auto paint gun choices

[webshot]

I am just about ready to start my paint my own car project I posted about a whiel ago.

But....I just want to make sure I get what I need and best bang for buck

Here are the few spray guns I am looking at.

http://item.express.ebay.com/DeVILB...0QQitemZ190135361775QQihZ009QQcmdZExpressItem



http://item.express.ebay.com/SHARPE...0QQitemZ120087958674QQihZ002QQcmdZExpressItem



http://item.express.ebay.com/DEVILB...0QQitemZ230163107814QQihZ013QQcmdZExpressItem


I have already got my stands and a DA sander.

Just to rehash - this is for a mustang GT 88
So far I have a 33 gallon 2hp craftsman AC (oil less)
DA sander
Grinder (doubt Ill need it)

I am considering painting the car silver. I want to try to get ambitious and do like silver with a blueish pearl. I am still researching primers, fillers and paints. AS far as what is best for what situations. But I must admit it is getting rather confusing. But I will forge on. If anyone has any input of other materials feel free to add-on. But mainly want opinions on my sprayer choice.

 

[Roland69]

devilbiss is one of the best imo

 

[87foxstang]

devilbiss FTW...they're one of the best brands out there

 

[importhater5.0]

1)if you never sprayed b4, stay away from pearls, and even metallics. IF metallics or pearls are not sprayed correctly you will get striping and blotching. 2)Any of those spray guns will work fine, i have used Devilbiss and Sharpe, and they work fine....i now have SataJet RPs, but they are about $600 a pop, but i spray a lot of cars and motorcycles.3) if you do decide to go metallic, you have to really watch your spray pattern, and technique. For instance, you dont want to "panel paint" the car, meaning that you paint the fender, then move back to the door, then back to the quarter etc. If you spray candies, pearls, or metallics, you need to "walk the car". Here is the technique you should use.......split the car in half from front to back, start on the roof in the MIDDLE and work towards you going from the windshield to the back glass or vice versa. Work down the A pillar and then to the sail panel. Next hit the hood and decklid using the same technique as the roof, from the middle toward you. Next you get to "walk the car", start at the back or front and you are gonna go the entire length of the vehicle from the fender to the end of the quarter in one pass and you continue this from the top down to the rockers, then you can hit the front end bumper cover and rear and proceed to the other side of the car and start from the middle of the roof again, (always using 75% overlap with your gun strokes) and continue in the same order, as the previous side. Panel painting like many people do causes blotching and buildup of metallics on the edges of panels due to excessive paint. Also, another big mistake people make is painting the doors, hood, or whatever off the car and NOT in the position it is hung on the vehicle. I.E., if you spray the doors off the car.....hang them as if they are on the car, if you would lay it flat and paint it, when you bolt it together the door will look "off" from the rest of the car because the paint and metallics lay different than say, your quarter panel. That can be a disaster! As far as primers etc. Stay away from Laquer primer, its garbage. Stay with a good Epoxy. If i strip a car to bare metal..i will go with a self etching primer first to prevent any rust. THen you go to a good Epoxy High Build Primer for block sanding etc. Once all your bodywork is done and the car is ready for paint, shoot a coat of Epoxy Sealer on the car. THis keeps all bodywork, fillers, fiberglass, solvents etc from popping through the new paintjob. If the car just needs a new paint job and doesnt have to be stripped, ill scuff the whole car down, do the bodywork where needed(filler etc) and just use Epoxy Primer on the car and there is no need for a Self Etching Primer. ANd i will still shoot the car in sealer before i lay the base coat. Make sure whatever you go with(primers) have a catalyst(hardener). It will be a 3 part primer, you will have the Primer, the Reducer, and the Cayalyst or Hardener. THis ensures durability, no bleed through, and also corrosion resistance. Laquers primer that you can buy at auto part stores is a 2 part primer. You get the Primer, and then you add Laquer Thinner, its basically a gallon of "spray bomb" primer. No corrosion resistance, and you can get bleed through into your paint. If you have any rust spots and you dont weld them w/ new metal, use Kitty Hair Figerglass filler for a waterproof and permanent fix to pinholes etc. I like Evercoat brand body fillers and fiberglass, they are really good quality. Now for sanding down the car before paint, (metallics i usually do final sanding with 600 grit...if you go to course with metallics, the metallic will sit in the sand scratches and stick out like a sore thumb! Solid paints, you can go with 400 grit. Hmmm.......i covered alot, but i know im forgetting a lot too, if you need anymore info, lemme know!

 

[webshot]

importhater, thanks man for the info. I am bookmarking all info received.

