct part. Bad oil, sylenoids, cam phasers. And there is TSB ( well it’s actually an SSM) SSM48423 regarding this issue with the 2015 S550
Yeah the dreaded debri issue. There are a bunch of steps including changing oil and cycling the solenoids to try and clear them out. Do you have the tick also ?
We've had a couple cars that ended up needing engines. This was due to premature timing chain wear and debri. I believe the SSM has to do with casting material not being completely cleared.
A bunch of issues can set that same code. That's why they go through such a long process. I've seen cheap oil filters cause all types of timing codes so it's a process.
Another issue ( if it's being covered under a warranty ) is that the warranty companies want an attempted fix to happen at least 3 times before engine replacement....or they want a complete tear down and analysis.
If it were me doing the diag I'd change oil and filter first with a BG engine cleaning additive. ( only if it looked like the oil is leaving deposits ) .
Clear codes...Test drive and verify condition.
Next, ( if code sets or scanner shows camshaft variable timing not working ) I would chang out the solenoid for that camshaft. The valve cover has to be removed to do this.
If issue still exists it's time for solenoids, phasers, timing chain, guides, tensioners, etc.
If I'm pulling the timing cover it's best to replace everything. If the one is replaced another may fail. Most warranty companies will only replace the one that is verified failed. The chain also may not be covered under an extended warranty for this situation.
If you have the tick and this does not fix it you will probably need an engine. The sad thing about deposits is that you really can't tell how bad it is unless you do a full tear down and check the bearing surfaces. The dealer will do this if enough complaint is made if under manufacturers warranty. If no warranty then you would be stuck with the tear down bill whether they find anything or not. If you have an extended warranty and they tear it down and everything is ok you'll still have the tear down and reassembly bill.
Yeah the dreaded debri issue. There are a bunch of steps including changing oil and cycling the solenoids to try and clear them out. Do you have the tick also ?
We've had a couple cars that ended up needing engines. This was due to premature timing chain wear and debri. I believe the SSM has to do with casting material not being completely cleared.
A bunch of issues can set that same code. That's why they go through such a long process. I've seen cheap oil filters cause all types of timing codes so it's a process.
Another issue ( if it's being covered under a warranty ) is that the warranty companies want an attempted fix to happen at least 3 times before engine replacement....or they want a complete tear down and analysis.
If it were me doing the diag I'd change oil and filter first with a BG engine cleaning additive. ( only if it looked like the oil is leaving deposits ) .
Clear codes...Test drive and verify condition.
Next, ( if code sets or scanner shows camshaft variable timing not working ) I would chang out the solenoid for that camshaft. The valve cover has to be removed to do this.
If issue still exists it's time for solenoids, phasers, timing chain, guides, tensioners, etc.
If I'm pulling the timing cover it's best to replace everything. If the one is replaced another may fail. Most warranty companies will only replace the one that is verified failed. The chain also may not be covered under an extended warranty for this situation.
If you have the tick and this does not fix it you will probably need an engine. The sad thing about deposits is that you really can't tell how bad it is unless you do a full tear down and check the bearing surfaces. The dealer will do this if enough complaint is made if under manufacturers warranty. If no warranty then you would be stuck with the tear down bill whether they find anything or not. If you have an extended warranty and they tear it down and everything is ok you'll still have the tear down and reassembly bill.
Thank you for all the information. So far they cleared the code & drove it. I picked it up & light came back on.
Today I am at the dealership for them to do the oil & filter change, reset code & see if it comes back. Service mgr said they cycled the sylenoids before clearing codes the 1st time.