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

I paint cars too. Not for a living, but for a hobby. I usually do 3-4 jobs a year, and other small jobs too.

He covered everything you need to know. He hit all points very well. I will also second him on the metallic paint. I would recommend using a solid color to be honest with you.

I also will second buying a good epoxy primer too. Laquer primer is junk, it is not thick, it does not build, it is not cured with hardner, and it will shrink on you after your job is completed. You will have sand scratches all over your body work and you will go nuts!! Spend the extra money!!

I also second the sealer. I have painted 11 Mustangs total. I never even heard of a sealer until last year. I used it on the last 3 cars before I painted....WOW No shrinkage at all...and the paint laid down so much better.

The only thing I want to add that I think he missed (not that he doesn't know this)...is to make sure you mix and strain everything. Especially the primers and the sealers. They sit on the shelf for a long time and everything settles at the bottom. Mix it well, in fact have the paint store put it on their shaker before you use it. I would still mix it when you get back to the shop. If you don't mix it well you won't get the full potential of the product. IF you don't strain it, little bits will clog the tip of the gun causing poor spray patterns, and some bit may even go into your car. I did this with sealer before!! I got lucky and was able to wet sand those spots, but you are not suppose to. The directions said to spray let it sit, then paint it. Luckily it did not cause me any problems with the paint job, just took me longer to get the job done.

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

BTW....the first gun you had there...the 129.99 one...that one is what I would buy. I think my DB gun was about that price and it works great still. There is no need to spend more than that if you will only use it once in a while. Now if I painted for a living I would have one of those 600 guns on TV!!!!

 

[ttop88]

ll info so far is good. As for materials I use rage filler. It shrinks less than the others and has less pin holes. It also sands easier imo. A good set of sanding block is your best friend. Get the $50 set of durablocks. You can get them from innate dot com. They also have pretty good prices on descent sand paper. Silver is a tough color. I would go to at least 600grit and probably 800 if it is a coarse flake. As for spraying it if silver is what you want I would suggest you have a pro shoot it for you. For what you will have in a gun and materials to have it done the second time around you could of payed a pro to shoot it for you. As for the gun the $129.99 gun is your best bet.

 

[webshot]

Thanks for the advice. I think that so far is the biggest hurdle is buying the right stuff. I havent found a good auto paint supply by my house yet so I have to depend on you guys and whatever I found on the net. I do appreciate all the advice. Like said, I will chronicle my journey and hopefully serve as inspiration and know how for anyone else doing this. Gonna get my garage setup this weekend (hangin plastic and cleaning up and such.) Then look to start soon after that.

One question that I keep getting mixed reviews on is; paint the car in pieces (removing panels) or leaving everything on. Which is the preferred route. I know I am new to this, but I want to do it right not necessarily the easy out way. (I love a challenge)

Also someone mentioned I think never use the bondo you can get from like Autozone, is that true and if so what do you propose?

 

[Flying Dutchman]

Check out www.autobody101.com this may help

 

[ttop88]

View attachment 349561

 

[webshot]

wow thanks for that link

 

[importhater5.0]

yea i also use Rage, its a great product! Perks on adding the point about straining your primers etc! Thats a big area a lot of amateurs skip over, can cause lots of issues. Yea and there is no need for a $600 spray gun if you are only doing some painting for yourself or the occasional paintjob......i only bought them cause i got them at cost, but i actually used a $150 Devilbiss for years and it worked good too. Bodywork can get confusing b/c everyone has their own tricks and ways of doing things, and i think the funniest part is that most people that will give you advice dont have a dam clue what they are doing. I have spent more time grinding, cutting, and sandblasting out shotty bodywork, its unreal what people do. But all the guys who have posted above definately seem knowledgable, thumbs up to everyone!

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

I will agree to that!! As far as the body work goes...everybody does have different ways and tricks. Hopefully you don't have too much to do, but if so....Just make sure you block and prime everything. There is no limit to how many times you can do this...the more the better because it will be flat as a peice of glass. Just make sure you let the primer dry to prevent solvent pop later on. You don't want to rush blocking and priming...it is key to a good job.

 

[Notchabovechevy]

I'm a painter aswell and I agree with importhater5.0 I would personally suggest the sharpe finex with the 1.3 tip hvlp they are great guns for the price. Also consider house of color clear/topcoat it is competitavly priced with ppg of dupont, but is garanteed up to 6 coats without busting or wrinkling. lots of material for years of buffing and polishing. It will also make it look like a really deep 3d look like you could stick your hand 8in into it.:nice

 

[importhater5.0]

Yea House of Kolor has awesome products, always had great results! I have to agree on that